An utter beginner builds a Stuart 10v

I’ve fancied doing some lathe work for a while. I’ve never really encountered one and for Xmas I was treated to an Amadeal cj18. I don’t have a pillar drill or a mill. But I do have a z slide and a sense of adventure.
By day I design software, and by night I’ve restored a couple of cars so tools aren’t completely unfamiliar...

I’ve been looking through the box and I reckon I’ve got two tasks to start with. The flywheel seems an accessible item. So tommorow I’ll give it a whizz over with the flapwheel in the grinder and then the dremel to clean it up.
Second job is to make a surface plate. When I fitted the kitchen I bought secondhand granite and cut it to size on site. I should have a little off cut somewhere. That should get the bottom of the sole plate flat.

Nick

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All the best with the 10V Nick. It makes a very nice engine wether for static display, power for a boat or in an industrial situation such as driving the Stuart lathe etc.

As br says, please keep us up to date with progress and don't forget, if you hit any problems there are plenty of us willing to help and advise.

Brian

You don't really need to clean up the outside so the flap wheel is not really needed. Files or the dremel for the edges of the spokes and inside of the rim should be all the fettling needed, the lathe will do the rest.

Drilling can be done with the lathe

If you have not already read it then this is a good thread to follow

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I have a large lump of flashing when the metal poured in perhaps 8mm * 8mm * 5mm I was just going to buzz that down? Or will the lathe just motor on through?

BR, Drill goes in the lathe chuck, work either held on vertical slid eor tailstock drilling pad/vee

Nick, if it's that big a lump from a casting gate then saw it off.

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Righto I’ve got started

Put the flywheel in the 3 jaw Chuck about 25 times until it span nice and true. I’ve then faced the outside, the end of the boss, the outside of the boss ( so it’s concentric with the outside when i turn it round)

Next job is to make the 9/16 hole while it’s all still on the same mounting.

What I’ve seen people do is drill and ream to size. I’m not sure why I can’t just drill it to 9/16 if I have a drill to hand off that size?

A drill in unlikely to produce a true hole both concentrically and size wise so you may end up with a wobbly fly wheel as the grub screw cants it over when it is tightened onto a loose fitting shaft.

Reaming is better as it should produce a more accurately sized hole but check the size of the crankshaft material if going for a built up crankshaft as it may be a bit under the nominal 9/32" (not 9/16" unless you are making a big one) . This is is the route most builder stake.

Personally if I can get a boring bar in the hole I much prefer to bore the hole to finished size that way it can be tweaked to a nice firm push fit onto the crankshaft material and should the drill have wandered due to hard spots or voids in the casting boring will true things up where as a reamer will just follow the drilled hole. At 9/32 it's on the border line for what can be reasonably easily bored and what is best reamed.

Edited By JasonB on 24/01/2021 17:16:25

Edited By JasonB on 24/01/2021 17:16:53

Because a twist drill doesn't make a particularly good hole: it be round or accurately sized. Reaming after drilling improves both.

Cheers guys. So I guess I’m on the hunt for a few more bits to complete this.
I need a set of BA taps, a set of adjustable reamers and drills to suit.

Thank you so much for letting me just ask really naive questions.

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There is a video by Joe Pie regarding drilling holes using the tailstock on the lathe that is worth a look.

Tailstock drilling on the lathe

This video from Winky's Workshop looks at the use of spotting and centre drills in the tailstock.

Tailstock centre drills and spotting drills

Martin C