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Restoration and modifications to a Tom Senior light vertical mill

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Miles Hellon31/12/2018 13:22:13
62 forum posts
26 photos

Hi Nick,

I remember seeing some photos showing the inside of Atlas Works but can't find them again...

ANDY CAWLEY31/12/2018 16:57:20
190 forum posts
50 photos
Posted by Nick Thorpe on 31/12/2018 11:32:04:

Hi Miles. For alignment after moving the head out, I would wind the table up, put a large square on it and align the vertical part of the square with the machined slot on the left side of the head. For complete accuracy I would trammel the head with a dial indicator.

Regards, Nick.

ts.jpg

Edited By Nick Thorpe on 31/12/2018 11:45:51

Just had a thought whilst reading this post. Why not weld a suitable size disc to a shaft and true it off in the lathe. Transfer the assembly to the mill and put the shaft in the chuck. Raise the table to the disc and slacken the head arrangement and allow the table and the disc to align. Bingo one trammed in head.

Its probably an old idea or there's something I haven't thought of, happy new year anywaysmiley.

Miles Hellon31/12/2018 18:03:58
62 forum posts
26 photos

Thanks Andy,

Yes, that's a good method.

I realise this isn't a serious drawback of the machine. I'm just somewhat addicted to modifying things smile

ANDY CAWLEY31/12/2018 18:39:05
190 forum posts
50 photos
Posted by Miles Hellon on 31/12/2018 18:03:58:

Thanks Andy,

Yes, that's a good method.

I realise this isn't a serious drawback of the machine. I'm just somewhat addicted to modifying things smile

Aren't we all?wink

Miles Hellon02/01/2019 13:27:10
62 forum posts
26 photos

I've just sketched out my initial thoughts:

ts mod. 1.jpg

ts mod. 2.jpg

Miles Hellon02/01/2019 17:57:51
62 forum posts
26 photos

The idea is to keep everything within the original top cover, which will have a couple of slots added to access the new controls.ts mod. 3.jpg

Miles Hellon02/01/2019 19:20:55
62 forum posts
26 photos

Maybe something like this?

ts mod. 4.jpg

Simon Williams 303/01/2019 12:07:21
728 forum posts
90 photos

Hello one and all, and best wishes for a Happy New Year.

I've got one of these little beauties, and I have moved the ram probably twice in the last ten or fifteen years. But it all depends on the size of work you want to get at.

A more significant restriction to me is that the X leadscrew isn't fully threaded. As a consequence there is an area about 12 inches wide at the right hand side of the table I can't traverse under the head. Is this the case with yours?

I've been considering remaking the lead screw to improve this, but it's a lot of work and I haven't yet summoned up the courage to cut my first ever square thread. And it's metric, my lathe has got an imperial leadscrew.

However I'm really curious to know how many speeds your mill has got. Tony Griffiths' archive says these had 5 later six speeds, I reckon mine is a fairly late model but it only has four speeds selectable by moving the drive belt within the head.

The modification I did carry out after a lot of thought was to change the bearing supporting the driven pulley atop the quill to needle rollers. The original bronze bearing was pretty poorly so I needed to do something with it and decided to go for gold. There are pictures in my album of the results.

All the best Simon

Miles Hellon03/01/2019 13:39:09
62 forum posts
26 photos

Hi Simon,

Pic of the RH end of my leadscrew below. It's threaded up to 150mm from the collar. I get 15" of travel, which is the spec. given in the earliest catalogue for the 25" table.... The later machines, like ours, with the 28" table should have 17" of travel.... Hmmmm...

Mine has four speeds.

It's interesting that some of the catalogues give needle roller bearings for the tail end of the S head spindle and some give Bronze bearings, and not in the order you'd expect...

What is the serial No. on yours? Mine is V3967

From the table posted on the Yahoo group:

1975 .................... 3627

1976 .................... 3727

1977 .................... 3806

1978 .................... 3896

1979 .................... 4008

1980 .................... 4113

1981 .................... 4165

1982 .................... 4238

1983 .................... 4290

p1030612.jpg

Simon Williams 303/01/2019 15:10:04
728 forum posts
90 photos

Hi Miles, well I can confirm that mine has the 28 inch table, and the view of the screw looks exactly the same. But where is the serial number?

Best rgds Simon

Miles Hellon03/01/2019 15:28:16
62 forum posts
26 photos

Hi Simon,

Serial number should be stamped into the front face of the slideway at the top right of the main column.

So, you have 15" of travel?

Limit of travel at the RH end is the leadscrew support casting hitting the face of the lower section of the slideway. The first rib of the casting is 2.5" from the face. Not sure what's limiting travel at the LH end yet....

