Warco WM250

John, Les,

Here goes, this is confusing. Connected 24 to 10 and lo and behold switch latched on. I thought O.K. double check so I reconnected in original configuration (through switch) again NVR latched on. Next I removed the belts and turned the motor by hand I could not feel anything that gave cause for concern, same with the spindle. So I thought connect the motor and see what happens, distribution board trips out.

Dusty,

When you say the dis board trips out, can you be a bit more specific please?

You have a dis board inyour garage or workplace, instead of rewireable fuses, it has small circuit breakers?

It may have a rccb or earth leakage circuit breaker....( might have a 'test button' on it )..So which is tripping out?

If it is tripping the rccb/elcb, then disconnect the motor, and try again....if its stops tripping, you may need to remove the motor from the lathe and inspect the brushes and the commutator......

No fuses are blowing?

John, Yes I have a board in my workshop and it is the rccb on the lathe circuit that is tripping out. No have not got fuses other than the one on the lathe and in the plug. Will try again and report back.

Ok,

So you have an earth leakage fault now.....check to make sure you havent trapped any wires on re-assembly....easily done...

Any disturbed wires have gone back to their respective origins?

So, try disconnecting the motor, in its place connect the test lamp used before, power up the lathe and see if the light bulb brightness varies using the speed pot and everything else works as it should.....nvr switch latches, F/R switch is ok......

Edited By John Rudd on 01/02/2017 11:51:06

John, All works as before using the speed control pot, and all wires are connected as they should non being trapped. I am thinking that this may be a motor problem rather than the control circuits, but then what do I know, but I do know what a pot is having worked at Colvern's many years ago, who made high quality wire wound pots mainly for military purposes.

Hmm...so you connected the lamp and all worked well?

So now we need to tackle the motor issue.....?

I will remove the motor, I think I can get to it without moving the lathe, if not I will have to wait until my son-in-law can help. I am afraid it is a bit to heavy for me on my own.

Motor out, what do I need to look for or test. I think it will be a bit of b******r to get back as the hole for the cable is hidden under the chuck guard micro switch. I will have to cross that bridge when I come to it.

Dusty,

Can you post up a foto of it?

John Should find photo's as rquested

Dusty,

With the motor stood vertical, resting on the pulley end, remove the socket head screws from the end cap. Might be better holding the motor by the bracket in a vice....

Gently pull the end cap from the motor body. What do you see on the copper segments?

With a clean paint brush, gently brush the area around the copper bars removing any grey/black dust that you might see. Ensure that there is no dust/debris between the copper segments......

Now turn attention to the motor end cap. Clean inside with the brush removing any traces of dust...If the brushes have come out of their holders, give them a wipe with a clean rag. Place to one side. Where the brush holders are, on the outside of the end cap, there ought to be two plastic slotted screws, remove and place to one side. Refit the motor end cap, screws and brushes, brush retaining caps (slotted plastic screws..) Ensure the motor turns freely and re-install on the lathe....

Hopefully, on re-assembly all is well when you power it up....

Fingers crossed....

Edited By John Rudd on 01/02/2017 15:05:13

Ah this might take a little longer, having removed the two long screws that hold it together, the little so and so will not come apart. I suspect it is only the bearings holding it together. I am confident that I can get it apart but does anyone know of any problems or has taken one of these motors apart. I have taken the precaution of removing the brushes. The other option I suppose, would be to blow it out with an air line. I would prefer to have a look inside just to make sure all is well.

Hi

Would it not have been better to remove the brushes first noting their orientation so that they can be refitted in their original position. In any case the curvature on the brush face/end must match the curvature of the commutator to maintain correct contact and prevent commutator damage.

Martin W

Edited By Martin W on 01/02/2017 16:27:35

Martin, they were removed first and I do know where they go and orientation for replacement, but thank you for the information.

Dusty,

First make sure that there is no swarf in your work area that can be pulled into the motor. Mark both end covers with a scratch across the joint with the motor body so thay go back in their original position. Assuming there is some space between the pulley and the end plate give the end of the pulley end of the shaft a tap with a soft hammer. This should separate the brush end cover from the motor body. Do not remove the armature from the motor body unless you have a good reason to to so. The end cover should pull off easily once the joint with the motor body has been broken.

Les.

Les, the tap did do the trick, but, there is always a but, the bearing in the end cover is holding the end of the armature shaft. Fortunately there is enough room to get a puller on. I will dig it out in the morning and use that. I will set up a workmate in the garden well away from swarf while I clean and put it back together. The body and both ends were marked for relative positions, so one job I will not have to do.

Well motor has been taken apart and cleaned, I was a bit surprised in that it was quite clean inside a little bit of dust but nothing of any consequence. Is there any other tests that I can do on it before putting it back. This will not be until tomorrow now as I am off visiting and will not be home till late.

Dusty, without further test equipment there's nothing more you can do unless you have a friendly motor rewinders near you who could test the motor for you....But it has to be on a dc supply.....

and they could megger it too, to ensure there's minimal leakage to earth....

Other than that, trust to fate...fingers crossed it all works....