Myford super 7 rebuild help

Hi Guys

I have now completed (stripped, sprayed etc ) the metal base stand for my myford,

also finnished the bed, headstock and just done all the alloy casings parts.

I have the bed sitting on the try which is in turn sitting on the stand,

I have also got (and painted ) some raising blocks that the bed is sitting on.

the head stock and spindle is all assembeld and mounted on the bad to geather with the tailstock

I was about to start adding all the alloy casings to the headstock,

do I set up and level the lathe now, or finish adding every thing back first

have a look at my album

Piero,

You are making a fantastic job of refurbishing your Super 7.

You should fully assemble the lathe and run it a while to ensure everything is bedded before you "level" it. If you attempt to level it too early you will only have to do through the procedure again later.

Eric

grate.

I can get back to playing with it then

Before you level a lathe it's best to understand what that actually means. Howard Hall states exactly what it means here.

**LINK**

In summary it is a method of checking a lathe bed for twist and is rather difficult to detect any other way. It needs a very sensitive precision level. The bubble needn't be central but can be adjusted so that it is. It's movement of the bubble as it's moved along the bed which is the important thing. The actual physical levelness of the bed doesn't really matter within reason. An ordinary spirit level is more than adequate for that - a lot more than adequate. Eyeball level is good enough really but the tray the lathe sits in may need to be more level than that to allow coolants to drain away.

The main thing about mounting a lathe bed is that it's strain free which is just a case of adjusting the jack screws that lathes sits on and making sure they are all supporting the lathe evenly. At that point the bed can be levelled as Harold mentions using a precision level to check for any twist.

He mentions another way of correcting the lathe where the bed could finish up being twisted to correct turning errors. There is a problem with this as that technique is sometimes used to finally set up a lathe to turn very parallel work over a distance of usually something like 6" on small lathes. It's only intended to cure very minor errors that on well made lathe may well be under 0.001" taper. Not figures much greater than this that are due to wear in several places such as the bed, saddle or head stock bearings or simple miss alignment of the head stock. That sort of thing needs sorting out first which he also mentions early on in his write up.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 06/12/2016 23:24:38

yeah, good point.

best I have the base stand un-level so any coolant/oil etc can drain.

Then treat the bed as a separate entity

Ok New question plz.

The old tool post is 7/16 wide, the tool post clamp is 1/2 inch, is this mis-match normal???

My lathe came with a quick change unit, that to has a 1/2 hole, there is obviously a lot of play happening there (before tightening the nut)

in the myford parts manual, (page 43 part No 7 and 8 ) it shows grubscrew and pin,

I have neither, is this needed when using a quick change tool post

Very nice work Piero! Painstaking job but very much worth it IMO.

thanks

The quick change toolpost should have a stepped bush in it, fitted at the top; the bore should be 7/16" to suit the Myford toolpost stud. It's important that the toolpost has this bush, as it's the head of the bush that stops the cam screws rotating 360 degrees. If the toolpost is off another lathe, then you may need turn up a new bush.

I dont seem to have that bush,

Ill take a look at the make tomorrow to see who makes it