Member postings for mrbuilder

Most definitely depends on what someone is willing to spend as mentioned.

I've however seen far worse for not much cheaper than $4000 here, i.e. people just expect to get ridiculous prices for even a worn Myford. Based on that I'd spend extra money to have the one in the crate, pending viewing preferably, but perhaps that's not normal.

I too have looked at purchasing out of the UK but for the same reasons mentioned I didn't. It also depends where you buy one from, some dealers I spoke to at the time were already over $3000 equivalent without shipping considered. The 2350GBP ML7 from Myford Lathes above in a previous link is an example albeit with a clutch and gearbox.

Edited By mrbuilder on 11/09/2018 10:33:55

Well that's the nature of auctions, is it not?!

Edited By mrbuilder on 10/09/2018 14:57:11

I'm envious! That's a steal!

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_SVMS.html

Anyone care to comment on the quality of these please, particularly this one from Chronos?

Are the genuine (second hand) Nottingham versions any better? Some of the ones I've seen for sale are in poor shape for a high price which is why I'm looking at the copies.

Edited By mrbuilder on 27/01/2018 12:48:51

Thanks Hopper. Sounds like the same problem I've got here. That all makes sense to me, going to make a shim up tomorrow.

I can only think when the last person rebuilt this machine they didn't replace whatever "shim" was there or just didn't bother to fix.

Good to know this is working for you - I couldn't find any documentation on this being done...

The short question - has anyone shimmed between their saddle and apron? And do you see any problems with it?

From what I’ve been reading it seems to usually be the opposite problem – apron too low.

The background to this question...

I got a Myford ML7 back recently from a bed regrind and saddle/slides regrind and scrape in. Part of the condition of the reasonable price for this work was that everything was stripped back and only the parts applicable were sent away (i.e. no headstock/apron/leadscrew/rack etc.). Before regrind apart from the tightness near the tailstock was that the leadscrew used to lift up when engaged (never really thought about it till now).

My problem now is that after refitting the apron is that the apron is too high, which means the carriage won’t move when trying to turn the handwheel and the leadscrew still lifts (perhaps always was always too high based on my comment on the previous leadscrew alignment). The other thing I have done was replace the worn rack pinon assembly with a new one.

So the combination of the bed regrind/saddle regrind and scrape in/new rack pinon/how it was previous, means I need to do something to align the apron with the rack and leadscrew. It’s 0.030” from assessing using feeler gauges, this means smooth movement of the carriage and no leadscrew lift.

1) Take 0.030” off the saddle.

2) Raise the rack and leadscrew – doesn’t sound good…

3) Shim between the saddle/apron.

My preference is 3) does this sound like an okay solution? Shimming also looks like the easiest option.

PS Have also tried the standard Myford procedure to set up the alignment of the apron off the leadscrew but this didn’t solve any problems.

Edited By mrbuilder on 28/12/2017 06:54:43

Yeah that's basically the same method I use to align the column but use a machinists square instead of an angle plate. And I use a (knock off) "indicol" to attach the DTI. Readings do indeed vary a bit on the way up or down as you've mentioned.

That test doesn't matter if the head is out, and what I'm not understanding about Neil's note about being hard to align the column without aligning the head first.

Thanks. I was able to get it to under a 0.001" by tapping the column, I also thought of this shortly after and it worked for me.

By using a machinists square, but yes of course there are some assumptions made by using this method.

How so, I'm not sure I understand this? I've always though of these as separate checks, how does the head out of alignment affect a check on the column?

Thanks heaps for this wealth of information! I am indeed keen to know and I'm going to run through your method / checks once I get a bit more spare time.

Cheers guys.

Edited By mrbuilder on 12/11/2017 02:46:48

Anyone know how it might be possible to correct the column alignment of my BF-20 mill (in the X direction)?

A bit different to a SIEG which has the bolts at the base where this has the four bolts horizontally. Any ideas?

Y is easy by shimming, but is okay on mine anyway after checking with a machinists square. X needs work hence the question.

Looking at purchasing a set of ER collets either ER25 or ER32.

Has anyone purchased collets with TIR - 0.01mm vs the standard 0.02mm? And any benefit in doing so for model engineering / home workshop?

I have to agree with that, the alternative new bright zinc plated nuts didn't look right in my application either...

Thanks everyone for all of the thoughts

Edited By mrbuilder on 15/09/2017 04:23:35

It's a 3/8 BSF nut. Sorry should've chucked a rule next to it.

The look has kinda grown on me. My original thought was a clean up after corrosion but not really sure. Have five of them, all the same.

Edited By mrbuilder on 14/09/2017 13:23:49

Can't say I've seen this before, but doesn't anyone know how this decorative effect was created on this nut?

Hmm... That helps and makes sense now that I think of it, perhaps the later type had no logo - I notice most of the new ones from today (not necessarily for Myford) don't seem to have logos.

Thanks for all of the replies guys, appreciate it.

Undecided whether I'll make one seeing as isn't available separately, just another project to add to the 1001 others!

This thread reinforces the fact I "need" one though

So I can use my spare Dickson tool post at the rear, anyone know where I might be able to purchase one of these blocks (circled in blue)? (Short of making one)...

Photo credit: Swarf, Mostly!

Funnily enough that thread contradicts the previous link so I'm now unsure again...