Member postings for David Jupp

They do exist without speed control, but may be difficult to find. As previously mentioned, you are not forced to use the speed control - I run my drill via an inverter, frequency is set at 50Hz and the options for frequency control are not connected or configured. Speed ramps are set for start up, to limit start up current.

Austenitic Stainless is softened by heat and water quench.

Martensitic Stainless is hardened by heat and quench.

300 series stainless (austenitic) work hardens like crazy. Tends to gall easily so maybe not great for calipers.

400 series stainless (martensitic) may well be deliberately hardened from factory - I would guess this is more likely for calipers. Might drill, or grinding with a small point might work better.

As well as saving the paint, insulation may reduce the severity of any burns resulting from touching the boiler exterior.

Thanks - I visit Stalybridge regularly on business, will drop in and take a look.

I've had centres not want to eject - I've removed them by placing open ended spanner jaws (slightly smaller than max diameter of centre) around the centre, wind back using the handwheel, jacks out the centre when spanner jaws push against tailstock casting.

Closed valve, or some other blockage? - hydraulic pumps typically self adjust their capacity to maintain relatively constant delivery pressure, will back right off if nowhere for the oil to go.

You might well think that (I'd probably agree). However, other options being promoted by some 3D printer companies include

1. 3D Scan - then print from scan.

2. Download 3D files from internet, then print. Files from web are either purchased or shared freely.

Also worth noting that 3D Printer companies are at the forefront of providing low cost 3D CAD tools of various types. Some of these are not 'CAD' as we might think of it (e.g. Cubify Sculpt)

You can make initial hole using standard masonry bit (preferably fairly new). Put a bit of masking tape on the tile face to stop the drill slipping when starting. Don't use hammer action with the drill.

You can cheap what looks like a fret saw with abrasive blade quite cheaply from DIY stores. They work but are slow.

Springs often fail at the anchorage (at one end or the other). A temporary (?) repair can sometimes be made by heating just the damaged end enough to soften it and allow forming of a new hook or loop.

Stop heat from spreading along the spring by gripping with a large clamp or similar.

Not just for 3D either - Traceparts offers a variety of 2D symbols, and lots of the items for which 3D CAD models are available also have 2D CAD files available.

**LINK**

If you are sure wiring is OK, the RCD trip could be moisture in the motor windings rather than a major problem. A spell in the airing cupboard may sort the motor out.

3D Systems launched the 'Cerajet' printer for ceramics at the CES last week - it's covered in the same publicity video as the food printers and a host of other stuff...

This one is actually direct 3D printing of the clay, not the moulds - certainly suggests your idea is perfectly feasible.

No intention to get rid of the Design Tree in Alibre/Geomagic as far as I'm aware.

There is a wider 'war' (or should that be debate) in the CAD industry between 'history based' and 'direct modelling' approaches.

Both approaches have their strengths.

I used to work in the Polymers side of BP (before it was divested) - most polymer manufacturers have at least one 'small order' distributor for dealing with orders of less than a full truck load. The main sales office of the manufacturer should be able to advise who they use in the UK. - and as stated above you might even get a free sample.

Make sure you ask for an injection moulding grade, even then there may be several to choose from from a particular manufacturer. If you can get to speak to the Technical Support team, they can help with grade choice, and may even be authorised to arrange for samples.

Glass filled grades can be very hard on the processing equipment (rapid wear) - but in a hobby situation that may not be so important.

Having submitted a potential article (not used) on 3D CAD, I'd offer a few comments.

Detailed articles on 'how to use' this or that piece of software tend to by their nature need a lot of space to be useful and will be of little interest to those who don't have (or intend to have) the software in question. I can see that such articles might not be justified very often, or would be better placed in a 'special'.

Articles tackling the benefits and/or problems of a broad type of software might be of wider interest.

Short articles reviewing relevant software could be very helpful (though subjective). Articles describing how software has been used to tackle an engineering task otherwise outside the capabilities of the author, or to give a better or faster outcome could potentially be interesting even to those with no intention of ever using such software.

Bob Warfield over at CNC Cookbook argues that 'Digital Tooling' is every bit as important as physical tooling in the workshop.

It is important to remember that software is relevant to much more than CNC machines or 3D printing. Small, well produced programs or apps for specific workshop or design tasks are just as relevant as complex, expensive software suites.

Since your life, and perhaps the lives of others could depend on the brakes, it might be better to make sure your new pistons are within the original dimensional specifications just to be sure (if you can find out what the spec was).

I'd be surprised if anyone here will tell you it's OK - especially with no detail of the seal arrangement, fluid pressures etc.

Not really. Stiffness is determined by the shape of the part and the Modulus of the material. To a first approximation the Modulus of all steels is the same regardless of what Yield or Ultimate strength the steel has.