Hoglet Build

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It is yes.

More to follow soon when I get chance to upload the images.

Nick

No problem, that "polished metal" effect in paintshop does take a while

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Yeahh, it takes ages. - Would be much quicker to actually polish it for real.

Nick

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The con rods are another area where I have deviated from the drawing. This is going to end up a Hoglet based engine.

Made from brass bar the basic shape was 'hogged' out. (you see what I did there.  

The little end had a PB bushing pressed in and was reamed out to size. The gudgeon pin will be T drilled so as to hopefully pick up a little bit of lube from the bore.

A jig was made to hold them while they had profiling done.

PB was split and then soft soldered together and machined to make the big end bearings.

Blip of heat to break them again and then dress them up.

A test fit.

The top section of them will need to be profiled some more so that they do not foul the inner skirt of the pistons and the bores.

And here is a little video of test assembly.

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Onto finishing the valves. The amount of time making the valves and the rocker gear is quite a bit more than I thought it would have been. I still need to make an arrangement to enable the valve clearances to be adjusted. - Speaking of which has anybody any idea what the valve head / rocker clearance should be 'ish' ?

Valves were lapped, cut to final length and the groove cut in to take the retaining circlip.

Rocker arms and the rocker shaft was made. Again I have altered from what the drawing presented.

And assembly.

Eeeeek.! Look at that tardy finish the camera shows. - Maybe I will have to get hand into pocket and buy some tumbling medium.

Nick

Are you not making adjustable push rods like the drawing? If not you can drill and tap the ends of the rockers say M2 and use a cap head screw for the rod to go into, locknut on the top to keep it from turning once adjusted. That way you could use a solid pushrod, about 3/32" rod would do.

I tend to set the gap so you can just see light between the two surfaces so maybe a thou or two.

Nothing there that a bit more draw filing won't cure or lay a bit of fine emery cloth on a flat surface and rub the part on that.

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I think you have psychic powers into my head. - That was the general idea I was planing upon.

Nick

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The basic shape of the cam housing was made a while ago (you may have seen it in the background of previous photos) But this is how I did it.

Block was fly cut to size.

And holes drilled along with a ref marker for where the camshaft will lie as all angles and other points relate to this shaft.

The angle of the top of the housing block was milled again with a fly cutter.

That was as far as I had got.

A jig was made to hold it for the rest of the machining and is shown here semi constructed.

The jig with the housing attached was placed into the rotary table on the mill for drilling the holes for the cam followers. The drawing had the followers running in just the aluminium block. I decided that they needed to be installed in something a bit more suitable and made the holes larger to incorporate guides. The angles of the cam followers are 23 & 29 degrees.

Guides were pressed in and the jig was then over to the lathe to make the hole for the camshaft.

A recess was also bored for the camshaft timing gear to sit into.

The cam followers were made and a little bit longer than the drawing to allow for the protruding guides. These also have an oil groove cut into them half way along their length.

The shaft shown in the photo is the major diameter of the yet to be made camshaft.

Nick

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This coming weekend I am going to have a camshaft making session.

I have never made a camshaft before, so any tips for doing so please. (as maths free as possible)

Cheers, Nick

I've explained it before, just need to find where. No maths just pictures and sketches

Did you also buy the mag that shows the cam cutting method?

Edited By JasonB on 07/10/2016 09:18:37

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Cam was attacked.

A blank was made from silver steel.

Then fixed to the revolving shaft.

Over to the mill and rotary table and the shape was gingerly started to be carved. I had to make light cuts as I really could do with a tailstock for the rotary table. ........ But I ain't got one.! (perhaps I should make one)

Starting to get there.

And then dressed the edges with a file.

Needs a bit of polishing, and while I realise it's far from the prettiest cam ever made I think it will do the job. In all I am reasonably please for my first dabble at such.

In the end it was not the difficult and daunting task I had in my imagination. Just a time consuming one with making passes every 2 degrees.

Nick

It will do the job, sometimes the A1 Eyeball method is all you need

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The finished cam housing and ignition timing may not look much but for it's size there has been quite a bit of time put into this section.

Nick

Looking good

Rod

Looks good but not sure how well your hall sensor will work end on, I'll look into it later

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Thanks Rod and Hi Jason.

I did try that orientation by sweeping the bits by hand before making the parts.

However you did prompt me to try it again once fitted.

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Phoned a friend of mine to ask him had he got any brass tube about 2" in dia to make a fuel tank with. He pitched up with a length of 1 3/4 brass bar that he had cut off a length of his stock, saying he could not find any tube so I would have to bore it out. This also meant I would only have to seal one end. Beggers cannot be choosers so I was grateful.

I am waiting for the last few bits of material for the actual engine so this eve I thought I would make the tank. - Only wanted it to be small as the engine will never run for more than demonstration purposes and did not want the tank to dominate the view of the emgine.

He gave me too much so I parted off what I needed.

Cleaning up cut was taken.

The largest drill I have it an MT3 1" dia.

The cylinder was then bored out leaving a 1/8th wall thickness. I know this is massive overkill as it's not a pressure vessel. Just a container. A 1/16th inch recess was machined in for the end to sit onto.

It was parted off and an end was made. This was made 2 thou shy on size on each side and also chamfered to give the solder a happy home to flow into. Was made a tad to thick to allow for facing off later.

Flux and a ring of solder was put in. I drilled and recessed the places for the filler cap and outlet flanges will sit. I did this as I would imagine if the whole thing was sealed the expanding air would try to be pushing the end plate off.!

I know that the norm is to put the bushes on the inside. But as I said it's not a pressure vessel.

Heated and a little bit more solder applied.

Faced off and cleaned. The solder ring is just about visible if you look very hard. In reality it will not be noticed. 

Internal dimensions are 1 3/4 x 1 1/2 ins. No idea how long that will run the engine for. - That is presuming the damn thing will run at some point in the future. 

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 11/10/2016 22:22:46

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Getting close now.

Last part to make was the inlet manifold.

Then work on final assembly took place.

The ignition malarkey stuff underneath.

And we should be ready to roll.

Nick

Looking good Nick.

Can't see a method for starting it though. Are you going to add something to the crank end to take a cordless?

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I am going to rotate it with the power of the mind and telepathy. You know Uri Geller style.

Nick