Doddy | 12/09/2010 11:36:56 |
![]() 72 forum posts 103 photos | Having made a simple scratch built engine as a newbie to the hobby, my wife bought me two Stuart kits - the 10H and the Score. The 10H is complete so here is my record of how I'm doing so far with the double. I started to make both models together as they share many parts - The following may not be the right way or the best way, but its how I've done it Any comments most welcome - We are all still learning !
using a slit saw to split the centre bearing - I may solder up the open edges with a brass filler strip and re-bore to close up the large gap left ! ![]() |
Doddy | 10/01/2011 19:31:15 |
![]() 72 forum posts 103 photos | Finally got chance to get back in the workshop and finish the build Wanted to pipework to look a little more to scale than the Stuart "off the shelf" ~ so made some flanges and pipework as she'll only be running on air |
Jeff Dayman | 10/01/2011 20:20:15 |
2356 forum posts 47 photos | Looks great David, especially the pipe flanges. So much better looking than commercial fittings.
Regarding paint, it sure would be nice to see a stuart engine not painted fire engine red or John Deere green.
Blue with orange highlights looks great, so does maroon or burgundy on these engines.
I did see some USA made stuarts with pale green and pale yellow or white trim, they looked very smart.
Up to you of course. Great job so far.
JD |
Ramon Wilson | 10/01/2011 22:56:00 |
![]() 1655 forum posts 617 photos | Some very good images showing some very nice workmanship - you should be proud of your achievements David, so soon in the hobby.
I'm with Jeff on the 'traditional' red or green - you do see far too many but maroon always does go well with smooth shiny steel and brass in my book.
I like the thought of Jeffs suggestion of pale green though.
Congrats on another model - so what's next then ?
Regards - Ramon |
Doddy | 11/01/2011 07:55:02 |
![]() 72 forum posts 103 photos | Many thanks, for the coments. Painted my last engine Pale Blue, I too could't face another British Racing Green. The wife said she'd like red, I'm thinking Brown / Biege but Maroon may be a good compromise. Next model, I've just printeed Gerry OldBoatGuy Beam Engine plans off, including the missing pages. I've got most of the materals but no aluminum for the side plates but have some 6mm brass plate! |
Doddy | 01/04/2011 15:58:20 |
![]() 72 forum posts 103 photos | OK ~ so I gave into the wife, I said I didn't want to paint it red !! she won, well it is named after her |
Alex gibson | 01/04/2011 23:55:00 |
35 forum posts | Hi David,
She looks fantastic ( I'm sure your wife does too ). I'm about to start on my first model project after four years of "tooling up". I've opted for a 10v and I'd be delighted if it turned out anywhere near as good as yours.
kind regards
alex |
lancelot | 03/04/2011 16:56:01 |
![]() 63 forum posts 4 photos | Hi David, great job on the build. If you followed the drawing and went with the dimension for fitting the cylinder to soleplate studs, I am pretty sure that gave you a bit of a headache to fit the nuts...caught me and quite a few others, lots of fettling to do and 1/2 sized nuts. contacted Stuarts re.changing pitch circle dia. to a tad bigger, a lovely engine to build and run.
John. |
Ramon Wilson | 03/04/2011 22:27:09 |
![]() 1655 forum posts 617 photos | Hullo David -
Congratulations on another fine piece of workmanship again so nicely finished and presented. It might be 'red' but it's a very nice shade (or should that be hue?) so what did you use?
Looking forward to seeing progress on the beam engine
Regards - Ramon
|
Doddy | 08/04/2011 08:00:20 |
![]() 72 forum posts 103 photos | many thanks for the positive feedback - paint is plastikote, several thin coats, rub down in between. When i did the 10H "Lancelot" tipped me off about the wrong PCD of the cylinder mounting stud hole, so I enlarged it to 1 3/16" it was still a bit tight so i made half size nuts. Having done it both ways I'm not too sure which is best ? |
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