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The super 7 now in pieces but a bearing and clutch question

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mike mcdermid29/08/2012 22:35:31
97 forum posts

Ok so the super 7 now lies dismantled.

Does anyone know the part numbers or bearing numbers for the rear angular contact bearings and where i can get some cheaper than 25 quid ea

Secondly

I cannot remove the clutch

It is the old style clutch cone inside the pulley ,Will come out 90 percent of the way relatively easily then gets stuck solid right at the point where it feels like the shaft should be leaving the cone ie just enough not to come out rotating it makes no difference

Im very surprised theres no woodfuff key in there to tie the clutch body to the shaft or should that be that there is a woodruff key and its become unseated just enough now to stop the outer clutch coming off

any one ever had one to pieces? im now mystified and cannot find instruciones

David Clark 129/08/2012 23:23:07
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3357 forum posts
112 photos
10 articles

Hi There

Ask Ketan at Arc Euro Trade about bearings.

regards david

Ady130/08/2012 00:14:28
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6137 forum posts
893 photos

It is the old style clutch cone inside the pulley

I believe it was made in such a way that the far eastern copy people never even figured it out

It always remained as a myford product

Ady130/08/2012 00:30:44
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6137 forum posts
893 photos

I knew I'd seen it SOMEWHERE

**LINK**

 

Many tried...

but all failed miserably... to copy the coutershaft clutch

So treat it with the reverence it deserves, you are handling sacred engineering

 

Users in the UK report that the lathes were accurate with one professional gunsmith, who used his for over 25 years, reporting no problems.
Other versions were also made including a  Super 7 - with a strange mixture of ML7 and Super 7 but with a roller-bearing headstock, no clutch on the ML7-type countershaft,

Yet another Chinese-built Myford copy but this time a curious mixture of ML7 and Super 7 with parts (resembling those) from the latter including the tailstock, a roller-bearing headstock, hinged covers over headstock and changewheels - whilst from the former the simpler form of cross and top slides was used and there was no clutch fitted to the countershaft

 

  • They were very capable people... but that coutershaft clutch was a bit of a bugger

 

Edited By Ady1 on 30/08/2012 00:52:33

mike mcdermid30/08/2012 07:56:15
97 forum posts

Sorry ady I believe that's the new one my clutch is in the middle of the actual countershaft 4 pulley nest not the drive pulley it comes out nice and smooth tile a finger in a yoghurt but the stops dead and it feels like a solid not soft stop

John C30/08/2012 08:01:35
273 forum posts
95 photos

I wanted to replace the angular contact bearings in my Super 7 headstock. The
bearings did not seem unduly worn, but as I had the headstock apart it seemed a
good idea. On removing the old bearings one was stamped RHP 7205 and the other
was R7M LJT25 The RHP bearing was missing a ball! The Myford description in
the manual in the files section of this site is RHP 7205. Searching under
angular contact bearings suggests that RHP bearings without a suffix have a 20
degree contact angle. I could not source any of these through a number of
bearing suppliers but was able to order a pair through Myford (RDG) sales. They
duly arrived and are marked NSK 7205 BEAT 85. The B suffix on many bearings
indicates a 40 degree contact angle. I asked Myford (RDG) directly if these
were from the Myford (Beeston) stores and the answer was yes. I also spoke to
NSK (UK) who took over RHP. They confirmed that the B suffix indicated a 40
degree contact angle, and that they had been supplying Myford with these
bearings since 1995.



The exact same bearings are available from RS components.....at a significantly

cheaper price!!

Rgds,
John

Tomfilery30/08/2012 09:49:11
144 forum posts
4 photos

Mike,

Re the clutch - I assume you've removed the pushrod and all of the operating lever parts and double checked that you have removed all of the grub screws (some of which fit into machined flats on the shaft).

I had some difficulty with mine when I took it apart and the shaft can only go one way - i.e. I knocked mine out from the righthand side of the headstock (chuck side). Someone had previously bashed the end of the shaft with a hammer, so it took a little work with a file to remove the distortion.. Even then, I had to drift it out (and back in again after inspection/ repair) with a wooden dowel. It most definitely was not a sliding fit through the bearing in the cone pulley.

Hope this helps you.


Regards Tom

mike mcdermid30/08/2012 11:42:38
97 forum posts

John many thanks for that the moderator should make that info available somewhere? sticky

Tom yes theres nothing left to come out completely stripped of all the screws cone internal and external are both loose and the vee pulley is also loose up to a point sliding the shaft out toward the headstock will come out all the way nearly then seems to catch on the vee pulley and upll the lot together

looking down the bore the shaft is clear of all the bearings (needle rollers) and probably could do with a tap,im only hesitant because it is a nice sliding fit and im questioning wy all of a sudden with maybe 75 mm left it stops solid ,its not a banding more a positive dead stop like a slide hammer?

John C30/08/2012 11:53:19
273 forum posts
95 photos

Hi Mike,

There is a thread on the cone clutch on the Myford lathe Yahoo group:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/myfordlathes/message/5500

You may have to join to see it, but there is lots of info within the group which would be of use.

John

Edited By John Corden on 30/08/2012 11:55:36

mike mcdermid30/08/2012 12:25:10
97 forum posts

John absolute blinder!!!!

first page and i see what is stopping said shaft being removed ...time for a hammer.

mike mcdermid30/08/2012 16:27:36
97 forum posts

A quick up date parts are dissasemble by carefull persuasion with the hammer it seems the ball bearing race is a slightly smaller dia than the torrington needle race ...and so needs drifting out for a good 10mm

phew

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