By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Gib Strip Positioning

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Peter G. Shaw27/07/2011 15:38:36
avatar
1531 forum posts
44 photos
I am making new gib strips for my Minimill/X2 clone and have taken on board all the information shown elsewhere about domes/ball bearings/dimples etc.
 
Fairly obviously, one wide face of the new gib slides against the sloping portion of the matching dovetail and the other wide face has the gib adjusting screws bearing on it. But what about the narrow faces?
 
One narrow face will be in the corner of, and will move with, the female dovetail, but what about the other narrow face? Should this be clear of the relative sliding surface, or should it act as an additional bearing/sliding surface?
 
The new gib is made from unknown steel but thought to be fairly tough as it came off steel used for constructional purposes. The dovetails are cast iron, and as they can be easily scraped, are not hardened. Also, the slide on the non-gib side are somewhat wider than then that on the gib side.
 
This particular new gib, although an unknown steel, is intended to be disposable if necessary as this, being the first gib to be remade, is somewhat experimental. I do have a length of EN3B steel specifically bought for this purpose if it is felt that this would be better. But, if the unknown steel does indeed work satisfactorily, then I would leave in situ.

Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
blowlamp27/07/2011 16:30:49
avatar
1885 forum posts
111 photos
Keep the narrow face of the gib strip clear of the part of the dovetail nearest to it, as there's no meaningful way it can provide any support.
 
My prefered approach if possible is to use a stout pin in the strip at each end, such that they are tight in the casting but free in the strip.
 
This locates it nicely and removes the tendency for the gib to wedge on the cone-shaped tip of the adjuster screw when moved.
 
In addition, I drop an angled pressure-pad (usually 60 deg) down the hole, followed by the adjuster screw which has a spot of thread locking compound on the threads and do away with the locking screws.
 
 
Martin.
Peter G. Shaw28/07/2011 16:59:49
avatar
1531 forum posts
44 photos
Thanks Martin.

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate