Stockport Vacuum Engine

After building traction engines, hit and miss engines, and other model engineering projects I thought I would give a Flame Licker engine a go so I got a set of castings for the Anthony Mount Stockport engine, it turned out that the engine was a straight forward build, getting it to run was another matter and more than once I asked myself "why am I doing this" I have now got the engine running but I had to make some changes, I couldn't get a seal with the graphite flame valve I made a new one from stainless steel, did away with the bottom pushrod bearing which stopped the push rod from sticking when it got hot, Timing the engine for me was learning curve, after a lot of trial and error I finally got it timed and it was no way near where I thought it should be. Turning the taper on column using boring head and a homemade live centre Mike.

Edited By MichaelR on 16/12/2018 11:11:49

Nice looking result Mike, well done.

Jim

Looks to be running well Mike, you don't see many of these made. Nice shade of green too.

Thanks for the comments Jim and Jason, the colour is Valspar Mid Serenade (Spray Can), as you say Jason you don't see many of these engines, and that was exactly my thought when I was trying to get the engine running.. Mike.

Lub-dub, lub-dub. Sounds like my heart after a bike ride

Nice!

Very nice, I like that a lot.

Hello Mike, I made one of these some time ago; I could never get it to run. I would be grateful for any thoughts that you have on timing and your alteration to the valve; might encourage me to have another go at it. I have uploaded a photo but whatever I do the pictures come out sideways on this site. Ray

Edited By JasonB on 16/12/2018 17:22:11

Hello Ray, I could not get a decent seal with the carbon valve so made one from stainless steel and lapped it to the valve block, I did away with the bottom pushrod bearing as it tended to seize up when it got warm, the push rod floats free in a slotted plate which also supports the spring, the plate is supported on a brass pillar in place of the bent wire bearing support, the push rod goes into a plain hole in the valve held by a set screw so is easily adjusted. The valve starts to close just before TDC and starts to open just after TDC I also had to adjust the valve on the push rod, as my engine runs now, when the valve is fully open it only shows a 1/8" flame hole slot. A lot of trial and error went into timing this engine but I finally got there, hope this helps. Mike.