Taper Pins

Hi Vic,

Looks like it to me! So pinning the handle seems to be the way to go

The nuts will minimise end float of the Leadscrew relative to the Cross or Top Slide body, but can't do anything about backlash between the Leadscrew and the main nut.

Howard

Hi Chris,

Looking at your picture below the pin is clearly visible so would be easy enough to remove if necessary.

The later Myford builds had the pin machined flush with the center ball and after many years it became virtually impossible to locate the ends of the pin making removal a real headache.

Your Myford built lathe, 1944 is it, clearly has Drummond made parts which would probably be right at that time.

The handle looks like Drummond made one , a slighty different shape to the later Myford handles, although the handle knob remained the same throughout. The bridge plate is a Drummond, the later Myford plates were countersunk for the three cheese head screws.

Geoff

Brilliant that's really fascinating. I was really after a Drummond badged one but seems like I got closer than I thought.

This one was only a mile away from home and had been there for the last 40 or so years.

Thank you very much for the info! Oh yes sent you a PM too.

Chris.

Nobody has mentioned the pleasure that fitting a taper pin into a freshly reamed hole gives. Maybe I'm an old saddo but it always brings a smile to my face.

I have only used pins around 1/4" to 5/16" and never felt the need to use a tapered drill.

Keep smiling and keep safe.

Hope to join you in that special club sometime before too long !

Thanks for your input hope it was tapered 😊

Chris.

Didn’t this count on that score?

I was chuffed when the job was done and the pin fitted as perfectly as I could expect, and the hole through the inner shaft was adequate without being excessive.

So there's two in the club, my memberships still pending!

Not Done it Yet, yes of course it does. I apologise for not looking picking up on it. It is an ace feeling isn’t it❓😉✅

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 10/05/2020 22:33:05

I usually get things right by the second attempt but have, in the past, needed three goes at some things before getting the hang of the machining ‘rules’ for the job! This one went smoothly, as these days I go more slowly and think ahead carefully.

Having multiple chucks around allows me to avoid having to swap out workpieces (from the chuck, at least). This particular job was one of those 🙂 and was fitted in among other on-going work. Three chucks and two mills in operation (not all at the same time!). My first chuck back plate was very pleasing, as I recall, from long ago. Since then, most jobs have been repairs, modifications or making replacement parts - no model engines to be completed or anything like that.

As it was the first tapered pin I had attempted (I don’t particularly relish small fiddly bits and pieces) it was satisfying to get it right as I knew as soon as I fitted the pin to the hole that tapers matched perfectly and my time had been well spent. Any more will be easy as it is always the first one that is most troublesome. Only having the one small tapered reamer (of unknown taper) made it important not to get that part of the job wrong. I may never need to do it again, who knows?

At my age I am quietly satisfied when things go well first time. I neither get euphoric over things nor too P’d off if things donn’t go entirely to plan. I just set to and try to do it better, if things go pear-shaped.

Let’s face it, this little job would have been ‘run of the mill’ for a proper machinist!

Maybe slightly off topic, but if you can't find a cross pin or taper pin in a collar or similar on a shaft, clean the outside diameter of the collar well, almost to a polished finish then apply very gentle heat, if you are lucky a small tell tale ring of grubby oil will appear around the pin .

Doesn't always work but it's helped me out in the past, I used to have to repair print machinery, the makers used to file the pins down and polish the surface, a nightmare to find. Works best on things that have lived in an oily environment, fails miserably on food machinery that's never seen oil or grease!.

Dave

Crack testing fluid an alternative?