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Unheated garage ok for a lathe?

Would an old english lathe survive in an unheated garage

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john fletcher 109/05/2017 19:57:02
893 forum posts

For the past 25 or more years I have had a wooden shed at the bottom of the garden for my work shop, no chance of anything better. I have minimal rust problems as I run an dehumidifier 24/7, it cycles on and off. The water collected is OK for cleaning windows and use in the domestic iron. Window cleaner now use de ionised water when using those long hose pipes, no need for wash leathers. I have a Wattmeter and use to monitor the power used, and its about a light bulb on for 12 hours over 24, 50%. I think its value for money and gives me peace of mind. De humidifiers are frequently for sale at our local sale room and they give a 24 hour warranty for such things. Oh, and I live about 100 metre from the sea as the seagull fly so we don't look upwards when they are about. John

mechman4810/05/2017 09:56:14
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2947 forum posts
468 photos

+1 for OuBallie & Andrew comments; I have a very similar set up, If I need to boost up the temp' in 'cold winters' I have a couple of small oil thermostatically controlled rad's which I switch on for about an hour which brings the temp' up to a reasonable 15/16*, also ... snap ...

'The temp inside never drops below 5/6° no matter that outside'.

George.

Howard Lewis13/05/2017 18:44:56
7227 forum posts
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I am right behind Andrew and Geoff on this, mounting one of my hobbyhorses.

Rust comes from the combination of water and oxygen being present in the atmosphere. Condensation increases the quantity of water present.. Since oxgen is necessary for a mammal (and that includes us) to survive in the place, the water content has to be minimised.

Ideally a dehumidifier, (bet that that increases fluid intake when you return indoors) or insulation to reduce fluctuations in temperature, and keeping the temperature above the dew point.

Burning hydrocarbon fuels in a shop is BAD news, producing the water vapour that  should be avoided. So no gas heaters, woodburners (even with good ventilation) or any form of combustion heater.

Am envious of one shop that is connected to the house small bore hot water central heating system!

My shop is wood. 19mm cladding on 50mm frames with glass fibre between, and 12mm internal ply walls. Roof is now EPDM rubber on 12mm ply, on 50mm frames, with glass fibre between the 12mm ply lining.
Floor is 19mm ply on 8" x 2" bearers. Fixed vent near the floor, to allow damp air to exit, with high level, weatherproof intake, with fan assistance if needed. If the temperature is likely to fall to near freezing, a 60 watt tubular heater is switched on. After a couple of days, the steel benches feel just warm to the touch. This is adequate for a small shop (10'9" x 6'9" external). When occupied, a thermostatically controlled 2Kw fan heater runs for about 10% of the time in the depths of a UK winter. Over nearly 14 years no rust problems. In the previous uninsulated shop the oil on the bed of the Myford used to turn milky, despite being covered! Location is UK, East Anglia.

Being well insulated will keep the shop warmer for longer without heat. With heat, it will reach temperature sooner, and cost less to run. The savings can go towards tools and materials!

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 13/05/2017 18:50:06

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