CovMac Lathes

Phil,

I understand everything you say, and will act upon it on my next visit. I am unsure the carriage has come far enough left to have actually tipped - I do not think it has, but I will ensure that all of your concerns are addressed. I agree about protecting a lead-screw.

I will be making one visit prior to the day of the big move.

Chris.

Hi Chris, an example of the hole and bar lifting system used on a very heavy bit of kit!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idBWmmPEQ2g

Phil.

Many thanks Phil - it is a very good, stable system. Certainly worked for me.

Partly due your cautions on carriage possibly impinging lead-screw, I am considering taking lead-screw, power bar and screw-cutting gearbox off before the main lift, in Southampton.

That way I can bring gearbox back to London for a winter project. (I will not be going to Yeovil much before the spring). This machine once suffered a major league crash which tore away 25% of an eight inch chuckface, and I fear there may be damage in the box - the seized A - B lever might not be unconnected. Although, I know the gearbox rotates okay, I have seen that moving.

We are reasonably sure lead-screw disconnects via a tapered pin on external attachment to the screw gearbox, and that the power bar is a grub screw or two onto a collar.

The tailstock end attachments are free, and with half nuts disengaged, and power bar in neutral there should be nothing in the apron holding them. I should then be able to with draw both out backwards off the tailstock end?

Only caveat I can see on removing the screw gearbox is that access to the two lower bolts (the ones you cannot see) is limited - I think I have to remove the bottom sump plate, and access those from beneath. My reach there is pretty limited. I only have a couple of inches beneath the box to play with spanners.

If you are anywhere near your own Covmac this weekend, I would very much appreciate any heads up on these aspects. If I do this, I am aiming to shoot for the coming Tuesday. Thanks.

Chris.

Hi Chris, I will be there Monday, and will have a look.

Phil

Hello Chris and Phil,

We are clearly all now on the same wavelength having corresponded separately by email, gentle steps all the way.

You are right I think Chris, the lower bolts in the screw cutting box are hidden inside, Tony's website picture suggests that..

Brian.

PM sent

Martin

Hi Martin,

Sorry, but I do not understand your post.

Thanks.

Chris.

Hi Chris

I have sent you a Private Message which you should receive on your usual email account, offering help if you need it while moving your machine (I live close to Southampton).

Martin

Dear Martin,

I do not know how to access your message, as it does not yet appear in my box, in this site, or in my gmail account, but I do very, very much appreciate your offer of help in Southampton.

An engineer in attendance, next time I visit, would be like pennies from heaven.

My lathe is in Totton.

Best wishes, and many thanks for contacting me. I look forward to hearing from you further.

Chris.

PMs don't go via email, there should be a flashing envelope in your 'my friends' box at top right (where your profile pic would be, if you had one).

You can also click 'messages' on the top bar.

Neil

Mystery solved, Martin PM'ed me instead!

I've copied it and sent it on to Chris by email, and thanked Martin on his behalf

Brian

Martin,

Tried you on your home phone, but got an unobtainable tone. WiIl try later on your mobile.

I will be in Totton on Tuesday, from about 9 am, and I would be greatly appreciative of any help on the day.

I want to try and remove the screw-cutting box, and take away, if I can, all but the headstock and main bed.

Many thanks. Speak later.

Chris.

Hi Chris, Brian and Martin,

Hope these pics will help,

Phil

Half nuts disengaged.

Half nut engaged, but I note that your lever is in a different position to mine on the shaft, so I will add "move clockwise to engage the half nuts with the lead screw, anticlockwise to disengage"!

Lower fixing bolt, you can see half of it peeking out from behind the selector lever/spindle

You can see all of the bolt head here( rusty blurry as it is!), with the selector moved to the other end, you may be able to get a socket onto it with a ratchet and a universal joint, but you cant get to the right hand one anyway so it will be best to remove the bottom plate.

Hope this helps guys! I had to go for some firewood then I forgot which way round the lever worked, so I had to go back again, but I have had a message to say that Richard the joiner is coming in the morning (Sunday!) to fit the new front door and frame, which is excellent, so I needed to check if I had enough cement, know what I mean!

Phil

Hello Phil,

What useful information, it knocks my theory on the head regarding a bolted on 1/2 nut engagement lever being bolted too tight. There must be some other reason for that lever being locked as it is.

Chris confirms the 1/2 nuts are open.

Best wishes

Woody sorry, Brian here!

Phil,

Many thanks for this: I am so very sorry that you become dogsbody/gofer in this business so often, because you have one of these machines, and I make you run around, but your information is always absolutely worth its weight in gold.

Your combination of words and pictures is film industry standard!

You will get your rewards before you reach heaven!!

I cannot believe a camera can see right to the lower bolts, but there they are!

Interesting to see red oxide paint in the screw gearbox interior.

Good one Phil. Have a great weekend.

Best regards.

Chris.

No problem Chris, any excuse to play with "toys" and I'm there! The camera is really nothing special, it is an Acer solid fun CL6330, but I do use the macro setting for close shots. The problem with the fixing bolt shots is that it is dark inside the gearbox, so the camera cannot "see" enough to focus properly. Also checked my new outside auto lights while I was there the second time, first one comes on as I park the car, second one as I arrive at the door.................Perfic!

Phil.

Thanks Phil.

Much appreciated.

Electrically, what might I have to do to my CovMac's motor?

Best.

Chris.

If you send me a pic of the motor, or post one up, I will be better able to tell you.. Basic stuff, as it has been unused for some time, put it somwhere dry and warm if possible, to thoroughly dry it out. Spin the shaft whilst listening to the bearings with a long screwdriver, metal end on the bearing, handle placed onto your ear (not a joke, you will be amazed what you can hear). If the motor is totally enclosed, give the bearings a couple of shots with a grease gun. and then get it "megger" tested to check the integrity of the insulation. If the motor is a vented frame, have a look through the vents for dust, dead mice etc, and blow through the vents with compressed air to clean it out.

Phil.

Phil,

Thanks.

There is a clear picture of my CovMac's motor on page four of this forum thread. It does have a ventilation grill, and I hope there are no dead mice in it. There will be spiders.

I do not much fancy electrocution, so the motor's integrity is of interest to me.

In terms of bringing it up to modern safety standards, I do not want to have to bolt anything obviously 21st Century to the lathe, to spoil its antique looks, but I will want it 100% + guaranteed safe to use.

I shall save the Startrite box on the wall, but that will just be as a souvenir?

Chris.

The dust and muck needs to be sucked out not blown in and compressed air often contains a lot of water. As Phil says put the motor in a warm place to dry out /remove any dampness. If you know an electrician get him to carry out an insulation test on the windings. I'm assuming its a three phase motor, have a three phase supply or are you going to invest in an inverter ? Motors that age often had their windings insulated with natural resins so if the insulation resistance is low don't despair, your local rewind shop can dismantle the motor and re dip the stator for you. Hopefully not necessary. Tell us more about the Startrite box on the wall, certainly take it home. I'm following your task with interest.Ted