Member postings for ANDY CAWLEY

I am who you suspect I am😉✅.

My main motoring experiences are with chain driven cars however I did once nearly buy a 1925 AC Royal 11.9 which did have a worm final drive. I can confirm that it did not have problems on the over-run.

This one’s actually in my shed! I can see I’ll have to cobble up some method of getting it working😉

I haven’t actually operated it yet but my understanding is that it runs powered by a weight on a rope wrapped round the wooden drum. The fly is there to keep the speed down presumably by air resistance. There is a neat arrangement that rings the bell when when the. Rope is nearly all run off the drum thus warning the cook to rewind the rope.

Michael Gillian, thank you for the worm thought, why didn’t I think of that🤔✅.

Chris LH, the unusual feature of this device is that the worm is driven whereas in most applications the worm is the driver.

This is a photo of a weight driven clockwork spit (somehow or other it got up loaded on its side, sorry,) that I have a mind to make. The speed regulating “fly?”is driven by a helical wheel engaging an appropriate spiral pinion.

This has come out on its side😠 as well.
The pitch of the spiral is about 5/16”, it’s major diameter is about 5/8” and the minor diameter5/16”.
My guess that the spit is 18th century and might be French, these are only guesses.
All of the other pinions are lantern pinions and I can get my head round those but how is a spiral, if that is the right word, made.

Does anybody out there have any ideas an if necessary correct my terminology as my Google searching has been fruitless. I have found many pictures of clockwork spits but no information about manufacturing a spiral pinion.

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 18/11/2022 17:48:24

**LINK**

here it is‼️

After all the blethering what was the intended use that you hoped for this useful tool ❓

Ooooh now you’ve started something 👍😁✅😎

I like it👍

Well said jaCK Hobson. ✅

I am dumbfounded that you would draw such a conclusion from what appear to be the very small number of poor reviews out of over 100 excellent reviews.

As far as I can make out you have never even handled one of these devices. How on earth can you come to the conclusion, based on such flimsy evidence, that the pin you refer to will bend.

Why do you think the Mole grips will cope better than the Stanley 85-610. What is your evidence or practical experience?

if I hadn’t spent a life in manufacturing industry occasionally dealing with opinionated folk who usually didn’t know what they were talking about I could get upset by your casual “ no disrespect” remark but I won’t. Like you say, I don’t have to read your post.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 28/05/2021 00:43:13

Yes, it is rather odd, it’s as if he had not read my post at all.

Never mind a large rusty nut, what I can tell you is that with in the limits of my strength I have not managed to break it. I have used it on a nut of approximately 25mm and applied as much torque as my 100kgs+ will allow without and I have gripped the grippy thing with as much force as my hands will allow. I have not used additional lever arms. The spanner is still fully operational without any signs of headache that often afflicts adjustable spanners. There is probably a good reason they are only 10” long.
By the way the photoshopped images all looked the same to me.
For twenty quid you can have one on your door step to morrow, what are you fussing about?

if you turn your head on one side hopefully you will get the picture which is intended to show how much grip is available

Yes I I have used the spanner on very tight nuts. The technique is to wind the jaws in as tight as possible on the thumb screw with the locking mechanism open then apply the locking action, this removes any play that may have been there. I have never used it as a small piece work holding device but it has occurred to me in the past(before this thread started) that it gripped nuts firmly. Typically I use it as a third hand (typically on the underside of a chassis) where it grips a nut and can be left to its own devices whilst I have at the bolt head with two hands. I was recommended the tool by a fellow vintage motorist and I found mine on Amazon by its reference number which is embossed on the handle.

I can report that the comments about the Stanley tool are unfounded. I have had and used one of these for some years now and can’t imagine that they would “be quite easy to destroy”. I think to do so would require a level of clumsyness that I find difficult to imagine exists among this group.

Build quality is in the eye of the beholder, try one they really do work.

Drat! Spotted this at 10:30, too late to join.

I don’t suppose I’m the only one to be date disoriented by this lockdown lark but boy does it frustrate🙁.

I’ve just spotted this, a day too late🙁. It sounds like a brilliant idea.
Are zoom meetings available on “catch up”?

I’ll second Rollasons, I’ve still got my well thumbed copy👍

I checked the spindle speeds of my Chinese import lathe some yeas ago using the sweep hand on my wrist watch, a length of all thread, a nut and a felt tip marker pen. All of these items were in my shed so I didn’t have to spend any money.

I put two marks on the rod as far apart as possible. Whilst holding the nut by hand I ran the lathe at various speeds and timed its travel between the two marks. Having measured the distance between the marks and knowing the pitch of the thread it was simple enough to calculate the rpm. I made sure the free end of the rod was inside the tail stock to guard against the possibility of flailing should the rod get out of hand. I was very conscious of this possibility however things never really showed any signs of running amok.

The speed control on the machine was a simple rotary knob so I put marks on the machine casing using the marker pen and wrote speeds against the marks.

I make no claims about the precision of this method but it was good enough and dead easy to do and it got me going with the lathe. The further apart the marks are the more accurate the results.