Miles Hellon | 31/12/2018 13:22:13 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Hi Nick, I remember seeing some photos showing the inside of Atlas Works but can't find them again... |
ANDY CAWLEY | 31/12/2018 16:57:20 |
190 forum posts 50 photos | Posted by Nick Thorpe on 31/12/2018 11:32:04:
Hi Miles. For alignment after moving the head out, I would wind the table up, put a large square on it and align the vertical part of the square with the machined slot on the left side of the head. For complete accuracy I would trammel the head with a dial indicator. Regards, Nick.
Edited By Nick Thorpe on 31/12/2018 11:45:51 Just had a thought whilst reading this post. Why not weld a suitable size disc to a shaft and true it off in the lathe. Transfer the assembly to the mill and put the shaft in the chuck. Raise the table to the disc and slacken the head arrangement and allow the table and the disc to align. Bingo one trammed in head. Its probably an old idea or there's something I haven't thought of, happy new year anyway |
Miles Hellon | 31/12/2018 18:03:58 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Thanks Andy, Yes, that's a good method. I realise this isn't a serious drawback of the machine. I'm just somewhat addicted to modifying things |
ANDY CAWLEY | 31/12/2018 18:39:05 |
190 forum posts 50 photos | Posted by Miles Hellon on 31/12/2018 18:03:58:
Thanks Andy, Yes, that's a good method. I realise this isn't a serious drawback of the machine. I'm just somewhat addicted to modifying things Aren't we all? |
Miles Hellon | 02/01/2019 13:27:10 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | I've just sketched out my initial thoughts: |
Miles Hellon | 02/01/2019 17:57:51 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | The idea is to keep everything within the original top cover, which will have a couple of slots added to access the new controls. |
Miles Hellon | 02/01/2019 19:20:55 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Maybe something like this? |
Simon Williams 3 | 03/01/2019 12:07:21 |
728 forum posts 90 photos |
Hello one and all, and best wishes for a Happy New Year. I've got one of these little beauties, and I have moved the ram probably twice in the last ten or fifteen years. But it all depends on the size of work you want to get at. A more significant restriction to me is that the X leadscrew isn't fully threaded. As a consequence there is an area about 12 inches wide at the right hand side of the table I can't traverse under the head. Is this the case with yours? I've been considering remaking the lead screw to improve this, but it's a lot of work and I haven't yet summoned up the courage to cut my first ever square thread. And it's metric, my lathe has got an imperial leadscrew. However I'm really curious to know how many speeds your mill has got. Tony Griffiths' archive says these had 5 later six speeds, I reckon mine is a fairly late model but it only has four speeds selectable by moving the drive belt within the head. The modification I did carry out after a lot of thought was to change the bearing supporting the driven pulley atop the quill to needle rollers. The original bronze bearing was pretty poorly so I needed to do something with it and decided to go for gold. There are pictures in my album of the results. All the best Simon |
Miles Hellon | 03/01/2019 13:39:09 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Hi Simon, Pic of the RH end of my leadscrew below. It's threaded up to 150mm from the collar. I get 15" of travel, which is the spec. given in the earliest catalogue for the 25" table.... The later machines, like ours, with the 28" table should have 17" of travel.... Hmmmm... Mine has four speeds. It's interesting that some of the catalogues give needle roller bearings for the tail end of the S head spindle and some give Bronze bearings, and not in the order you'd expect... What is the serial No. on yours? Mine is V3967 From the table posted on the Yahoo group: 1975 .................... 3627 1976 .................... 3727 1977 .................... 3806 1978 .................... 3896 1979 .................... 4008 1980 .................... 4113 1981 .................... 4165 1982 .................... 4238 1983 .................... 4290
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Simon Williams 3 | 03/01/2019 15:10:04 |
728 forum posts 90 photos | Hi Miles, well I can confirm that mine has the 28 inch table, and the view of the screw looks exactly the same. But where is the serial number? Best rgds Simon |
Miles Hellon | 03/01/2019 15:28:16 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Hi Simon, Serial number should be stamped into the front face of the slideway at the top right of the main column. So, you have 15" of travel? Limit of travel at the RH end is the leadscrew support casting hitting the face of the lower section of the slideway. The first rib of the casting is 2.5" from the face. Not sure what's limiting travel at the LH end yet.... Kind regards, Miles |
