Cant seem to get a nice finish

Manual feed is better.

Its not build up and coolant does not help.

Like i have said i am awaiting a new feed screw from Warco plus i have sorted out the gib strip.

So its just a case of wating for reassemble and see how it goes.

I am also thinking about making a solid tool post to replace the compoud slide, but thats for the future

Edited By petro1head on 22/02/2023 10:39:29

I've skimmed most of the answers and it's pretty obvious it isn't your slides, easy to confirm by locking cross and top slides then take a cut. I would imagine the problem is some sort of rotational irregularity in the drive train or rack or both? My Warco 290V isn't of the best standard and I don't get this problem but then again I don't use change wheels which were of really terrible quality but instead use an electronic lead screw. Interesting and for you frustrating issue.

Tony

I had the same issue with my WM250VF, and found that slackening the threading dial engagement with the leadscrew helped. In the end I just disconnected the threading dial completely!

Edited By Jimmeh on 22/02/2023 14:02:43

Again i would loike to thabk everyone forbtheir input.

Reassembled and now perfect. Just done a fine cut, slow feed abd bothing locked up, perrrrrrrrfect

Concider this thread closed

So what was the final diagnosis?

Tony

New feedscrew abd sorting the gib out

Problem would have been that shonky gib strip. Keep your old screw and nut for spares if the new one ever wears out.

Edited By Hopper on 22/02/2023 21:33:52

Hard to figure how either of those two things would produce that regular pattern along the length. Personally I think that the root cause of the markings must still be there, but the symptoms were exacerbated by the poor fitting gib or it's need for adjustment.

Time will tell

The thread-dial is normally only engaged when threading, and is mounted so the operator can pivot it's gear clear of the lead-screw. Disengage when not in use 'just in case': for the same reason it's good practice to lock unused slides so they can't move before taking a cut.

Lead-screws bend easily because they're long, thin rods with a giant spiral cut out of them. So its best to engage half-nuts and threading dials to them with a minimum of bending force, otherwise the combination of cutting forces and the huge mechanical advantage of a turning lead-screw will lift the saddle and twist anything loose on it against the gibs.

Shouldn't see any obvious up/down or sideways movement when the lead-screw is turning. If a screw misbehaves, check alignments - half-nut settings, end bearing position, and don't push the threading dial hard into engagement. If the set-up is all good, make sure the lead-screw itself isn't bent! They're quite delicate. On an older lathe, wear and tear can cause trouble, and new hobby lathes aren't always assembled as carefully as they might be! It's entirely possible to misalign a lead-screw during assembly, or bend one by rough handling.

Dave

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 26/02/2023 10:39:42

Well it will and to be honest if a bit of regular maintenance/adjustment gives you results that you're satisfied with then that's all that matters.

The only reason I mention it is because the cure doesn't fit the symptoms, so if another person comes along (as it seems is likely to happen) it would be wrong for them to get the impression that such a fault is likely to be caused by a poorly fitted gib, and certainly not any by lash in the cross slide screw and nut.