What is a Good Second Steam Engine Model to Build?

Thanks Ramon. Any chance you could point me to where the machining of CRS discussions are on here?

By the way - presumably the CRS stock supplied in the Stuart kits also needs careful machining? I've not seen anywhere on build threads where people have mentioned it or had any particular issues?

Cheers.

Edited By Dr_GMJN on 15/10/2020 08:49:44

If you dont pick out the type of model yourself and do the research on whats available and all of the 'want to build' thinking about things, you will never finish your project.

Building anything needs a lot of dedication, whatever the subject matter. Most if not all model makers have been sidetracked by another project or two or three.

Building the next model means committing hundreds/thousands of hours away to one project. you have to be real sure that is the model for you, not someone else. Ask questions about your chosen design, their are some real rubbish designs hidden away to catch people out and their are some really good designs out there.

Take your time in deciding, dont hurry, and love it before you start.

I don't think there is much on a Victoria that is made from steel that you would need to worry about, the problem mostly rears it's head when you take away a lot of material from one side of your piece of stock and little or none from the other which means the forces within are no longer balanced.

You are likely to see if if reducing say some 5mm x 10mm stock down to 4mm x 10mm and take the 1mm all from one side rather than 0.5mm from opposite sides or if cutting a deep "U" shaped slot you may find the two legs of the "U" closing up.

Thanks Al. The Double Victoria has been on my list ever since I first saw a Stuart catalogue, perhaps as long ago as the 1990's, so it's definitely one I want and will see through to completion. There have been no real issues raised about the model on this thread, and I prefer it to the alternataves proposed, so that's fine. I'll be doing some DIY in terms of the box beds, and sourcing my own materials and fasteners, so that'll add a bit more to my experience.

The traction engine - again I mentioned it as my ultimate ambition. I admit I've not gone into much depth on this in the past, but having researched the 1" Minnie a bit more, it seems ideal for me, and the equipment I have.

I appreciate the comments, and its wise advice to go with something you actually want and like - which I have done, but I've also noted the advice from theis forum too. I think I've got a good way forward. It is going to take years to complete both models, but that's kind of the point. At the end of it the model engineering itch will be well and truly scratched. After that, I'll re-evaluate. Might even get that paper Bismarck finished!

Dr G

I'm afraid I can't point you to a specific thread but the situation has been covered many times. I would think that the steel provided by Stuarts would be the same as described.

This is not a big issue but it can be annoying. As Jason says the problem arises when a cut is taken on one side of a piece of CRS flat/square bar. The side you have just machined then exhibits a nice curve when released from the vice. The deeper the cut the more pronounced this can be.

Shallow cuts and reversing the piece in the vise to equalise the stress relief is a method to overcome this characteristic but as previously said can be a real pain particularly if the part is long and thin. Personally I would choose black bar over bright for most parts that have any substance - get rid of the skin and you have your basic stock material - be prepared though - black bar does not have nice square edges as obtained! Or as said, and lately favoured, mill something from round EN1a.

Apart from the two Con-Rods there isn't going to be much on a Twin Vic that will cause you these issues though getting those cross head bars dead flat from CRS might prove trying - it's just something to be aware of.

Regards - Ramon

Thanks Ramon.

I've just sent the materials list to my friendly local supplier, so we'll see what comes back in terms of price.

Looking at the number of different sections, I think they may well be specified such that some critical parts, such as slideways, don't require much finishing, therefore the distortion issue is reduced. For example on the 10V, the Bright Mild Steel crank webs only needed drilling & reaming, and their ends radiussing. I was wondering why the cylinder ends, valve chest and cover were all cast, perhaps that's why?

Thanks.