Myford ML7 spindle parts

Hi from Finland.

I'm bidding on an ML7 lathe (first lathe if I win) and it's in rough shape. I've been researching up on ML7 lathes and recently encountered a worrying fact, there are no more white metal bearings and the bronze ones need a new spindle, and now I found out they too aren't even sold separately.

So even if the bearings are worn and need replacement (or I want higher speed) that's £300+. And then I am thinking, what if the phosphor bronze bushings might need replacements for those, yet another new spindle?

So I am wondering before even getting the lathe how to address this potential issue in a way that saves me money. What can I do? Assuming the bearings are fine and there is no play, could I use the myford to make another myford spindle?

Don't see why not but I have never used a lathe before so I'm asking the stupid questions to be sure.

Alternatively, could the headstock be retrofitted with ball bearings? Has anyone done so? I tried searching and people have asked, but none have done it that I know. Someone said bearings of that quality would be expensive, but £300 expensive?

This might all be for naught, might not win this lathe but if I get it for the lowball offer I made I can't say no to a lathe.

If you look for babbit and white metal that may help

You can pour your own, like with lead weights for fishing

Edited By Ady1 on 21/04/2017 08:00:34

That I suppose is one method, I do know a guy who has cast his own babbit bearings when renovating an 1800s era german circular saw.

Ideally in the case of required bearing swaps I'd like to try and upgrade to the phosphor bronze ones to get some extra speed and durability. And if I own a lathe and I get some phosphor bronze stock, what's stopping me from turning my own bushings? If the lathe isn't worn too much that is. Splitting it might be more difficult... Splitting it beforehand, gluing it (solder perhaps) up again and then turning it might be an option.

But then I would still need a hardened spindle for use with phosphor bronze bushings, not something doable at home... But from another hobby of mine I know there's an interesting process known as electroLESS nickel. This deposits a micron thick layer of 55-60HRC nickel and it deposits it extremely evenly unlike its electroplating cousin. That could be one way to get a hardened spindle, if a few microns extra thickness was OK...

Sorry I like to ramble and get lost in my own thoughts, tend to run away from me...... I don't even know if I will win the auction!

Given that you haven't got the lathe yet, have never used a lathe might it not be prudent to learn to use it, if you win it first before making major and expensive decisions even for a skilled lathe user ?

Well yes and that is how it will go, I will do simpler stuff first...

My main experience is in woodworking and welding so far, and of building my own machines like a belt grinder, and renovating parts and old machines like my bandsaw. I like dragging home old things and rebuild them, for my bandsaw I had to source out the fabrication of a new upper shaft.

But I have these questions and ideas that pop into my mind, I can't stop it... I wanted to voice them to people who have the experiernce and skill so they can be shot down if nothing else. Even if nothing comes of it, I will have learned something useful in the process.

I'm gonna have a lathe eventually, so it's only a matter of time, pondering anything machining related is of use to me.

Edited By Dennis Aspö on 21/04/2017 09:19:52

The original white metal bearings are very repairable. They are a very thick layer of white metal, so can be scraped to fit the shaft many times over, but this is not a beginner's project. If the bearings get scraped down too far, the mating faces of the split will collide, so then you can file or mill the faces to allow more scraping to be done.

If you spend the money for the bronze bearings and hard shaft, they will last the rest of your lifetime if kept lubricated so don't worry about not being able to buy the bearings separate from the shaft.

An alternative might be to make new bearings out of leaded bronze, which will run on a non-hardened shaft.

Yes you can convert them to roller bearings but it requires advanced precision machining in a good milling machine, see the recent article in MEW on upgrading a Drummond lathe thusly.

It is most likely that your new used lathe will just need the shims removing from between the bearing halves to get you going, maybe a little bit of scraping later on.

This is the problem with buying sight unseen though: you don't know if it just needs a bit of tidying up or if it is clapped beyond redemption. Would you buy a 50-year-old car without seeing it first?

This is true, my friend could perhaps help with the scraping, he's done precisely that before when rebuilding the circular saw. i have done casting before and I have.... I don't remember if it was 2 or 4kg piece of 99.99% tin and other lead alloys.

I have only offered 200€ for the lathe, the seller wants 699€ but it has been for sale for a month or so by now. No takers, the market for lathes seems small in Finland. It has no change gears, but it comes with it's own factory base. And no 4 jaw chuck either. New 3-phase motor fitted, lathe runs on 3ph but that is OK I have it in my shop.

Maybe I could stretch to 300€, I am not sure, I am quite willing to wait for a suitable lathe, plenty of stuff todo anyway...

Edited By Dennis Aspö on 21/04/2017 11:07:43

Well one thing is the missing change gears. Secondly you don't very often see the original stand, at least in Sweden.

Åh, du är svensk?

Jajamän! Uppsala