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Part built Allchin 1.5 inch

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JasonB28/10/2019 20:21:20
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

Could you redrill for a 3 hole pattern?

derek blake28/10/2019 20:33:31
586 forum posts
151 photos

Hi Jason

um, yes I think there would be room to do that if I can remove the already fixed studs but I’m sure that would be easy.

i will keep that as plan B then, wink

Derek

Jeff Dayman28/10/2019 21:31:09
2356 forum posts
47 photos

Jason's post got me thinking - could you maybe drill and tap a hole next door to the one with the broken tap, say .080 or .090" or so away? That way you could stay with a 4 hole fastener pattern for best chance at a robust seal. A three hole pattern would likely work but the span between bolts is that much bigger than with a 4 bolt setup. Just food for thought.

derek blake28/10/2019 21:36:36
586 forum posts
151 photos

Hi Jeff

interesting I did consider this option, I guess I was trying to keep things close looking to drawing and was scared to attempt yet another hole and tapping process.

this bronze bush seems very hard and was awful to tap, if this Alum truck doesn’t work which I’m not too confident on due to the fact I can’t boil it as it’s suggested I will go for option A or B

the good things is that there are options, it’s yet another bump in the road but there’s normally a way around these things.

Regards

Derek

Richard S228/10/2019 22:27:20
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237 forum posts
135 photos

Persevere with the Alum Derek. I used it to remove a 10 BA broken tap from copper. Took a week using it cold, but came out easily.

derek blake02/11/2019 15:35:19
586 forum posts
151 photos

So I did try the Alum but I felt that it just wasn’t working in the situation I had so I decided to take the next step and that was to drill more fixing holes, not to drawing but functionality is what I require now.

hopefully this will keep it water tight, the hole with no stud will have a dummy fixing in the steam fixing,

8d7ac061-f6a0-4cf4-886f-2a76233f7c78.jpeg

derek blake02/11/2019 15:35:50
586 forum posts
151 photos

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derek blake09/11/2019 17:01:26
586 forum posts
151 photos

So pump clack valve made and seems to work, still some fettling to do so will post picture soon.

boiler cladding worked on today, pleased with the outcome as I found it very tricky to keep it neat.

acf19f98-68f8-4d48-b2de-26674cd4da22.jpeg

derek blake09/11/2019 17:01:58
586 forum posts
151 photos

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Essm09/11/2019 21:07:42
29 forum posts
8 photos

Hi Derek,

that cladding looks really neat so now its your turn to help someone - how thick was the sheet and how did you cut it particularly the circular holes?

any hints and tips would be appreciated

Thanks

Stuart

derek blake09/11/2019 21:31:02
586 forum posts
151 photos

Hi Stuart.

it was 22 gauge soft brass, which came in at around 0.79mm.

i brought 2 sheets off eBay for £16, I first made a cardboard template and then the cut shape out on the brass, what I did have to do was invest in a slip roller to curve the metal.

the hole worked out better than I expected, this was done by laying that template over the curved brass and punching a centre hole and then I used a step drill up to 20mm.

trust me it took a lot of trial and error as my boiler is not spot on, nor is the shape of the cylinder saddle so if yours is even more accurate you should find it even easier.

i did have to remove the trunk guide to fit the sheet, any further info feel free to ask.

hope that helps,

Derek

derek blake09/11/2019 21:39:45
586 forum posts
151 photos

The brass was CZ108

Essm09/11/2019 22:07:24
29 forum posts
8 photos

Thanks Derek

derek blake13/11/2019 18:01:46
586 forum posts
151 photos

Hi All

do any of you know know where you can by very small globe valves, if anyone has seen the Allchin it has two valves that screw onto the steam manifold.

i don’t have the skills or machines to make these so feel I should go down the commercial route, however obviously due to the size I may have to find someone to make these for me.

regards,

Derek

derek blake13/11/2019 20:48:37
586 forum posts
151 photos

I’m also looking to plumb in a commercial injector, the water fitting in the bottom on the commercial is obviously different from the side fitting on the drawing.

this would mean some sort of adapter or to make a pipe work join maybe placing the injector slightly forward.

Do you require the injector to be in a certain position for the water to flow, it’s hard to explain but could I do a pipe from the end of the water valve in a down loop and up into the water inlet.

one idea is like the below picture, someone has made a commercial fitting into the original drawing water valve.

Derek

Edited By derek blake on 13/11/2019 20:51:46

derek blake13/11/2019 20:52:11
586 forum posts
151 photos

162ba207-1b6f-4e39-bc4d-d3115f277525.jpeg

Essm13/11/2019 21:56:30
29 forum posts
8 photos

Hi Derek,

What size is the pipe for the valve? - Maidstone Eng. Supplies have a globe valve for 1/8" pipe

Will that be small enough?

derek blake13/11/2019 22:01:16
586 forum posts
151 photos

Hi Essm

i think 1/8 is correct, I did buy a small globe valve but I still feel it’s too large but I will check again on the website.

thank you.

derek blake13/11/2019 22:03:08
586 forum posts
151 photos

Here’s my idea for the injector fitment, to copy someone else’s design...

67178597-a9fd-4f10-b0e9-ea4acb09915b.jpeg

John Baguley14/11/2019 00:24:47
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517 forum posts
57 photos

Hi Derek,

Steam Fitings also do smallish globe valves that you may be able to adapt:

Globe Valves

I bought a couple of the 1/4 x 40 size for an injector testing boiler. I can measure the diameter if it would help.

Your idea for the water feed for the injector should be fine.

John

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