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fusee stop

J Wilding Elegant Scroll Clock

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Boldminer07/11/2010 11:55:04
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41 forum posts
13 photos
Can any-one please explain the operation of the fusee stop in the elegant scroll clock ?.
          This is my first venture into clock making and although I have made good progress so far, I am having trouble understanding the fusee stop.
There is no problem in making it, the problem lies with its operation. As I see it the 'iron stop' arrests the rotation of the fusee by contacting the stop plate attached to the end of it. However the drawing of the component parts shows the bottom edge of the fusee iron to be ' square ' to the bottom of the fusee block to which it is fitted via the locating pin. If this is the case then the ' iron ' is locked into the ' block ' with no rotation afforded to it.
        In this situation I would assume that  once it as made contact, the fusee will be stopped from moving any further...... however, also mentioned is a return spring that keeps the' iron ' out of the way of the fusee cap. So, am I to assume that the bottom of the ' iron ' should have a 1/4" radius on it, or at least on one side of it to allow movement ?.Lastly is it the action of the the wire pushing on the large radiussed side of the ' iron ' which causes it to be pushed out of the way of the fusee cap ?.
        I think that the answers are obviouse but they are only obviouse to those that know and in this instance I would like to know also.     Many thanks.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
keithmart07/11/2010 15:45:14
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165 forum posts

Hi


It is easier to put it together to see the operation, but basically the fusee cord pulls the iron on the last few turns of the fusee when you wind it up. This will then put the iron in the path of the stop to stop you overwinding and allowing the fusee cord to go over the edge of the fusee.


As i said it is easier to see than to describe


regards

Keith


Leeds UK

NJH07/11/2010 18:07:14
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2314 forum posts
139 photos
Hi
 
I have just put up an album of images of an English Dial clock I have been working on recently.
 
The first picture shows the fusee and a broken fusee line - the reason for the overhaul. On the left is a block which is holding, and acting as a pivot for, the Stop Iron.
 
 The next picture, with the front plate removed and turned over, shows the fusee with the fusee stop piece.
 
The last image is of the stop iron and stop iron spring.
 
In operation the line is wound onto the fusee from the large end and moves down until it meets the stop iron. Winding continues against the tension of the stop iron spring until the stop iron meets the stop piece and further winding is prevented.
 
As the clock runs the line unwinds from the fusee and the spring returns the stop iron to its starting position.
 
The radiused portion of the stop iron is away friom the plate (i.e facing the line).

Had you posted your query a couple of weeks ago I could have provided more pictures but the clock  now has a new line, polished movement and is ticking away sedately on the dining room wall!  ( I would also have taken the pictures AFTER I had cleaned it rather than in the scruffy state shown. It does seem however that the last work was done in 1890 - not too bad then!!)
Good luck with your project  - I do have a few line drawings of a stop iron etc. in a book which I can scan if you wish.
 
Hope this helps a bit
 
Regards
 
 Norman
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

Edited By NJH on 07/11/2010 18:09:44

Edited By NJH on 07/11/2010 18:11:29

Edited By NJH on 07/11/2010 18:18:31

Edited By NJH on 07/11/2010 18:19:56

Sam Stones08/11/2010 01:21:44
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922 forum posts
332 photos
Hi Boldminer,
 
Although there has already been some good advice provided, as the originator of the skeleton clock threads and photographs, if there's anything I can add, please feel free to ask.
 
Since the whole clock is represented in my CAD files, it's quite easy for me to access virtually all of the details.
 
Here, for example, with all the other details removed is an image of the parts of the fusee stop-work mechanism.


 
I trust that this helps. Having received a great deal of useful help myself, please don't hesitate to ask me for anything else about the clock.
 
Regards,
 
Sam

Edited By Sam Stones on 08/11/2010 01:24:27

Sam Stones08/11/2010 04:08:39
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922 forum posts
332 photos

Hi Boldminer,

I have just read more closely, your posting and realise how deceptive the isometric view can be when trying to work out the shape of the `head' of the Iron. I've therefore stripped off each of the other parts to reveal the Iron (that's the terms used in the original text).
 
 
[There was a problem inserting the image, so you'll need to go to my album.]
 
You can see from the yellow line, that the head is chamfered (it's about 10 degrees). This prevents the Iron from swinging too far over due to the spring (shown in blue). The square front face of the head stops the Iron from moving too far forward, otherwise it could overshoot, thus missing the snail-shaped hook.
 
By the way, unless I'm sadly mistaken, you have referred to this clock as being J Wilding's, whereas the original design which I have used, was John Steven's work. The drawing first appeared in five editions of ME commencing in Feb 1972.
 
Regards,
 
Sam
Sam Stones08/11/2010 22:13:26
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922 forum posts
332 photos
Hi Boldminer,
 
Although I've tried again to insert images, the system isn't working. Both of my last pictures fail to show. Once again, you'll have to visit my skeleton clock album.
 
I trust that the (new) drawing is of use. By the way, the chamfer on the Iron head measures about 11 degrees, although it doesn't need to be so accurate. 
 
When not involved in stopping the main-spring winding, the Iron needs to be `parked' out of line with the hook.
 
Regards,
 
Sam
 
 
Sam Stones10/11/2010 01:55:25
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922 forum posts
332 photos
It's time I apologised for making my earlier statement about being the originator of the J Wilding clock thread, because I wasn't!
 
I was under some impression that the discussion was about a small detail in my clock photographs, and that my own isometric view was being used to study the workings of the fusee stop.
 
Sorry gentlemen!
 
Meanwhile, with a forecast of about 27C, I shall be sweating in a fairly warm garage this afternoon, making those all-important balance springs.
 
Perhaps a hair shirt would help to relieve me of my sins?
 
Regards to all,
 
Sam

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