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Building lathe/mill in cast of concrete?

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jomac11/04/2011 10:38:58
113 forum posts

Hi. This topic is not much to do with lathes and mills, but it will work the same, because I started to build a 3/4 size snooker table, the " slate" bed was formed from 3 sections, using 3x2 outer frame and the base was 3/4 thick formwork ply, which is waterproof, and each side is varnished, as you only need one former, altering the "pockets" with poly foam, the fixings were Ramset expandable fixings, screwed these to the side frames, but filled the inside with a melted candle to stop the concrete from intruding on to the threads. The inside was layered with strong chicken wire, tied to the bolts with tie wire, (its too thin to weld). and then filled with a strong concrete mix, ie more cement than normal concrete.

I vibrated this with a large industrial Ramset drill, ( using a small workshop hammer drill is not big enough) using a block of wood drilled to take a bolt, made it loose enough to allow it to spin on the bolt, and locked the bolt in the chuck. BUT !!! DONT vibrate too much as the agregate will settle to the bottom and the base and the top and bottom will have only a weak slurry, which will crack, So I pushed the drill and block from below, hitting it it in 10-12 postitions for only a maximum of 10 seconds. You can make a vibrater probe out of plastic pipe fixed to the wooden block and sealed at the end, If you are careful you can hold the pipe from turning, but still vibrate enough the settle the concrete mix to the bottom without air bubbles and voids. As an after thought what if you use a watered down contact adhesive that will run down the inside of a Mill columb and then set, or won"t it go off ???.

Some of the cheap Chinese pool table had so called slate beds, but these were only concrete, coloured grey. and only 3/4 to 1" thick so were very fragile if handled wrongly.

Hope this is some help !!!

PS. its getting cold down here now. Although Autumn is a very pretty time of the year.

John Holloway.

ViKARLL27/09/2011 06:55:12
13 forum posts

Hi Steve,

Interested to find out whether you made any progress?

To mention a bit ‘out of topic’ experience, some time back, I have used a concrete mould to turn out a small classic car part from 22 gauge brass sheet. This was done by making the male and female parts of the sample with concrete and pressing the sheet metal sandwiched between them on a 1-ton arbour press. I made about a 2 dozen pieces but the mould held fine.

I used common Portland cement, granite dust, sand; about 10% epoxy (JB Weld-USA) to reduce the brittleness of concrete. But I think the secret of strength lies in the reinforcement I used. Which is none other than plenty of fine grade steel wool. You have to make a little effort to not let tiny strands of steel wool stick out of the surface.

If you make something like a headstock of a lathe for instance, which can afford thick sections and is not a moving part, the chances are that it should hold.

Hope this helps.

 
Michael Cox 127/09/2011 10:19:23
555 forum posts
27 photos
Hi Steve,
If you join the Yahoo Gingery Machines group there are some articles in the files section about making machines from concrete.
Mike
Richard Parsons27/09/2011 10:59:47
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645 forum posts
33 photos
Steve
I think you will fnd it all on this thread. You have to read down a bit but it is worth it. John McNamara makes a tool grinder out of Mineral aggrigate.
 
Rgds
Dick
 

Edited By Richard Parsons on 27/09/2011 11:00:46

John McNamara27/09/2011 15:39:23
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1377 forum posts
133 photos
Hi Steve
Hermele Germany make state of the art CNC machining centres from "mineral castings" sometimes called "Epoxy Concrete" or "polymer concrete" nearly all their machines use this technique great images in the brochures show the methodology.

Cheers
John
 
 
 
Try other image searches.

Edited By John McNamara on 27/09/2011 15:40:51

Steve Wan27/09/2011 16:37:03
131 forum posts
3 photos
Hi Guys
 
I was delighted that this topic I posted many months ago re-surfaced! With more Chinese made machines saturate the markets one may wish to make instead of buying. Hence I strongly believe that this trend will pick up eventually. Though it was a lost trade. With the new selections of better concrete to withstand vibrations, one can build almost anything!
 
Hopefully along this line some MEW members would come out new products and share around so others can pick up and improve a step further...
 
Once again, thanks so much for the contributions, still on a learning curve.
I'm a member of Gingery yahoo forum, lots of tips there too. They cast alloy lathe/miller/shaper from their backyards. Most of them are from America.
 
Steve
alan frost28/09/2011 00:19:22
137 forum posts
3 photos
Reading the post about vibrating concrete with a hammerdrill and a hardened dowel reminds me of how I vibrated some concrete for some fence post bases. Remember the old Black and Decker sanding attachment that clamped onto the nose of the drill and was driven by an eccentric that screwed into the nose of the drill once the chuck was unscrewed ? I used this screwed into the chuck mounting , without the rest of the sander and bolted a piece of scrap steel bar onto the side of the drill using the alternative handle mount tapping. Ran the drill in fast gear and dipped the bar into the wet concrete.
Vibated like the dickens and worked beautifully producing some very strong post bases.

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