Acetal Faced Machinist Hammer

G'day all,

What's the best method of attaching black acetal to a machinist hammer(s) that I'd like to make.

Thinking of making two, one the middle part brass faced with two acetal ends and one aluminium with two acetal ends.

Hello. I would not use acetol for a hammer face as it chips and fractures easily. Try HDPE as its more flexible and less likely to chip off.

My soft face hammers are threaded to hold the replaceable faces.

Bri

Thanks for the heads up in regards to HDPE.

Cheers

Jim

P.S just looked up the eBay listing in my purchase history, I bought this as a batch of offcuts in 2017 and it is listed as HDPE

Edited By Blue Heeler on 02/06/2019 05:35:25

Edited By Blue Heeler on 02/06/2019 05:35:47

Nylon is commonly used for heads.

Yes HDPE is good for a hammer head, years ago I made a small machinists hammer with a brass head and the other head was made from PTFE (Teflon) both held in by two small grub screws, occasionally need tightening up but works very well, the PTFE is especially good at not marking delicate components.

Ian

I think hide and copper take a lot of beating for soft faces, no pun intended.

Mike

I find wood the most common - Oh you're still talking about hammers.

HDPE can be found everywhere about you and can be molded to shape, just don't use the house oven to do it. Woodworkers have made carving mallets from plastic milk bottle tops and even pens which can be turned

Edited By Derek Lane 2 on 04/06/2019 18:48:16

The usual method of attachment is to make the body (usually steel) with a female thread tapped into each side, about half the diameter of the head. The plastic face then is machined up with suitable step and the smaller diameter either screwcut or die-threaded to screw into the body. Coarse thread such as BSW or metric coarse series works best on the plastics. Be sure the threaded part is short enough that the plastic face part seats on the back of the face with no gap.