Forum sponsored by:

Techniques for engraving and etching brass

Search for: in Thread Title in

Brian Lawrenson	22/09/2009 11:29:52
1 forum posts	My wife wants me to make a conventional horizontal sundial for the garden and I have spent some time learning how to calculate the angles required for our latitude and longitude. I've made a mock-up in cardboard which works excellently (using the necessary Equation of Time corrections). Can anyone suggest a source of clear and accurate information about incising the lines and numerals into brass? I guess photoetching would be best and I think it is possible to make iron-on acid resit using an inkjet printer... Regards, Brian L
keithmart	22/09/2009 11:49:02
165 forum posts	Hi Try this link:- http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=24249 Best regards Keith Leeds UK
Niloch	22/09/2009 11:50:02
371 forum posts	John Wilding has covered the technique of planing numerals in one of his several books. Consult: http://www.ritetimepublishing.co.uk to identify and buy the correct one.
Circlip	22/09/2009 13:20:35
1723 forum posts	A laser printer would be better Brian, another link to have a look at is:- http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm Regards Ian.
Geoff Theasby	22/09/2009 14:23:08
615 forum posts 21 photos	I made a simple sundial with Letraset for the numerals. If you wanted to reverse etch the dial (with the numerals showing proud) these transfers are proof against printed circuit board etchant. Just rub the Letraset off the dial after etching. Regards Geoff
Ian Abbott	22/09/2009 20:54:02
279 forum posts 21 photos	If you can draw accurately enough, you can do what us printmakers do with asphaltum and an etching needle to produce an etching plate. Asphaltum is cheap from Lawrences Art Supplies on line and an etching needle is anything that will scrape the stuff off when it's dry. The process is to coat the entire thing with the asphaltum, which is basically tar, and draw the design through, onto the brass. Where the brass is exposed, the acid will etch. Another method which we use, is to stick MacTac on the brass and cut away the bits you want to etch. There is one other method which relies on a photo polymer used for things like glass etching and making photo etching plates. A positive image on velum or acetate is put over the sheet of medium and exposed to the sun, (if you don't have a UV exposure unit) then the unexposed part is washed away with a hot spray of water. They can be in the form of a polymer on a carrier which is stuck on the metal after it's been exposed and washed, or a substance which is brushed on an then exposed. Both kinds are quite user friendly and should be relatively easy to find. Ian
Maurice	25/09/2009 16:51:05
469 forum posts 50 photos	There is an "iron on" etching paper available from "Maplins" and others, with which you can make etching masks. It does require a lazer printer or photocopier. When it comes to the etching, if you intend to use ferric chloride, I was told by firm that does it on a comercial scale that if the etching process seems a bit slow, don't increase the strength, water it down! Apparently, oxygen is a catalyst to the reaction, so oxygenated water will help. They also recommended suspending the work face down in the etching bath (with the face clear of the bottom) to allow the debris to fall away. Keep the bath rocking gently during the etch.
Jim Nolan	25/09/2009 19:41:56
77 forum posts	You can get some advice from this series of Trainman vids Part one here on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMSDHv3f_vk If the link will not work go to youtube and search for trainman4602 Jim
Tel	25/09/2009 20:25:30
157 forum posts 28 photos	Also, introduce an air stone, coupled to a cheap aquarium pump, into the etching bath - takes care of agitation.

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts

*Oct 2023: FORUM MIGRATION TIMELINE*
05/10/2023 07:57:11
Making ER11 collet chuck
05/10/2023 07:56:24
What did you do today? 2023
05/10/2023 07:25:01
Orrery
05/10/2023 06:00:41
Wera hand-tools
05/10/2023 05:47:07
New member
05/10/2023 04:40:11
Problems with external pot on at1 vfd
05/10/2023 00:06:32
Drain plug
04/10/2023 23:36:17
digi phase converter for 10 machines.....
04/10/2023 23:13:48
Winter Storage Of Locomotives
04/10/2023 21:02:11
More Latest Posts...
View All Topics

Support Our Partners

Shopping Partners

Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads

Reeves** - Rebuilt Royal Scot by Martin Evans
by John Broughton
£300.00
BRITANNIA 5" GAUGE James Perrier
by Jon Seabright 1
£2,500.00
Drill Grinder - for restoration
by Nigel Graham 2
£0.00
WARCO WM18 MILLING MACHINE
by Alex Chudley
£1,200.00
MYFORD SUPER 7 LATHE
by Alex Chudley
£2,000.00
More "For Sale" Ads...

Latest "Wanted" Ads

D1-3 backplate
by Michael Horley
Price Not Specified
fixed steady for a Colchester bantam mark1 800
by George Jervis
Price Not Specified
lbsc pansy
by JACK SIDEBOTHAM
Price Not Specified
Pratt Burnerd multifit chuck key.
by Tim Riome
Price Not Specified
BANDSAW BLADE WELDER
by HUGH
Price Not Specified
More "Wanted" Ads...

Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues