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Pultra Headstock help

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Ajohnw08/07/2015 10:22:51
3631 forum posts
160 photos

I didn't know that the internals on these varied. I am wondering if anyone has the words to go with the numbered parts of the top headstock arrangement show in this. The manuals I have seen only show the lower one that uses a thrust race rather than the sleeve round the spindle.

pultraheadstocks.jpg

I have a photocopy of this page and it refers to the top one as the plain headstock and the lower one as the lever headstock. While I can manage it would be nice to have the words that should be in the manual referring to all of those numbers. The manuals I have seen do refer to all of the numbers on the lever headstock and include dismantling and setting instructions. One thing I find odd about the sleeved one is that the sleeve which forms the thrust bearing doesn't want to move which would make removal of the spindle rather difficult. Some trick may be needed to free it.

Ebay Pultra watchers may have noticed one complete with dividing head and the milling / grinding attachment. crying I'll be curious to see what that one goes for.

John

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david bennett 820/07/2015 01:15:05
245 forum posts
19 photos

Hi, while I do not have the words to go with your image, I do have dismantled headstock in front of me. The sleeve only comes off the shaft in one direction - towards the rear.It is a snug fit, and has a key. To remove shaft, take off the drive pulley and key,then undo rear nut of the front bearing (it will clear the thrust collar) and slide out the shaft complete with collar and front bearing (slacken rear bearing first) The collar can then slide off rearwards. Hope this helps. Dave

Ajohnw20/07/2015 23:29:35
3631 forum posts
160 photos

Thanks Dave. It's more reassuring really that it should come off in that direction.

I had slackened off the rear nut, pushed the spindle forwards to create clearance between the sleeve and the rear bearing and expected to be able to push the sleeve back along the spindle. It's stuck and wont move at all with finger pressure so I wondered if something else had to be done. Sounds like it just needs a bit of forces to free it.

It's a pity no one seems to have the "words".

The ebay pultra I mentioned never reached the end of the auction. Bid's cancelled and marked no longer available. I suppose the seller had an offer that they thought they couldn't refuse. Pity really I was very curious to see how much some one would bid on it. I contacted the seller as the listing showed the same headstock drawing but it seems they didn't have the words either.

Next problem for me is just where do I find some oil wicks. Looks like they need to be around 0.1" dia. Perhaps a bit bigger to ensure they stay in.

John

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Phil P20/07/2015 23:38:39
851 forum posts
206 photos

I bought some braided oil lamp wick material on ebay when I did mine, I warn you its a right pain of a job to get it installed correctly.

I have some better drawings if you want a copy let me have a PM with your e-mail address.

Phil

Ajohnw21/07/2015 13:05:04
3631 forum posts
160 photos

Looking around on the web some people use petrol lighter wicks on Lister engines. 2 off them together might work out on a Pultra. It seems that they are 2mm dia. There was also a suggestion that the flow can be regulated by binding them more tightly, fine copper wire maybe.

My 17/50 has seen a lot if use in anger. An owner made new bearings for it in 1995 and reckoned they lasted around 15 years. The lathe was new in 1947 and the next and last owner used it daily for a long time. The bearing seem to be still fine. From the way the oil reservoirs empty I can see that there is a wick fitted to the front bearing but not the rear. I assume that's been done to prevent oil from causing too much belt slip. I need to make a new pulley for the headstock so will see if I can build in some sort of oil slinger but there isn't much space. On the other hand I suspect that the person who made the bearings knew what he was doing so none in the back might be common.

John

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