Own design milling vice

I only have 223 myself - that doesn't include the moving jaw, so I think you would need 224 (which I missed).

224 has the moving jaw drawing and 225 has the last three smaller bit so you would need all three issues.

Fizzy thats not straight off the machine,  some wet and dry on a flat surface and some elbow grease will be required

J

Edited By JasonB on 02/03/2015 18:01:13

John.

It was spread over three issues of the magazine, the concluding part was in issue 225.

Ian

Jason.

You just beat me to it !!

Edited By ian j on 02/03/2015 18:02:54

Apologies for the late reply! .....The final part of the article was in No. 225.

Hi Fizzy, For large-ish areas the best tool I have so far is a flycutter purchased from home and workshop a couple of years back. Whoever made it did a great job and it fits straight in to an ISO 30 spindle and uses a ground Dormer centre drill for the cutting tool. On cast iron a 3 tip indexable face mill is getting heavy use.

I usually finish with a cut of 0.02 - 0.05mm depth depending on the material.

and me! .

.....forgot to mention. I have found it is better to put the chamfers on after the wet and dry work as the paper rounds of the edges and it doesn't look as good. 

I actually prefer a nice light and uniform machined finish but I find this harder to achieve as the tool may pick up some swarf e.t.c and give the odd deeper line. When I get parts made in work their heavy tooling and flood coolant gives and nice even machined finish and its very annoying! .

Edited By Michael Checkley on 15/03/2015 21:05:06

Sand blasting hides light machining marks and is a good key for paint as well.