Kennedy Power hacksaw

I have a Kennedy 60?(small one) Power hacksaw that is missing the oil damper parts, the two rods, disc and the valve plate.

Could any supply some pictures and dimensions of the missing parts ie length of rods, size of disc, number and size of holes in disc?

Thanks

Ken

Ken,

If you have a look in the recent thread "Donkey (Mechanical Hacksaw to everyone else)" you will see a link to some pics of the Kennedy dashpot in my albums, and some discussion of it.

The Album is at **LINK**

If you need more precise details, send me a pm with your email address.

Phil

Ken

Plunger is .258" dia. x .511" thick. The underside of plunger has a circular piece .006" shim held in place by a bolt / stud. The two "L" shaped rods are made from .250" dia. rod. The short one sticks out from the top of the plunger by 3.625" and the longer by 4.3125". The "L" shaped short bent bits are 1.625" and 1.250".

Rik

Thank you.

I can see what is missing.

Ken

Ken,

I have sent you a PM.

Eric

HI, Sorry for resurrecting an old topic however as a newbie to this site, I have just purchased a Kennedy 3-5 Mobile Power Saw which I think is a Kennedy 90. I have bought some literature off lathes.co.uk but these are not very helping in working out what is missing and what I need to replace it.

I have an identical problem to Ken's. I have no damper pot other than the steel resevoir, I am not sure if there is an automatic switch off function, but if there is, it is missing, there is no depth gauge and there is a fixed rod missing between the damper pot linkage and a round steel eyelet at the end of the hacksaw arm distal to the saw.

I am very keen to restore this brilliant machine if anyone is able to help with drawings, photos and suggestions, I would be very grateful. I don't have the skills to make parts but keen to get them made if someone was interested.

Many thanks in advance

Jez

Jez,

it was a 3.5 before it became the 90.

Do you have the metal box type on/off switch and does the red knob on the arm waggle a rod that allows you to lock the arm up..

Thanks Dave,

there is no metal box on / off switch - it is a plastic switch on the side of the electric motor housing. There is no locking mechanism for the arm.

jez

Jez,

You need to post some photos, create an album on here and used the camera button. The auto on/off switch is shown on the lathes site for the hoover motor in the second colour photo. It needn't be that fancy.

The saw is meant to have a spring to aid pulling down the bow, but without the spring you don't really need the dashpot on the 90.

Thanks Dave,

On off switch issue sorted. I have uploaded a few photos to my album. You can see the top rod is missing and I am not sure what it is or where it attached to from the steel ring.

The saw works fine without a dash pot, would you suggest leaving alone?

Jez

if you run that link again and look at the photos of the little 60 you'll see a 1/2 rod that pivots on a screw, theres nothing to stop you working it directly.

it's the screw that you have just where the handle mounts, if you pull the rod forward it lodges on that step below and holds the arm up. Push the rod back and the arm can lower.

If it cuts OK (on the pull stroke) leave it

Edited By Dave Halford on 08/05/2021 19:00:54

Edited By Dave Halford on 08/05/2021 19:05:10

Thank you. So helpful. Do you have any photos showing the linkage at the T bar handle end? There is not much for me to work off on mine and every photo I see has the connection slightly obscured.

First colour photo on that link, all you need is a lump of 1/2" rod or metal conduit tube drilled for the allen headed bolt (yours is a plain hex). if you stand the rod on the step, lift the arm as high as it will go and mark the rod where the bolt hole comes.

Replacing the long rod will need a thread on the long rod + a spring and a knob, the other end I have not looked at but just bent at 90deg and put through a hole at the top with a split pin through the end of the long rod would do.

Edited By Dave Halford on 08/05/2021 20:50:13

Thanks Dave,

do you have a photo you can share of this?

jez

I have just looked over my machine and it all makes sense. I will post a photo when the mods are done.
thanks once again

jez

I have finished the modifications and posted them to my album. Thanks for your help. I have decided to rebuilt my damp pot from scratch as the saw is not cutting straight and I think this is due to the lack of dampening. My final photo in my album shows a missing alloy block which would normally be attached to the damp pot. Does anyone have any suggestions or close of photos of how the damp pot and alloy block afix?

Thanks once again

Hi Jez,

My Kenedy is in bits at the moment, but there are good pics of the dash pot connection on http://www.lathes.co.uk/taylor/page2.html

Hi Jez

Looking at your photos, I wonder if you could make a cut-out mechanism based on the smaller saw (shown on lathes.co.uk) which had its switch on the motor?

I posted photos of mine and the parts I made for it on this forum Kennedy Hexacut 90 Power Hacksaw

Brian G

Jez,

Couldn't get my 90 to cut straight either with a normal hacksaw blade, however it does with a stiffer cut down full size industrial 1" blade. I guessed the rear clamp was slipping and being pushed from the front bowed the blade with the extra power and let it wander.

Adrian and Brian thank you - those photos clear it up nicely. Does the 90 have a similar spring to oppose the damp pot? Do you know the dimensions and / or a source to procure?

Dave, thank you and excellent idea. Do you have a link to the blade you sourced? Thanks