Aciera F3 Mill

Hi to all! I just bought 2 Aciera f3 mills, one older then the other. Both need some T.L.C. as they are a bit neglected. I have seen the mannuesl as can be found in the net, but still have some unsold issues regarding defferences between the 2 machines, aspecially in the clutch mechanizm, and the x movement of the table. Has anybody has some knowledje / experience of these machines? I will be glad to e mail photos and detailed questions. Thank you ! Yoram.

Yahoo groups is probbly your best bet

**LINK**

Yoram

TWO F3 ! -........Lucky you!

N

The F3 comes in not just early/late versions but has crossover versions too. But it is such a simple machine that if you have one ( or two) it should not be too difficult to work out what is happening once the manuals reveal the hidden details (such as the pre-load adjusts on the spindles). The problem is spares as Aceira shut down a very long time back. There are a few parts around in Switzerland but make sure you are sitting down before asking.

Would check that the oil levels are OK and that grease has not been used where it should not have been used if you plan a full strip down. Hope you get both machines back working as they are one of the finest mills ever made for precision work.

Good luck

Billy.

Many thanks for the replies. Thank you Ady1, I had registered to Yahoo groups, aproving it takes time.Thanks to Mr. Billy for detailed answer. would you happened t know the diameter of the belt pully fitted to the Aciera gearbox? on the older one i have a 90 MM external diametr pully, the newer one has a 210 MM. (yes, 21 centimeters!) pully, which will not pass thrugh the mills" body" and makes it impossible to remove gearbox from the mill. I am not convinced that even one of them is original, could not find this info in the mannuels. thank you!

Yoram

Puzzle increases! the F3 has a four step pulley at the top, this gives 500,880,1500 & 2500 rpm on full speed, switching the motor to Lo speed gives 125,220,375 & 625 rpm at 50Hz. There is not a Clutch, the drive to the H & V spindles is direct via the belt and fixed gears, speed is down to the pulley selection and motor pole selection.

The original belt is 17X2413 B95 so the internal lenth of the Vee belt is 2413mm, it is an easy to get £6 belt. The top pulley cover just clears the pulley which has a max diameter of about 170mm. Sounds like both top and botom pulleys have been used elsewhere!

The two pulleys are probably identical ( can't easily get at the lower door as there is a large machine in the way that will stay put for some time to come). The top pulley has an inner diameter of about 132mm for the slowest pulley, the highest speed is about 60mm in inner diameter. so the effective diameters are a little greater as the belt rides on the sides of the Vee. Should be enough given the speeds to work out the approx dimensions to turn up two replacements. I would check that the two speed three phase motors are working before going too far.. they are very reliable but may have suffered, the switchgear is VERY non-standard. At least check the motor bearings and re-grease.

Given that these machines have been butchered and the quality that is still underneath would suggest that you strip and clean the worst one then rebuild the better one based on what you have learnt from the first. It is not too difficult to take the top off the tray and take the machines apart, there was a good article in MEW a few years back on a F3 rebuild.These machines are beauties, they are very nicely made and of a quality that seems to be a lost art. Hope that you have some W20 collets!

Best of luck,

Billy.

Thank you billy. By "gearbox" i reffer to the transmission box that rotates a shaft , 2 "u" joints, and a small gear that moves th table left and right, (X  . the circular rotation is transfered via a spring loaded "clutch" operated by the two large handles in the front of the machine. This transmission is belt operated from a 5th pully on the electric engine. The pully i want to varify size is the one connected to this transmission. I my case-both mills work 2+2 speeds, back and forth, on original switches. I have one drilling head, complete, that i did not try yet. have about 25 collets, so far. Just finished to change 2 conical bearings in the pully spindle of one of the mills, works nice and smooth. As a mechanic of motorcycles i have the ability and proper tools to work on the mills ,but i do preffer to know befor dismantling, aspessialy since parts ars as dear as hen's teeths.

Pitty i do not succed to put photos here. any secrets about it????

Thought you were talking about the spindle drive! The Feed belt should be 13/8 X1475. The top pulley has an outside diameter about 150mm. The feed belt is tensioned after the main drive belt tension has been set with the adjustment behind the botom door.