Kind regards,

Miles

Miles Hellon03/01/2019 16:02:09
62 forum posts
26 photos

Ha! Loosening the screws on the LH leadscrew support and lifting it as far as the screw hole allows gives just enough clearance for it to pass the face of the lower section. This gains the lost 2"!

As far as gaining more movement at the RH end, the face of the leadscrew nut is 225mm in. So, lack of thread can't be the problem. The leadscrew collar would hit the rib at 30mm beyond the present limit.... Anyway, there is 30mm to be gained there with more radical action.....

Kind regards,

Miles

Edited By Miles Hellon on 03/01/2019 16:02:25

Edited By Miles Hellon on 03/01/2019 16:04:23

ian j03/01/2019 16:08:28
avatar
337 forum posts
371 photos

Just measured the table travel, on my 1975 machine fitted with a 28" table, as 17.3"

Limit of travel at the LH end is the leadscrew support casting hitting the feednut/housing

Ian

Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 16:09:16

Miles Hellon03/01/2019 16:15:10
62 forum posts
26 photos

Thanks Ian.

Is your limit at the RH end when the leadscrew support casting hits the face of the lower section?

Kind regards,

Miles

Simon Williams 303/01/2019 16:36:16
728 forum posts
90 photos

Hello Miles, thanks for that. I've completely changed my theory that mine is a late model, as the serial number is V3485, which puts it off the scale into prehistory. I'd assumed given the 28 inch table that it was later rather than earlier, but who knows, maybe that isn't the original table!

The other revelation is that the table movement is 13 inches (12-7/8 actually) not 15, let alone any more. The stop going towards the right is the leadscrew tail bracket contacting the knee, the stop going left is the leadscrew running out of thread. Travel going right isn't the issue for me, the cutter is just about over the left end of the table by the time the movement stops anyway, but I don't understand why the right hand area of the table is out of limits, for the sake of cutting a thread the full length of the lead screw.. But your leadscrew appears to be the same so I'm assuming that's how Mr Senior meant it to be. Odd or what!

Oh, and I tried your trick with lifting the left hand supporting bracket, it's already high enough it isn't the problem as it passes the first recess anyway.

Best rgds Simon

Miles Hellon03/01/2019 17:00:51
62 forum posts
26 photos

Hi Simon,

I just posted an extract from the table so:

1970 .................... 3033

1971 .................... 3131

1972 .................... 3240

1973 .................... 3363

1974 .................... 3492

So, your leadnut is in a different position than on Ian's and mine then? Perhaps, as you said, the table has been replaced?

Kind regards,

Miles

Simon Williams 303/01/2019 17:20:06
728 forum posts
90 photos

Hi again Miles, thanks for the additional info. My leadnut certainly looks like it belongs where it is! But there is certainly something odd going on here., and I'm starting to wonder if the thing to do is to remove the table and take a photo of the knee. I still think the basic problem is that the leadscrew should be threaded for its full length, which is where I started. and maybe that's something to do with fitting the long table on the original design of knee. With my knees (now there's another story) sorry knee the lead nut is inside the right hand side of the casting by 2-1/2 inches. I'm guessing that the knee for the longer table has the nut well to the left to give the extra travel and I'm beginning to see this as an easier mod' to do than making a complete new lead screw. I feel a project coming on.

If you do take yours off during the course of your refurb' please take a picture and maybe we can compare notes.

Best rgds and thanks again for your help.

Simon

Miles Hellon03/01/2019 18:15:13
62 forum posts
26 photos

Hi Simon,

Right, that explains it. On mine, the lead nut is almost 9 inches inside the righthand side.

It does seem like there's a mismatch somewhere......

Sure, I'll take lots of pics when I take things apart.

Regards

Miles

ian j03/01/2019 18:18:51
avatar
337 forum posts
371 photos

Yes Miles the limit at the RH end is when the leadscrew support casting hits the face of the lower section.

First photo shows this while the second photo shows the table approaching.

 

 

 

 

 

table rh max.jpgapprouching rh max.jpg

Simon. The feedscrew nut on mine is as you think, to the left,The photo below shows the feed screw casting coming into contact with it. I thought I had photo's of the table removed, but no!

 I can take a photo tomorrow if you like as it's only a matter of taking the feed screw support casting off and winding the feed screw out and pulling the table to the right far enough to show the feed nut.

table lh max.jpg

 

 

 

Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 18:21:23

Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 18:30:23

Miles Hellon03/01/2019 18:29:15
62 forum posts
26 photos

Thanks a lot Ian.

I can confirm that, after tweaking the LH support bracket position to clear the face of the lower section, I've now got 16-13/16 inches of travel. Close enough!

Miles

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