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ML7 Genuine Gears vs Replacement

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Clive Brown 110/05/2020 10:58:28
1050 forum posts
56 photos

I'm intrigued by the idea of a set of change-wheels becoming completely worn out. Lathe must have done a helluva lot of work.

Michael Gilligan10/05/2020 10:59:31
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by Brian Wood on 10/05/2020 10:39:19:

Jeremy,

You were asking about the quality of Myford gears.

Many years ago I was able to attend one of Myford's open days at Beeston [and very interesting it was too just to digress]

[…]

The point of the story is that there was no special ' Myford mystique' being shown here, this was a bog standard operation used daily. There might have been a hobbing machine elsewhere to speed up the task, we didn't see everything.

Regards Brian

.

I agree completely, Brian

That story may, in itself, reveal the ‘special’ feature of Myford at Beeston ... They did things in ways that we can relate-to, and with a level of skill and dedication to which we can aspire.

I have never seen the new manufacturing facility, but it would be good to think that the spirit persists, even if the processes have been updated.

MichaelG.

Hopper10/05/2020 11:49:28
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7881 forum posts
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Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 10/05/2020 10:58:28:

I'm intrigued by the idea of a set of change-wheels becoming completely worn out. Lathe must have done a helluva lot of work.

Maybe he got the gears off one of Martin Cleeves' Myfords used for commercial screw manufacturing? Could be historic gears them. Wonder where the matching lathes are?

Like I said earlier, I have bought almost two full sets of change gears secondhand and never seen a worn out one. So I suspect the ones in question came from a machine that was exceptionally well used. Possibly in a commercial workshop or a production environment. Or a very very enthusiastic string of model engineers. The change gears on my Drummond have been going since 1937 with no noticeable wear of the ilk described. My ML7 since 1957 and ditto. The bed was worn out. The gears appear just fine, including the standard set of fine power feed gears that appeared to have been on the lathe all its life.

That's not to say there is anything magic about Myford gears. They were just common a garden cast iron gears, cut as we have been told, in a milling machine with a dividing head. Pretty standard stuff for small to mid-volume engineering works of the era. It's just that they don't transmit a lot of power, don't get a lot of use in hobby shops, and are in a pretty friendly low-rpm environment free of abrasive grit, heat etc So normally do not see much wear of the type described.

Yeah, I wonder what the rest of the lathe looked like?

Edited By Hopper on 10/05/2020 11:51:30

Ronald Morrison10/05/2020 11:55:24
98 forum posts
4 photos
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 10/05/2020 10:22:59:
Posted by Jeremy Upton on 09/05/2020 19:44:02:

...

I have have a Myford ML7R which ... did not come with a full set of standard gears. ... I purchased a used genuine vintage Myford set off an auction site only to find nearly half of them appear to have a lot of wear/loose mesh.

...

Any chance of photos please? The 'genuine vintage Myford' gears may be nothing of the kind, or badly worn.

Although there's much to be said in favour of Myford lathes, they're not immune to wear and tear or any of the other bad things that happen to old tools over several decades.

Worse, because Myford's reputation attracts buyers like starving wasps to jam, grotty machines are tarted up, or badly assembled from cannibalised wrecks, and good machines are separated from their tools and accessories to bump up profits. How good a refurbished machine is depends on who did it, and there are some right bozos out there!

The problem extends to spares. Myford parts are imitated and counterfeited, and - allegedly - modern parts from the current owner aren't as good as the originals. There's even stuff sold mentioning Myford in the description that has nothing to do with Myford! Plus an enthusiastic market for Myford spares sourced from breakers, car-boot sales, and deceased workshops; the state of these varies from junk to as-new, plus fakes.

When faced with an engineering problem, best to eliminate possibilities. At the moment, it could be the gears aren't Myford at all! But that's pessimistic: another simple possibility is the gears aren't being assembled on the banjo correctly, which is easy to fix when you know how.

Though Jeremy's four questions may become valid later, I suggest concentrating on:

'What's wrong with these gears in this set-up?' (Picture needed.)

Provided they can be made to mesh, change gears don't have to be high-tech. Their purpose is just to generate a ratio, and even crudely made and worn gears perform. Ugly noisy gears spoil pride of ownership though, and many people work best with tools they like, and are irritated by minor imperfections. No point in owning tools you hate! If that's the problem with these gears, the only thing to be done is try again. I don't know of a guaranteed way of buying a set of perfect original ML7 change gears other than by inspecting them first.

Dave

Some of us on the west side of the Atlantic are using 3D printed plastic gears for our change gears. They are cheap as dirt to print and with minimal CAD skills we can create gears with any number of teeth to fit any diameter of shaft. The plastic gears have different wear characteristics than metal gears which may be an advantage but in any case, once the gear is designed and the CAD file saved, one can remake any of the plastic gears for pennies.

not done it yet10/05/2020 12:19:12
7517 forum posts
20 photos

The plastic gears have different wear characteristics than metal gears which may be an advantage but in any case, once the gear is designed and the CAD file saved, one can remake any of the plastic gears for pennies.

I agree with the first part and intend making some, initially in PLA, even though I don’t actually need any change gears.

However, I am intrigued as to how you cost them. I reckon a couple of quid, or more, is realistic

I’m only a beginner with my printer and I have not got so far as to try cheap filaments, but it seems as though it would take hours to print a fairly solid gear? Thinking, here, of perhaps a 50 tooth DP14 gear about 9//16” thick.

Howard Lewis10/05/2020 14:41:25
7227 forum posts
21 photos

Gears for Myford MlLlathes, are to the best of my knowledge 20DP and 14.5 pressure angle.

More modern lathes are likely to use 20 P A, so should not be meshed with 14.5. Maybe an incorrect mixture is responsible for the incorrect meshing?

Broke for lunch

I have cut 20 DP gears in steel, for use on my ML7 and for others ML4s, without apparent problems in use.

In some of the more modern machines, (using Module gears ) I suspect that Plastic gears are used as a weak link in the drive, so that they fail before more expensive parts are damaged.

If it needs to be said, gears should not be run without backlash, since this promotes noise, and more importantly, wear.

A suitable way of setting backlash is to run two thicknesses of writing paper through each mesh. I usually start with the mesh with the gear on the Mandrel, or the Tumbler Reverse, since these are fixed in position, and work my way down the train towards the Leadscrew.

As Hopper says backlash should not be a problem when screwcutting, as long as a suitable space is allowed before the tool engages for the next cut, to ensure that backlash has been taken up.

HTH

Howard  Fat fingers strike again!

Edited By Howard Lewis on 10/05/2020 14:46:23

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