Brian's 1" Minnie Traction Engine

Looking good, now for the fun job of riviting in the spokes!

I am guessing that riveting the spokes is not going to be the simplest of jobs !

might it be worth while using copper rivets ?

Definately need to use copper as anything harder will need a lot more force to close and you will distort the aluminium Tee around the rivit.

If you make the little dolly to hold the rivit like it shows in the book that will get you into the back of the rivit, depending on where you buy your rivit snaps you may need to thin the end down.

If you have not formed snap head rivits before then drill some holes in a bit of scrap and have a practice before you do the wheels. I think that i swhy most people start with teh front end as the single Tee makes it easier to do those rims.

Thanks the the advise, will order some copper rivets I think.

Hi Brian,

This is the dolly made many years ago when riveting Minnie's rear wheels. I also used a hollow punch to settle things down before trying to close the rivet.

Getting the length of the rivet is important for a correctly formed head, a little experimentation as Jason suggests will pay dividends. I made a little shear tool to crop the rivets to length once the correct length had been determined. (there are quite a few to cut!) I tried side cutters but then the rivets tend to fall over to one side.The length will vary depending on how good a fit the rivet is in the hole, first it will expand to fill the hole and then start to form a head.

The dolly can also be used on the smoke-box ring, when you get there, by repositioning the snap, that's what the slot is for at the other end.

Regards

Phil

Thanks Phil, going to have a break from the rims for a bit ( wimp )...

Going to make a start on the boiler..so..here we go again..

Seem to be having real problems with rust/staining.

only last night I wrapped all the pieces up in rag after spraying with wd40 checked tonight and some rust staining again.

Workshop does not have any rust problems normally, machines and tools are all fine.

So tonight have dipped in oil and wrapped in paper towel...anyone got any ideas?

Edited By Brian Abbott on 09/03/2015 21:59:08

Hello all, quick update on my rust issue..

Whenever i store parts i soak them in WD40,

could it be the solder from when i did the hubs is still leaching acid, this then gets washed around the wheel by all the WD40 giving me a rust problem ?

Anyway, based on this i cleaned the wheels again, the lightly wiped them over with an oily rag, and for the past week or so no rust..

just an idea.

Hi Brian,

So that you know you are not alone...

After soldering, my wheels leached flux from the Bakers Solder Paste at the root of the spokes for a long time. I think this is why I have avoided painting for so long.

If I was doing it again, I would use slow set epoxy resin, I think I mentioned this in an earlier post.

I'm sure someone here will be able to advise what method to use to remove the flux.

This is what mine looks like after some 30 years...

Regards

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 19/03/2015 11:27:03

Look pretty good after 30 years, thought about giving them a light sand blast, (have an old blast cabinet at work) then a coat of etch primer to seal but would the rust pass through the paint, I don't know.

All a little sole destroying when you spend so much time on something just to see the rust start.

Minnie boiler advice please.

Hello all, after some more help,

Working through making all the bits for the boiler, is calls for the water gauge to be tapped 7/32x40 in both the soldered bush and the manifold, am I correct in saying I that I have to turn up 2 spacers to connect the gauge to the boiler? And if so what size should these be tapped for the gauge as 7/32 do not seem common,

thanks for any help

I made my gauge and the top & bottom fittings are 7/32x40.

Can't see why you could not use an off the shelf 1/4x40 gauge and make up a couple of extensions 1/4 one end and 7/32 male the other from a bit of hex stock

Thanks Jason.

Do you know of any websites / you tube videos showing how these parts work when in steam ?

Hello all.

Still building the boiler...have decided to use PB102 for the threaded bushes, is this the best material or should i favour brass ?

Thanks

Brian

Definately bronze for the bolier bushes.

Missed you request for video, will have a look.

J

Thanks Jason, sorry for not responding.
Not sure how the water gauge works, understand the principle of the water levels but do you need to purge it by opening the valve ?
Really basic stuff i guess but hoped there may be a video of someone using one.
Thanks again.

Hi Brian , If I have used acid on anything I give it a good soak in soda carbonate or bicarbonate, hot is best ,leave to soak ,rinse well in hot water and dry quickly by warming .Then oil or paint. Hope this helps Maurice.

Brian, yes you can get a build up of scum inside the glass and this can be cleared by opening the bottom valve on the glass.

About 2 mins into this one

J

Edited By JasonB on 08/06/2015 17:54:07

Thanks both, Jason that is a help, Thank you.

Feel a little stupid asking this as I feel I should know but here goes.

Why do I need to use Pb 102 for bushes and such on the boiler, why can i not just use copper ?

is it because the Pb is a stronger material and holds the threads better ?

I do no that Pb102 has a very high copper content so makes it ideal to solder to the copper but that's it.

thanks for any advice.