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Help wanted solving groove for O ring cutting on lathe

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Christine Walker18/11/2016 09:58:54
37 forum posts

Ok, thank you Hopper, I am on it.

Hopper18/11/2016 10:01:33
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7881 forum posts
397 photos

You're welcome. Good luck with the project.

Neil Lickfold18/11/2016 10:20:30
1025 forum posts
204 photos

I'am not sure of your experience in cutting plastics. But if you go too fast you will melt the material to the tool. Sometimes it is best to use a narrower tool that is sharp and with the final corner radius detail. For a 5mm section O ring the groove will be about 5.5 mm wide and about 9.3 mm deep on diameter. A tool made that is about 2mm wide and about 5 mm out at that width will work well. When the tool gets too wide, it creates a lot of chatter on the work piece etc.

Neil

Brian Oldford18/11/2016 10:44:44
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686 forum posts
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Please keep us informed on the progress of your project. Good luck.

Christine Walker18/11/2016 11:34:13
37 forum posts

Hi Neil, yes I have some experience using Engineering PVC which is a lovely material to work with. You are right, things need to be kept quite slow and small cuts at a time. Sharp tools are a must.

Thanks all, will keep you posted with progress.

Les Jones 118/11/2016 11:38:41
2292 forum posts
159 photos

This is a picture of the method I suggested. You may gain just enough on the diameter.

img_1371 (large).jpg

Les.

JasonB18/11/2016 12:24:50
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You can easily make a holder like the boring bars that have been shown, bit of round bar drilled through say 1/8" and cross drilled for a M3 grub screw. Then just grind down an old centre drill to make the cutting tool.

imag1520.jpg

Or if you already have something that will cut internal grooves then just mount it upside down and run the lathe backwards

Christine Walker21/11/2016 18:41:33
37 forum posts

Hi gents

So I have bought the exact same boring bar as shown in Mr Hopper's post... but for the life of me, I can't fathom out how the centre rod stays in position within the square outer jacket.

It has grub screws to keep the tool tight within the rod holes, but how does it stay in position within the outer jacket, anyone?

Sorry to be such a dumbo.

mick7021/11/2016 18:44:27
524 forum posts
38 photos

when you clamp it in toolholder it will hold it tight.

JasonB21/11/2016 18:45:32
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25215 forum posts
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The presure from the toolpost screws will close up the square holder, that is why it has a slot in it and that should be positioned to one side.

Christine Walker21/11/2016 18:52:05
37 forum posts

I thought that, but it still moved?

Are you saying that the square holder has to be slightly off centre, so the tool post screws push down on the grooved part?

Christine Walker21/11/2016 18:53:23
37 forum posts

That's a cool piece of home made kit JasonB. When I am a little more experienced, I may give that a go. Thanks for the suggestion.

Christine Walker21/11/2016 18:56:04
37 forum posts

Thanks Les... I see what you mean. I may try that if I the boring bar idea doesn't work.

Why do they place the compound rest so far to the left of the cross slide? What's the rationale?

Les Jones 121/11/2016 20:19:35
2292 forum posts
159 photos

Hi Christine,
Looking end on to the boring tool the slot in the square part should be a either the 3 oclock or 9 oclock position so that the pressure of the screws can compress the square part. It could be that the opposite side to the slot is too strong for the tool post screws on your lathe to compress the square part enough to grip the bar. If this is the case you could try grindind a groove in the square part on the opposite side to the slot to make it easier to compress.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 21/11/2016 20:19:53

Christine Walker21/11/2016 22:53:22
37 forum posts

Thanks Les. I'll look at it tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

Hopper21/11/2016 23:58:35
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7881 forum posts
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Like this

Christine Walker22/11/2016 12:58:01
37 forum posts

Ok, got you. Thanks Mr Hopper.

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