The feed belt is tensioned by slackening the four mounting bolts on the feed gearbox ( on the outside of the machine, two bolts backside and two more on the side.) then moving the gearbox verticaly to tension the belt. You then tighten the mounting bolts which should have washers under the heads. It is helpful to be an octopus!

They advise not to change the gear selector when the table is being driven. The shaft with universals is called a cardan shaft in the manual. There is a shear pin at the table end of the shaft, 4mm x 28mm mild steel. The manuals don't have a full parts list even when you pay a lot of money for them!

Sounds like you have started collecting collets! The W20 has a very small gripping range unlike more modern types you have to use the correct size or it just won't grip. There are also a few W20 lookalikes that have a slightly different thread to the correct buttress types.

If your drilling head is the high speed milling head then you have one of the several sought after add-ons. It is powered from a seperate position on the speed selection switch via the two pin socket on the back. There are several different kinds of switch gear panels on the front which were fitted at different stages , these give a clue to when the machine was made apart from the serial number and importer's plate. The rounded or angular casting shape causes some to say "Late model" or "early model" but it is a little more complicated than that. But still a very nice machine.

regards,

Billy.

Hi Yoram

" Pitty i do not succed to put photos here. any secrets about it???? "

Secrets - no but maybe not the most straightforward process!

Here's how

1 Log in

2 Go to " My Account" ( top left ) and click on "My Photos"

3 Click on " Create a photo album"

4 Enter a name for the album

5 Click on " Create Album"

6 You will be taken to a page called " Add New Photos" - note photos must be jpeg format

7 Click the first button labelled "Browse" This will take you to the "My Pictures" folder on your computer

8 Click on the image you want to upload and click button marked "Open"

9 The image will be uploaded to your album.

You can leave it there and direct folk to look at it or, perhaps more usefully, you can add it to your thread.

Whilst typing your post, get to the appropriate place then click on the camera icon at top right of the posting box.This will take you to Your Photos. Click on the one you want to add and hey presto - it will appear! - THUS

Sounds complicated but it's easier than it first appears!

I would really like to see some pics of your Aciera

Good luck!

Norman

Thank you Billi and Norman.; Norman- grate explanation thank you!. So my suspitions are propably correct, non of the transmission's pullies is correct size, one too big one too small. the big pully seems to be Pressed on the shaft, no securing bolt, so i shall send the octopus to knock it out, somhow, and make new pullies on the larhe, as long as one do not get bored!! Sorry for the double photos, could not delete one. i will get more close up and detailed photos tomorow trhank you again for the important help!. ,

The feed top pulley should be held on by a small capscrew and washer in the centre of the pulley, there is a square key locking the pulley to the shaft- a very Aciera way of doing things. Guess that you can slip the belt off then unbolt the gearbox and then take out the whole assembly but never had to do it myself. Whole lot on page 6 of the Parts drawings.

Yes -you are lucky having the high speed vertical spindle with the sensitive feed, a very useful extra for fine milling and drilling. There are a few other special add-ons that are very sought after, these include a slotting head which replaces the standard vertical head . There are also alternate tables and a work-of-art dividing head and tailstock. If you win the lottery you might treat yourself to the cabinet that contains all of the add-ons but you need the engine crane to mount some of the bits on the machine!

The machine uses tapered gib strips, they are adjusted by a coaxial arrangement of an inner lock screw and an outer slotted worm, slacken the lock, turn the worm to tighten the gib then back off till the axix is free and re-lock. Makes multiple screws holding gibs look very crude.

Norman - nice explanation but is the width issue affecting the side bars resolved?

regards,

Billy.

Hi Billy. Thanks for the information. I got the mannuels from a site called skydrive.live.com I can't make a copy paste on it, kind of blocked, i got there from google search for Aciera f3 mannuel. after 6 howers of labor i managed to take the pully off the feed box, and only then i could take the box off the mill. Octopus flexability +Elephant's pations. I have many photos in my album. dont menage to uploaded here, and will be thankfull for any opinion . . I undestand that the feedbox pully should be around 150 mm outsid diameter, as i am going to make 2 pieces. Thank you for your help and advise. Have good weekend.

Hi Yoram,

Check " my messages" in "My account", have sent you a message.

Billy.