Miles Hellon | 03/01/2019 16:02:09 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Ha! Loosening the screws on the LH leadscrew support and lifting it as far as the screw hole allows gives just enough clearance for it to pass the face of the lower section. This gains the lost 2"! As far as gaining more movement at the RH end, the face of the leadscrew nut is 225mm in. So, lack of thread can't be the problem. The leadscrew collar would hit the rib at 30mm beyond the present limit.... Anyway, there is 30mm to be gained there with more radical action..... Kind regards, Miles Edited By Miles Hellon on 03/01/2019 16:02:25 Edited By Miles Hellon on 03/01/2019 16:04:23 |
ian j | 03/01/2019 16:08:28 |
![]() 337 forum posts 371 photos | Just measured the table travel, on my 1975 machine fitted with a 28" table, as 17.3" Limit of travel at the LH end is the leadscrew support casting hitting the feednut/housing Ian Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 16:09:16 |
Miles Hellon | 03/01/2019 16:15:10 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Thanks Ian. Is your limit at the RH end when the leadscrew support casting hits the face of the lower section? Kind regards, Miles |
Simon Williams 3 | 03/01/2019 16:36:16 |
728 forum posts 90 photos |
Hello Miles, thanks for that. I've completely changed my theory that mine is a late model, as the serial number is V3485, which puts it off the scale into prehistory. I'd assumed given the 28 inch table that it was later rather than earlier, but who knows, maybe that isn't the original table! The other revelation is that the table movement is 13 inches (12-7/8 actually) not 15, let alone any more. The stop going towards the right is the leadscrew tail bracket contacting the knee, the stop going left is the leadscrew running out of thread. Travel going right isn't the issue for me, the cutter is just about over the left end of the table by the time the movement stops anyway, but I don't understand why the right hand area of the table is out of limits, for the sake of cutting a thread the full length of the lead screw.. But your leadscrew appears to be the same so I'm assuming that's how Mr Senior meant it to be. Odd or what! Oh, and I tried your trick with lifting the left hand supporting bracket, it's already high enough it isn't the problem as it passes the first recess anyway. Best rgds Simon
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Miles Hellon | 03/01/2019 17:00:51 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Hi Simon, I just posted an extract from the table so: 1970 .................... 3033 1971 .................... 3131 1972 .................... 3240 1973 .................... 3363 1974 .................... 3492 So, your leadnut is in a different position than on Ian's and mine then? Perhaps, as you said, the table has been replaced? Kind regards, Miles
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Simon Williams 3 | 03/01/2019 17:20:06 |
728 forum posts 90 photos | Hi again Miles, thanks for the additional info. My leadnut certainly looks like it belongs where it is! But there is certainly something odd going on here., and I'm starting to wonder if the thing to do is to remove the table and take a photo of the knee. I still think the basic problem is that the leadscrew should be threaded for its full length, which is where I started. and maybe that's something to do with fitting the long table on the original design of knee. With my knees (now there's another story) sorry knee the lead nut is inside the right hand side of the casting by 2-1/2 inches. I'm guessing that the knee for the longer table has the nut well to the left to give the extra travel and I'm beginning to see this as an easier mod' to do than making a complete new lead screw. I feel a project coming on. If you do take yours off during the course of your refurb' please take a picture and maybe we can compare notes. Best rgds and thanks again for your help. Simon |
Miles Hellon | 03/01/2019 18:15:13 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Hi Simon, Right, that explains it. On mine, the lead nut is almost 9 inches inside the righthand side. It does seem like there's a mismatch somewhere...... Sure, I'll take lots of pics when I take things apart. Regards Miles |
ian j | 03/01/2019 18:18:51 |
![]() 337 forum posts 371 photos | Yes Miles the limit at the RH end is when the leadscrew support casting hits the face of the lower section. First photo shows this while the second photo shows the table approaching.
Simon. The feedscrew nut on mine is as you think, to the left,The photo below shows the feed screw casting coming into contact with it. I thought I had photo's of the table removed, but no! I can take a photo tomorrow if you like as it's only a matter of taking the feed screw support casting off and winding the feed screw out and pulling the table to the right far enough to show the feed nut.
Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 18:21:23 Edited By ian j on 03/01/2019 18:30:23 |
Miles Hellon | 03/01/2019 18:29:15 |
62 forum posts 26 photos | Thanks a lot Ian. I can confirm that, after tweaking the LH support bracket position to clear the face of the lower section, I've now got 16-13/16 inches of travel. Close enough! Miles |
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