By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Fitting a DRO to Chester 3-in-1

Done X & Y, just Z to go...

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Captain Biggles04/03/2013 19:39:29
33 forum posts
15 photos

I'm after some advice - has anyone fitted a DRO to a Chester Centurion 3-in-1? Alternatively, can anyone comment on my cunning plan...

The sketch below shows the scale (in a extrusion) freely running behind two clamps that are bolted to the body of my machine. The encoder is mounted on L-bracket between the two. The bottom of the scale is attached to another bracket, and it's here I need some advice. Somehow this bottom bracket needs to attach to the quill, I'm not sure whether bolting it would be a suitable option, and I'm considering some kind of jubilee clip type solution.

Can anyone comment?

(The sketch below is simplified, showing just part of the body of the machine and the quill. Spindle ommitted for clarity)

z-axis.jpg

Michael Gilligan04/03/2013 19:53:12
avatar
23121 forum posts
1360 photos

You could easily make the bottom bracket into something like an Exhaust Pipe Clamp

Or [better] make two similar "bottom bracket" components and clamp them with long CapHead screws.

MichaelG.

Captain Biggles05/03/2013 09:57:47
33 forum posts
15 photos

Comme ca?

Michael, you're a genius... Cheers!

z-axis.jpg

z-axis 2.jpg

Les Jones 105/03/2013 11:03:15
2292 forum posts
159 photos

Hi Captain Biggles,
Thsi is the way I did it on my X3 mill.

pict0009.jpg+

This was made from a piece of scrap aluminium I had been given. The external shape was the scrap piece as it was given to me. I bored the hole to fit the end of the quill then cut the gap at the front. There is a length of 6 mm studding tapped into the left hand side with a locknut. I also left a loose nut between the locknut and the right hand side to spring the hole open a bit to make it easy to remove. There is also about an 8mm hole on the centre line at the back about 20 mm behind the hole for the quill. There is then a saw cut from this hole to the back of the piece of metal so thes is where it will flex when tightened up. (You could just have a smaller distance from the main hole to the back of the piece of metal.)

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 05/03/2013 11:04:41

Michael Gilligan05/03/2013 12:08:42
avatar
23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by Captain Biggles on 05/03/2013 09:57:47:

Comme ca?

.

Looks good to me.

MichaelG.

Captain Biggles05/03/2013 13:43:01
33 forum posts
15 photos

Who says design by committee is a bad thing?

Cheers all!

bottom bracket.jpg

dave greenham05/03/2013 17:15:31
100 forum posts

Brill I love it .

Thanks both for the idea
Dave

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate