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Overload trip

8 watt 250 volt AC motor / gearbox.

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Tim Stevens09/02/2019 11:54:41
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1779 forum posts
1 photos

If you could mount the motor so that it is able to pivot - like the dynamos and alternators on cars - you could use a spring to hold the motor on one side of the slack, with a switch to turn off the input if the motor moved to the stalled side. You would need to adjust the spring tension so that in the stall condition, as the motor tries to haul itself towards the driven side, the stalled movement always operates the switch. Use a switch that turns off and stays off (not a microswitch) to avoid any tendency for the motor and spring to bounce to and fro when stalled.

Not the best explanation I have offered, but I hope you see what I mean.

Regards, Tim

Michael Gilligan09/02/2019 13:02:24
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

In the absence of a picture of Stephen's mechanism ... this might be a useful reference: **LINK**

https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/18836/lot/286/

[ ignore the green movement, that's not a Wilding clock ]

_____________________________________________

I would like, if I may, to expand a little on yesterday's suggestion:

My thinking is that a 'missing pulse detector' would be the optimum solution.

The logic would be very simple:

  • IF the Mercury Switch is closed AND the pulse train is active THEN all is well, so allow it to continue.
  • IF the Mercury Switch is closed AND the pulse train is NOT active THEN there is a jam, so isolate the motor.

The pulse generator could sense motor rotation, chain movement, or wheel rotation [etc.] according to taste.

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 09/02/2019 13:20:48

Brian Oldford09/02/2019 17:36:33
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686 forum posts
18 photos
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 09/02/2019 10:34:57:
Posted by not done it yet on 09/02/2019 05:08:57:

Check its stall current and fit a slow-blow fuse? ...

Probably not necessary to be that clever. An 240V 8W motor will draw 33mA at full load. We don't know how hard the motor works when winding the clock, but it might be a significant proportion of 8W if it lifts a heavy clock weight in 10 seconds. Even so, the fuse only has to cope with a short burst of current. 32mA is a standard size instrument fuse and I'd use the ordinary fast blow version. It shouldn't blow when presented with 33mA for only 10 seconds and it's more likely to blow quickly if the motor is genuinely in trouble.

A suitable holder and box would also be necessary - this type of fuse won't clip into a mains plug!

When looking at the fuses listed by RS Components I noticed they're using a new-to-me suffix to encode the fuse type. In case the scheme is unfamiliar to anyone else:

FF - very fast blow
F - fast blow (the common type)
M - medium blow
T - slow blow
TT - very slow blow

Dave

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 09/02/2019 10:37:30

You overlooking the even faster fuses. They have three legs. We usually call them transistors. cheeky

SillyOldDuffer09/02/2019 18:58:15
10668 forum posts
2415 photos
Posted by Brian Oldford on 09/02/2019 17:36:33:
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 09/02/2019 10:34:57:
Posted by not done it yet on 09/02/2019 05:08:57:

...

...

When looking at the fuses listed by RS Components I noticed they're using a new-to-me suffix to encode the fuse type. In case the scheme is unfamiliar to anyone else:

FF - very fast blow
F - fast blow (the common type)
M - medium blow
T - slow blow
TT - very slow blow

Dave

You overlooking the even faster fuses. They have three legs. We usually call them transistors. cheeky

Isn't that kind of comment called a 'low blow' . Groan.

I should be on the stage. There's one leaving right now...

Dave

Stephen Spice09/02/2019 19:23:25
21 forum posts
52 photos

Dear very helpful people,

I started to reply to individuals not being used to this sort of thing. perhaps being born in 1935 has something to do with it.

I am absolutely amazed at the number of people offering to help. And again the vast variety of suggested solutions.

I really aught to go and sit in the corner and try to digest it all.

Are you all single people having no one saying " shall we go and do the shopping now ? "

Should I suggest driving lessons. Perhaps not, we all need to keep safe.

I might have taken pics of he set up and maybe the problem if only I can remember how to post them. I will have a look.

Michael Gilligan's link shows the electric winding set up but not very clearly

Because this problem seemed to be one that I was not going to solve. I have started to alter the clock to hand wind. But will certainly reinstate the electric winding as soon as possible.

Many thanks to all who are trying to help and the mind boggles when you consider the vast number of people who are actually looking and perhaps not taking part.

Stephen ( Old Spice )

Michael Gilligan09/02/2019 19:47:05
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

Stephen ... We love this sort of thing !!

If you could give details of the motor, that would probably help.

[Sorry; I've just been searching on the BHI archive, but still can't find the specified item]

MichaelG.

John Haine10/02/2019 09:08:07
5563 forum posts
322 photos

I like the suggestion of using a geared synchronous motor of the type used to operate central heating valves.

Rather than winding a chain/weights, have a spiral spring remontoir. If this was selected and properly geared it could drive the great wheel arbor, running at the same speed so the spring is always kept would the same. Or, use an arrangement as on Clock B where the motor runs a worm lifting a weight on a lever applying torque to the great wheel, with a mercury switch to control its level.

If you took the first approach, you could even dispense with most of the clock and just drive the hands direct...wink

I'll get my coat...

not done it yet10/02/2019 11:59:08
7517 forum posts
20 photos

Shirley while raising the weights, all gravitational derived force is removed from the mechanism, so the clock would lose time while winding- (or stop if the raising took a long time)?

Michael Gilligan10/02/2019 12:13:23
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by not done it yet on 10/02/2019 11:59:08:

Shirley while raising the weights, all gravitational derived force is removed from the mechanism, so the clock would lose time while winding- (or stop if the raising took a long time)?

.

Huygens sussed how to avoid that problem ... a while back.

MichaelG.

.

Edit: This video is longer than it needs to be, but demonstrates the action nicely:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JV1IXvoULs

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 10/02/2019 12:18:54

Stephen Spice13/02/2019 19:39:08
21 forum posts
52 photos

Michael,

Your youtube demonstrates exactly how this works.

My photo's will show two bobbins operating the mercury switch and with a weight resting on the clock weight and a second tension weight. As the main weight raises or falls the switch is tilted.

Stephen S.

SillyOldDuffer13/02/2019 22:05:01
10668 forum posts
2415 photos

Posted by Stephen Spice on 13/02/2019 19:39:08:

...

My photo's will show ...

Stephen S.

Nice clock! I particularly enjoyed this touch:

Must be a grasshopper escapement...

smiley

Dave

Mike Poole14/02/2019 00:01:20
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3676 forum posts
82 photos

Rotation detectors are used in industry to detect belt or shaft breakage in critical applications and as posters above have suggested could be an approach to monitoring this application. A thermistor to monitor temperature could work but it really needs to be embedded in the windings to offer the best protection, it could be game over by the time the frame reaches a critical temperature.

Mike

Michael Gilligan27/08/2019 15:31:06
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

I am resurrecting this thread just to add reference to a two-page article in Horological Journal, dated September 2019

Brian Robertson writes about making the 'Claude Reeve Four-Legged Gravity Escapement Regulator' and includes brief details of his 'Huygens Loop' electric winding.

MichaelG.

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