Myford Industrial Stand Wiring

Hi Robert, I see your wiring diagram with the RS contactor and RS overload relay in your album. I too want to keep the appearance of the panel authentic and use the same buttons (I think the modern DOL plastic controller boxes detract greatly from the beauty of the old Myford). Very many thanks indeed. £40 (£48 incl vat) for the pair at RS is not bad but I will hunt around online for equivalent items used this w/e and will let you know what I come up with. Great help thanks. Adam,

Back again Stephen and Adam. RS is an expensive route but good quality,there plenty of direct on line starters and contactor much cheaper. If you obtain a direct on line starter with a 240 volt coil, you can ignor its RED/GREEN buttons and use the ones origally fitted to the lathe,wired as a remote pair. This usually need a piece of 4 core or two twins,I'm including the earth here (4th core). Often the necessary information is attached inside of the starter. But why not fit an inverter and three phase motor, you will never regret it. Regarding the reversing switch, that is some I have rarely used, I hope Santon is more durable than the Dewhirst.Ted

Thanks Ted. The cheapest 230v single phase DOL starter I found on Ebay was Clarke £37 incl P&P but maybe Robert's RS package at £48 is neater and better and also reusable for 3 phase 240v in future if needed. Not looking to splurge on an inverter and 3-phase motor currently thankyou! Adam

I am glad you like it Adam, it has worked fine for 3 years.
I agree RS is expensive. I was in a rush, also I think I paid a fair bit less in 2011.
The contactor is perhaps over specced as well, so the end result could be achieved a lot cheaper with a bit of research and shopping around. The Santon switch should last a long time as it only carries the starting current and never switches under load, unless you attempt to reverse without stopping. This causes the contactor to safely drop out.
The new contactor and overload are mounted on a short piece of DIN rail.
The DIN rail is secured using the existing screws that were used to fix the original contactor.

My album is now working:

My circuit is a modifed version of one shown here:

**LINK**

Worth a look, as it also contains very useful info about safety and ratings.

Hi Stephen

I take it by now you have probable solved your problem or have moved on. However, I may be able to through some light on your motor wiring question. I have a 1958-60 Myford Super 7 which has an Industrial Cabinet Stand Type 1486/3B and a Metropolitan Vickers single phase 230/240 Volt AC motor fitted.

Wiring:

T2 - RED

A1 - GREEN

A2 - BLUE

T3 - WHITE

If this is helpful I could sen a picture. I have the control panel out at the moment, since I am in the process of refurgishment, so I could make a note of the motor connections and post them on.

Like you I'm on the look out for a wiring diagram for this control system so if you have managed to get a hold of one I would be interested in a copy.

Best wishes

Archie

Be careful with the Clarkes DOL. The one I bought was simply a start and stop switch with an overload trip, does not switch off on power loss and not possible to wire remote buttins. Not what I expected to get for my money. Screwfix do proper DOL starters with electromagnetic contactors, both these and the thermal overloads are reasonably priced and good quality. The plastic case and push buttons not so good but if you use remote buttons it's not a problem.

Hi

I bought a myford ml7 from a friends dad, but when he moved it he cut all the cables, does anyone have a photo of how to wire this one up?

Simon