Air compressers for steam engines

Thanks Jason,I know what to look for now.

As you said Jason, impossible to get hold of.

Not sure where to go from here. I can make an adaptor easy enough but need a bolt or threaded bar?

Tracy Tools can be your friend here:

https://www.tracytools.com/?keyword=7%2F32%22+x+40+tpi&route=product%2Fsearch

For the princely sum of £2.00 + postage.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Hi Dave, whats that for, a bolt?

Thanks,

Terry

As I said you will have to make an adaptor one end to fit the thread and this is where Dave's link to a thread cutting die comes in, the other end either threaded to suite your compressor hose or with a few barbs so you can push a hose on.

Thats fine,thanks.so i need to get some 7/32 rod? I can do the rest no prob ,thank you.

If you have a lathe then something like this from 5/16" or 8mm hex would be ideal.

dont have a lathe but im going to silver solder the two parts together. thanks again.

I made the adapter and the engine turns over like a watch. I’ve found someone who will pressure test it and says I have to remove safety valve, clack valves and plug them. I assume the valve chest and water pump will have to be removed and plugged?

Terry,

Yes the safety valve(s) will need to be removed and blanked or gagged to ensure the 1.5 (or 2x) test pressure can be achieved. The pressure gauge should also be removed and the siphon connection blanked (unless your gauge is ranged to accept the test pressure plus a reasonable margin). The pressure gauge syphon also needs to be blown through to ensure it is clear and the pressure gauge calibrated against a master gauge or dead weight tester. Everything else (clacks, water gauge etc) should be left in place as they are part of the "pressure system". The clacks shouldn't leak or suffer any detriment from the test, they should just seat harder as the pressure increases!

Once you have your cold hydraulic test you need to do a steam test and verify the safety valves lift at the correct pressure and pass sufficient steam to avoid any accumulation (further rise in pressure) you are allowed a margin of 10% over working pressure for accumulation. This is why it's important to calibrate your gauge as that is what you will be referring to in steam so it should be at least checked at working pressure even if not through the entire range.

Paul.

Ive run small engines on a nebuliser

Bob

Thanks Paul, what does 'gagged' mean? Is it just a way of stopping the valve from opening?

Terry

You will need to take the safetys off anyway so that you can get to the regulator port as that will have to be blanked off or held to the portface for testing. No pressure will get to the safety valves. That is assuming it is being treated as a new boiler with no previous record of testing and having a 2X WP test.

Latest test code here, look at 7.5 and section 10

Edited By JasonB on 31/05/2018 15:13:00

I thought Brian needed advice on quiet way to run his engine, these posts are deviating from his question. I to would like some good suggestions, the steam cleaner which I have in the shed and never used, will now be tried out.

Bob.

Well, Brian's post was from seven years ago, and he hasn't posted since, so you can expect some mission creep in that time!

I am still reading though : it is all useful information