Andrew Tinsley | 08/12/2020 15:33:05 |
1817 forum posts 2 photos | Not really a paradox. Like monkeys writing Shakespeare. Given enough monkeys and a huge amount of time, it can happen! I have seen other CLM 500 Ms that really were dreadful, makes me wonder if the good one was a special, sample touting for orders maybe? Andrew. |
old mart | 09/12/2020 18:07:32 |
4655 forum posts 304 photos | Whatever machinery you have, it is always best to make the most of what it is able to produce. A good machinist can get better results than I could with any machine. |
Stuart Cox 3 | 29/01/2021 06:41:38 |
130 forum posts 25 photos | Posted by john halfpenny on 01/07/2020 15:09:30:
In the lockdown I have implemented some of the mods collected over the years. I bought this lathe secondhand more than 25 years ago, and although it has a poor reputation, it has served me well as a bench top lathe. I can now afford something 'better', but it's capacity and familiarity have always won through. The controls lack a quality feel, but accuracy has been fine; yesterday I clocked run-out on the three jaw (using a ground bar) at 0.0003 tir, which is pretty good I think. Some years ago I fitted a VFD, which solves the problem of a minimum speed which is too high, as well as giving a smoother, quieter drive. First is an extended banjo to permit l.h. screw thread cutting. There is room for an extra gear to reverse rotation of the lead screw. I needed this to make a new screw for extending the travel of the tailstock barrel by 25mm. Last is a reversed tailstock. This is possible because the bed is flat and the barrel is on a through bore. It substantially improves reach over the saddle, but requires the barrel clamp to be moved to the other end, which requires a block to be bolted in place, and boring of a 25mm through hole. Well done John! I too have been busy adding a few mods to mine, I added a variable speed brushless motor and also made a reverse lever for the leadscrew. It is very satisfying to make improvements. I like the tail stock mod you've made, could you pm me the details of how you tackled that please? I do find the lack of reach a bit frustrating on mine Thanks Stuart
|
Stuart Cox 3 | 29/01/2021 06:53:02 |
130 forum posts 25 photos | |
john halfpenny | 29/01/2021 08:57:27 |
314 forum posts 28 photos | There was an article in MEW maybe 10 years ago which described one persons take. I did it slightly differently. The main casting is reversible on the bed, and the barrel bore is plain, so the barrel can also be reversed. You will need to substitute some M10 or M12 left hand thread (easy to get on ebay) to keep rotation of the tailstock handle in the same sense. The barrel clamp is moved to the top by adding a square block to the back of the tailstock housing and drilling a through bore down at the interface. You will need to lightly skim or file the casting flat where the block attaches. If you dismantle your tailstock, it should all be clear. Photos follow. |
john halfpenny | 29/01/2021 09:01:37 |
314 forum posts 28 photos | Pictures show the block for the barrel clamp, and a spare screw which I made for a colleague with the same lathe, but havn't delivered due to lockdown. john halfpenny on 29/01/2021 09:05:33 Edited By john halfpenny on 29/01/2021 09:07:34 Edited By john halfpenny on 29/01/2021 09:11:13 |
Stuart Cox 3 | 29/01/2021 09:38:26 |
130 forum posts 25 photos | Thanks John, that's very helpful! I will give it a go and see how I get on. Just out of curiosity do you find you have less rigidity when the tailstock is at full reach? The only reason I ask is there is obviously more overhang from the base of the tailstock. Thanks Stuart |
john halfpenny | 29/01/2021 10:04:55 |
314 forum posts 28 photos | Not noticed any change in rigidity - mostly drilling, so no problem. It's a worthwhile mod if you lose some clearance due to a DRO, which you can see in my pics on the tailstock side of the saddle. Also, you may want to adjust the length of the screw to get full barrel travel - I pushed mine up from 35 to 50mm. I recall needing to fiddle with length of the screw to get the barrel zero mark aligned with the mouth of the bore when the barrel is fully reversed - not absolutely necessary, but satisfies my ocd. |
john halfpenny | 29/01/2021 13:25:38 |
314 forum posts 28 photos | Stuart, you will also need to reposition the key which prevents the barrel rotating. Simply drill through the casting to the bore, and make a small hole on the opposite side to suit the key stub. The axial position is not critical, and you can see where I have plugged the hole with a button oiler. A second new oiler lubricates adjacent the handwheel, the originals being now redundant. |
Stuart Cox 3 | 29/01/2021 13:42:31 |
130 forum posts 25 photos | Thanks John. I will probably have some questions when I get time to have a look, hopefully I can call on you if I do? Many thanks Stuart |
not done it yet | 29/01/2021 14:47:52 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | That mod is OK as long as you don't want the full length of the bed for machining between centres... It’s all a compromise. |
Stuart Cox 3 | 29/01/2021 16:07:05 |
130 forum posts 25 photos | Posted by not done it yet on 29/01/2021 14:47:52:
That mod is OK as long as you don't want the full length of the bed for machining between centres... It’s all a compromise. Its a good point! but for me it's not a forseeable problem. Thanks NDIY |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.