Member postings for terry callaghan

Hi jordi. Sorry but round and square column are totally different and nothing is interchangeable.

Hi chaps, thanks for replying. It must be more then just the motor not getting power as that would not course the shorting out. There is no Chuck guard on this machine. As I said I am not electrical minded at all, unless there are great big burn marks I would never find a fault. But my bet is it’s one of the blue/black things on the motor. I think if I can get the motor off I will replace it with a better quality motor a bit more Up to date. Michael

After a bit of playing around. The z and x axis motors work ok. So the fault lays in the main head motor. Which I can’t get off for some reason. Does anyone know if these just pull out from the top, or do I need to remove the top of the head which I don’t truly wish to do as it holds a bearing. This is a picture of the machine, I have know idea what the black and blue units are.

Hi chaps, so today my warco stopped working when I switched the milling head on. I have contacted warco with know reply as yet to ask them what I need to look for to find the fault. Now this is an older mill around 1985, and as given good service. So does anyone out there know if it’s possible to replace the motor with something a bit better which will do away with the Chinese electrical system. I was also thinking of making the mill able to run cnc so any help in both areas would be great. Thanks Michael

Hi, the hand wheel moves in both directions, but the cross slide just moves in one. I can move it towards the centre of the bed, but not back again, I need to push it back.

Hi chaps, today I tried to take out a bit of play in my lathes cross slide. However it turned out to be one of those jobs you wish you had not started. One thing lead to another and I ended up removing the cross slide due to the build up of metal cuttings in the slides. So I looked at the screw nut for play, and could not find anything to talk about. So I cleaned it all up, coated with light gun oil and refitted. And now to the problem. The cross slide moves in one direction, but will not return towards the turn wheel. Looking at the parts manual, nothing looks as it’s missing, so what have I done wrong, or overlooked, is there a method you must follow to set the cross slide up. Thanks, Michael

Hi, having sold my Tom senior s type a few years back, I remember that moving the knee up and down was a bit of hard work at times. I needed a milling machine again earlier this year. Space is limited, I found that old British mills mainly sole by dealers had a fair bit of play in them. I looked at mini mills, but the bed size allowing for clamping was too small. In the end a warco super major turned up for sale. Locally. I did not wish to go Chinese, but took a look. Powered z axis and bed was nice. For the money £700 I thing it was a good buy. From what I have found out older warco machines are better then the newer ones.

Hi chaps. I am a bit worried about the regulator control connections on a Martin Evans Columbia locomotive I am working on. The regulator is the twin popper type that is mounted on the front of the boiler within the smoke box. A control arm 56mm long complete with a 4mm face square formed end, extends to just outside the smoke box. The control arm needs a clockwise turn of 45* to fully open the regulator. Onto this square is fitted a connector as per the picture. My worry is that the connecting area is very small with only a very small locking pin to hold both together.
my question to you all out there, is three fold. Is this connection up to the job and safe. Is there a better way of making this connection. Would making a larger connection surface be better. Thanks, Michael

Thanks chaps, here is a picture of the centre linkage. I think that using bolts is a bad idea as there is far to much play if you add up all the kinks. The movement of the regulator main body is less then a 1/4 turn at best. I think nick your case hardened fork with close fitting pins maybe the answer. Do you think using silver steel for the pins would be ok.

Hi chaps.i am trying to sort out a Martin Evans design Columbia. The regulator control runs along the outside of the wrapping and is made up of two rods and three fork connectors. My problem is with having too much slopp in the movement. The rods are on two levels and as a link arm in the middle. Due to lack of space in the position the rods are in the fork connectors are quite small, with only a 2mm hole for a fixing pin. I have tried just fitting a nut and bolt, but the play is too much. What would be a better way to lock the fork connectors, . Thanks.

Hi, looking into the past posts, there are two links to build logs from people who have converted a super major mill to cnc. But both links are dead, and I can’t open them. Can someone please contact me if they have converted a super major. Thanks. Michael

This auction house is Japanese owned. The fees have been going up to mad levels. But 30% on top the hammer price and taking 15% from the buyer plus 1.5% insurance, then cost per picture. They are on a real winner. The only losers are the sellers. But what I find odd is that buyers are happy to buy from auctions, yet moan at the prices asked by sellers, selling their own items. I know a fellow club member who tried to sell is locomotive on a number of sites, with little interest bar from dealers trying to beg it. He placed it in auction, it sold for a much higher price then he was asking. The buyer had to pay a lot more, and the seller got less after all the fees. All very odd really.

I will look into making a few bed locks, thanks lee

Hi, I find my myford super 7 a bit small so went on the hunt for a larger machine. Looked at a few warco types, they are eye candy for sure, but for the money they ask, I would want a lot more then Chinese manufacturing. In the end I went for a Colchester bantam lathe. Best Buy I have ever made in model engineering. A 1/4 of the price of a warco lathe, and ten times better.

Thanks chaps, I did find the drawbar, and ordered a new mt2 collect chuck with collets. I only need to do a small bit of one off milling. The rest I do on a cnc mill. Thanks for your help.

Hi chaps, I purchased a little Amolco bench top milling machine as a stand in for a time. I know that the taper is mt2. But before I start hitting things with hammers to get the chuck out, is there a drewbar. I have taken the top of the mill off, but all I can see is a rod and nut which looks like it’s holding the pulleys in place. I don’t want to start taking things apart if I don’t need to, so I am asking here. Thanks

Thanks Geoff.

Hi is the Bournemouth club still going, their web site is closed. Anyone know. Thanks

Hi Duncan, interesting idea, but it’s becoming more complicated. I like to keep things simple, like me.

I like that idea. Will have a think on that. Thanks