Elliot 10m

Hello all .

I have recently acquired a very nice Elliot M10 Shaper . I have not yet installed it in my workshop as I had to largely dismantle it to bring it home ( in an Audi estate ! ) .

Also as I have no 3 phase power and the Elliot has a 1000 rpm 3 phase motor, I need to address this issue . I had sourced a 6 pole 240 volt motor at about £120 . My alternative is to stick with the original 3 phase motor and buy a VFD off e -bay . The package would be cheaper than changing the motor and would have the advantage of further lowering the machine speed at will .

This project is on hold at the moment as I have two other machines in bits that I must get re-assembled and useable now its not so cold !

MARK

BRIDGNORTH

Hi mark,

I've pm you

Mark

No brainer. Get a VFD and keep the standard motor. Had mine about 15 years and always run it on a VFD. Its as happy as Larry.

Hafta say I rarely use the speed variation capability. Standard 50 hz works well enough on almost everything I do.

Mine is set to take about 3 or 4 seconds to run up which is great for a nice smooth start. I usually hit the VFD start button and immediately drop the clutch so it accelerates smoothly and without drama. If you do things the standard way with the motor running at its rated speed then feed in the clutch it goes off with something of a jerk. Clutch engagement, on mine at least, isn't controllable enough for a nice smooth take off.

Clive

Hello again .

I was wondering about the lubrication of the ram slides - the oiling points look very small . The bearing surfaces on my machine look in very good condition , but if the oiling got missed and the slides ran dry, serious galling could occur and would be a long job to rectify . Has anyone else had a problem here ? I was thinking of installing a pair of sight feed / drip lubricators .

MARK

BRIDGNORTH

Hi Mark there are several of us on here with 10Ms The manual for this machine is available as a download on the net. If you are going to use a VFD make sure you can configure the motor to suit. I will see if I have the download, PM me. Noel

Hi Mark,

I too share you concerns regarding the ram oiling. Matt Look of Look Creations on the Tube made a set of oil cups for his 14M. On the 10M the original oiling points are very close to the ram so do this would be difficult with a oiler with a central spigot. I bought some and wasn’t happy with the way they would have looked. The solution is to either re drill the oiling points further out plugging the existing as required. The other is to make a set with some sort of offset. Thinking this through I think I’ll re drill them where I want them.

The manual is available on the NEMES website.

Hello Mark,

Re. the oiling points being small.

I give them a drop or two of SAE90 gearbox oil and then dribble some more along the ram slides, after cleaning away any debris. This can be a bit messy, but I'd prefer the slides to be well-lubricated than look immaculate and risk a 'dry' spot. I made some felt wipers for the ram at the table end and they help keep most of the oil where it needs to be.

You will need to ensure that the bull-wheel slide block and the 4 oilers above the motor also receive lubrication, together with the link arm pivot, through the slot in the top of the ram.

The VFD option is by far the best way to go, in my opinion.

Regards,

Brian

I'm currently in the process of putting bigger flip top oilers on the ram and putting wipers on there to to keep the oil in

I have been amazed at the shear power of these machines last night I was roughing down some steel at a 4.5 mm depth of cut I'm sure this could he improved as it's the first shaper tool of made

I'm currently in the process of putting bigger flip top oilers on the ram and putting wipers on there to to keep the oil in

I have been amazed at the shear power of these machines last night I was roughing down some steel at a 4.5 mm depth of cut I'm sure this could he improved as it's the first shaper tool of made

Looking good Sean, do you have the cabinet door?

I see you also have an intact gear shift knob, that often get smashed being made of thermoset plastic mine has.. Can you do me a favour? If you have what looks like an original winding handle post some pics with a rule, I need to make one and would like to get it close to the original. Thank you.

Tony

While we have some interest going can I ask those of you running shapers on VFD’s:

Do you use the variable frequency control at all?

If so do you have a low speed button eg to enable running at say 6Hz.

Im at the electrical layout stage and need to decide how to configure everything.

I have a pot on my lathe for frequency control which I never use and a low speed button which I use constantly for clocking, tricky threading and simplly to rotate the Chuck round when snugging up the cam locks or tweaking the 4 jaw .

Thanks

Tony

Tony, if you want email me at [email protected] I can send you pictures of my machine with a replacement gear shift knob and what I believe to be an original winding handle, or at least it came with the machine and fits. I have never had any need to shift the gear or change the belt on the pulleys as it does everything I want of out of it on one speed. I just adjust the length of stroke and ram position occasionally to encompass the job in hand.

Hello Tony,

Yes, I use the variable speed regularly, as well as the 'jog' control which can be adjusted to your preference.

It is ideal to check a set-up - so long as you are holding the clutch lever, just in case anything doesn't look right.

Regards,

Brian

Hi Mark

I replaced the four individual oil points for the gear shafts with airline fittings and nylon hoses to a central oil pot.Mounted under the casting that extends from the back of the main body just below the ram. The ram oil point were replaced with small cups with screw on caps ( 1/4 flare refrigeration fittings).

There is some pics in my album.

Regards Kevin

My gear shift knob is not orginal the orginal ones where not ball shape

The vfd functions I believe are very useful I think the elliot 10m slowest speed is still a little fast for roughing

Here is my drawing for the gearshift knob. My intention is to make it from acetal, my friend has a cnc router and the intention is tfor him to do the lettering . It will probably take a few trial runs to perfect, if all else fails I’ll leave it plain. If anyone would like a copy of the 3D model just let me know.