Dark Lady Clock

I fitted the planetary gearbox from a portable drill into a steel casing that clamps in my toolpost. Works OK for light milling & drilling, but rarely used now I have a mill.

Neil

The minute wheels...

I always have the thing I can't do at the back of my mind Neil - cylindrical grinding. If a spindle can't do that as well as mill not of much interest.

John

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I made the rash assumption you wanted a milling spindle for milling

Neil

That too Neil. Motor power is a bit of an issue though. Looking in books that have set ups for cutting clock gears on a lathe I'm sure I have seen some that look like they use a 1/4hp output motor at least. Bit heavy cumbersome things on a rigid frame.

Do I need to grind round things - probably not but I can't so it's always tempting. More so now i find I do have a toolpost grinder in need of some (lots) TLC. Geared down it should make a decent milling spindle too. It must have come with a box of bits I bought off some one years and years ago.

John

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Sounds like you need a Potts

Neil

In the plans Brian suggests taking the motor off the drill press temporarily and using that.

I may build a better spindle later with ball races and a more powerful motor.

Overhaed gear? Just because motors became smaller and get one dedicated to each machine or operation doesn't mean the old ways are not worth considering.

Yes, Ian suggested an overhead shaft, I may go that way.
"Old Mo" had a similar arrangement for grinding mower cylinders, a lucrative sideline.
All his shop ran off a Petter engine outside via line shafts, belts and pulleys everywhere, but with almost surreal silence.

This morning's effort, the hour wheel.
I also made the minute wheel stud and marked out the hands ready for tomorrow.

My humble efforts so far (My 1st metalwork project)

Quite a way behind you there John, but getting there very slowly

All the best

John

Edited By John silver on 10/07/2016 12:52:03

Looks very crisp John, I still have more crossing out to do.

Cheers John

I'm no so 'crisp' with the fret saw though I think I'll do the cross members next (I have turned the pinions but not drilled them. For this I'll make a mandrel and use my rotary table)

All the best (another) John

A quick question on the verge cross arm clamp.

As this is the same width of the front main plate ie 25mm and the hole spacing is 19mm, is the intention to have slotted holes in the main plate so that the whole verge plate etc can be slide up and the down the front main plate as required to get anything aligned correctly??

Cheers

John

I set it all up at the right height then marked and drilled the plates. I haven't slotted the holes.
I set the pallet top face level with the top of the scape teeth.

When I rebushed the counter shaft on my lathe and replaced the shaft I extended it to allow the possibility of an overhead drive. One other option is what Schaublin did on the 70's. A double ended motor. The motor sits on a hefty cast iron base and carries an upright shaft for the drive, maybe 30mm dia. It wouldn't be difficult to make one up for suitable lathes. As double ended motors seem to rare just add a countershaft.

I find I have the Ace toolpost grinder though and that can be adapted. Also to make up a tool grinder of sorts. From Pultra info it looks like 1/5 hp out is needed for external grinding running in their case at something like 4,500 rpm. I'd guess that the motors they used were probably conservatively rated suggesting a 1/4 hp would be ideal. A 1/4hp is plenty for milling going on what can be done on a Peatol.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 13/07/2016 10:09:31

A well spent morning assembling the motion and hands.

Looks good john.

John

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Nice mediaeval look to it.

Neil

That's the dial fitted. It still needs numerals and maybe silvered one day.
It is a timepiece.
Next the strike works.