By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Use a router for a mortice lock

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
choochoo_baloo31/05/2019 13:34:44
avatar
282 forum posts
67 photos

[This is mainly aimed at the chippies out there!]

After researching fitting a 5 lever mortice lock, I've decided to hire a router and use a template accessory. I understand it's crucial to the function of the lock to get it right first time. I'll likely fit locks to other doors in the futre, so an investment too.

I can only seem to find mortice lock jigs costing ~£100 - can anyone recommend something cheaper?

Bazyle31/05/2019 13:57:22
avatar
6956 forum posts
229 photos

Two bits of 4x4 which you clamp either side of the door to make a larger reference plane. 1 piece of 3/8 ply with a hole in it to fit the guide bush on the router, or suitable for the whole size of the base of the router if no guide bush.
two pieces of wood to practice on.

Plasma31/05/2019 14:05:04
443 forum posts
1 photos

I use a router to cut in my hinge plates when hanging doors, not sure I would use one for the lock plate but there is no need for a fancy guide as Bazyle says.

Just a good reference plane and lots of practice before you tackle the real deal.

Bear in mind my internal solid oak doors were mucho pesos and the missus was watching my every move lol

Regards Mick

Andy Carruthers31/05/2019 15:00:20
avatar
317 forum posts
23 photos

Souber mortice attachment for drill, it's what the pros use

Alternatively, mallet and chisel after boring out for the body of the lock

Speedy Builder531/05/2019 15:01:05
2878 forum posts
248 photos

When using a router, its a bit like milling, you can go "conventional" or "climb". One way it "sucks" against the guide, the other way it ruins your job - Unless you have mastered its habits.

JasonB31/05/2019 15:06:20
avatar
25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

I use a router (laminate trimmer actually) for the hinges and Fore-end of the lock but just drill out the mortice and chop out the waste with a chisel. Depending on the backset of the lock and therefore its overall depth you need a long router bit to get the full depth cut and if you are not used to handling a 1/2" router it's easy to get a kick if you go at it to quickly.

If you do want to try a router than something like Bazyle suggests make it a lot easier than balancing the router on the edge of a door

Frank Gorse31/05/2019 15:18:40
104 forum posts

Not sure whether you’re talking about the mortice or just the shallow recess for the plate. As Jason says you’ll need to find a long bit and a decent router to do the mortice. Doing it by hand needs proper tools and if you had those you wouldn’t be asking the question. One piece of advice though, never “climb mill” with a router.

Donald Hill31/05/2019 15:33:23
19 forum posts

www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-S-5lHAQuM will show how a professional does it.

JasonB31/05/2019 15:52:41
avatar
25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles
Posted by Donald Hill on 31/05/2019 15:33:23:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-S-5lHAQuM will show how a professional does it.

That's a latch not a locksmile p

Kit like that is fine for the chippie on site doing price work where the more similar doors he can hang in a day the better but for one offs I could have had most of it done by the time the jig has been set up. Still got to hang a lot of doors to get back the £1200 cost

You also need locks to suit router fitting to make them pay eg rounded ends to the fore end, ditto hinges with rounded corners.

ega31/05/2019 17:27:42
2805 forum posts
219 photos

Whatever method is adopted, it will be much easier done on the bench rather than with the door already hung.

Hiring the router and buying the jig rather than the other way round seems doubtful policy. If routing, aim to use an up cutting-bit.

JasonB31/05/2019 18:40:43
avatar
25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

Personally I would not use an upcut in this application for two reasons.

1. Doubt you will find one with flutes longer than 50 and short overall length so temptation is to have too much sticking out the collet to get to the bottom of the mortice. Use a 12mm door bit which has 63mm flute and an overlength shank.

2. If the door has a composite eg chipboard core and no decent lock block then if HSS an upcut won't last long, again use a TCT door bit.

Edited By JasonB on 31/05/2019 18:53:33

Philip Sewell31/05/2019 19:47:18
26 forum posts
14 photos

My method is to use 2 fences and a 12mm router bit. in a 1/2" router, I plunge cut so as not to put side pressure on the bit. I go onto a 1/4" router freehand for the face plate (not sure of the technical name). Having marked out the position of the plate with knife and marking gauge I freehand as close as I can to the lines and finish off with a sharp chisel. Using 2 fences is a great way of controlling the router and all but eliminates a mistake. If I make door linings I'll make the lining fit the door so I'm not messing about with heavy doors too much on site. I made 12 solid ash doors and linings for a mates farm house recently, I'd quite happily never make and fit another house door in my life!

Nick Hulme31/05/2019 20:03:48
750 forum posts
37 photos

To achieve a period look I routed the apertures for mortise locks (Key centre 3" from edge) and latches (handle centre 6" from edge) for 7 internal doors with a router.
I couldn't find cutters long enough for my 1/2" bit router so I bought one 1/2" shank bit and 2 1/4" bits, turned extension bars on the lathe and bonded the 1/4" shank cutters into the extensions with a locking spot weld for good measure.
The company fitting the doors had suggested using roller latches as their fitters didn't have the means to fit latches this deep in the engineered timber doors which they supplied so I did the job while they hung the doors. 

Cost me the cutters and some lathe time :D 

madecutters.jpg

 

periodlooklocks.jpg

Edited By Nick Hulme on 31/05/2019 20:05:17

Dalboy31/05/2019 20:13:18
avatar
1009 forum posts
305 photos

I would as already suggested put a board either side to give a firmer base to work from. Again as already mentioned depth of cut can be a problem and the size of router needed to run a bit that is capable of routing to any depth.

Drilling out the bulk of waste will help and ease some of the load on the bit. A double fence is a good way to prevent any accidents of cutting away any wood that is not needed to be cut. Don't try to take too much of a cut the same as you would if milling,

If drilled out the amount that needs to be removed is just as easily done with a sharp chisel

Nick Hulme31/05/2019 21:44:25
750 forum posts
37 photos

Even with clamped wood support plates the door fitters said drilling can split the surface veneer of engineered timber doors, regardless of whether spiral or spade wood bits are used, I suggested all this as I have that equipment too

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate