Member postings for GaryM

Needed to punch holes in some shim stock so I thought I'd have a go at making a punch. I based it loosely on commercial designs and used a piece of semi-circular acrylic I had lying around (which accounts for the odd shape). First time I've machined acrylic so it could probably be better. It was already flat and parallel so I only cut it in half and cut the holes. Only made one of the punches so far but it seemed to work. The holes are 7BA to 1 BA clearance.

Gary

Had my first attempt at screw-cutting on the lathe and made the first part of Harold Hall's Simple Grinding Rest - the infeed screw.

Gary

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I'll take them on board, but what is so bad about red oxide primer? I try to find as much info as I can before asking questions. I have Chris Vine's excellent book "How (not) to paint a locomotive" and realise that acid etch primer is very useful, but due to it being a small casting and brush applied I thought red oxide would be OK in this instance. Top coat will be Humbrol enamel.

Gary

Thanks for the replies guys.

Looks like you are both suggesting getting the primer off. I think I knew that was probably the correct course of action. So I'll have a go at that with cellulose thinners and/or abrasives. I didn't want to spray it because I've zero experience of spray painting and masking the flywheel would have taken a while and probably not been that successful. Also, just to clarify, the castings have been machined, the engine tried on air and this is the final stage before final assembly.

Gary

I'm usually too cautious. "Measure three times and cut the following week" could be my motto. However, the other day after doing some final fettling of the S50 base casting that I'm building, I degreased it and gave it a coat of red oxide primer. That bit was OK, the mistake came when I got the flywheel I'd prepared the previous week and painted that, forgetting I hadn't degreased it. Therefore the finish is glossy and very slightly soft compared to the matt and sound finish on the base.

Should I give it another coat of primer or try and remove it with paint stripper or rub it back to metal?

Thanks

Gary

Nick,

Definitely more suitable for your needs than that lovely Boxford, which you could donate to me.

Gary

That one unusual house you live in Bob.

Gary

Day off work today.

I hardened and tempered the spot facing tool I started yesterday. Honed the cutting edge and then tried it on the S50 casting. I'm reasonably happy with the results considering it was a first attempt and I didn't really know what I was doing. Slippery slope this making tools - that way madness lies.

Gary

Well, after physio for the recovering ankle and then driving round several garden centres looking for a plant for someone else I finally managed to get in the workshop at about 4pm. Decided to have a go at making a 5BA spot facing tool for the mounting holes on the S50. Didn't really know what I was doing as I hadn't been able to find any suggested designs but so far I have this below. Might be completely wrong. Finish is a bit rough but for some reason I decided to use an inserted tip tool instead of HSS. Tomorrow, hopefully harden and temper and finish the cutting edge then have a try with it. Comments welcome

Gary

I was already considering buying the Warco 250 VF later this year when I found out at Harrogate that they were now fitted with an AC motor and VFD. Makes it an even better purchase I think.

Gary

It might have been on its way to RAF Cosford where one displayed yesterday and today.

**LINK**

They had a live video feed during the show but it seems to have gone now.

I mainly wanted to see the Vulcan.

Gary

Wallace,

If you've composed that in the four hours since this thread was started you should be a songwriter. Superb.

Gary

I used mine for the first time last week to clean up the S50 flywheel before painting. They worked a treat and were much more controllable than the Dremel would probably have been.

Gary

Today's unplanned activity was to fit some hinge bolts and an extra padlock to the workshop door after hearing my neighbour's shed had been broken into last night. Razor wire, lookout tower and searchlights will come later

Gary

Hi Geoff,

As a beginner I was curious how accurate the speed dial was on my mini-lathe so I used the simple tachometer described on Tony Jeffree's web site here **LINK** to check it.

Cost virtually nothing and dial was reasonably accurate. As Neil said, now I've used it a bit I've got more of a feel for the correct speed without worrying too much about the actual speed.

Gary

Hi Nick,

I don't know the answer to your question but there are some useful installation videos on this site which might give you some ideas.

**LINK**

HTH

Gary

Thanks Jason.

Those are the articles I've been using, obviously it wasn't clear enough for me . I had assembled it as in first pic and it ran and then I had doubts that it might be the wrong way round.

Gary

Edited By GaryM on 24/05/2014 21:09:49

Hi Thomas,

Thanks for the reply. There is even more detail in the article from ME that I've been following, but you can follow those instructions with both orientations and still not know which is correct.

I think Lofty and Neil have answered the question. For the sake of completeness for others who may read later here are the drawings.

Gary

Yes Neil, they were both open with second option. Unfortunately this wasn't enough of a clue to a newbie.

Gary

Hi Neil,

You posted while I was replying to Lofty. Valve cavity is 9/32" x 9/32". Valve is 13/32" in one direction, 1/2" in other. Inlet ports are 7/16" to outer edges, 9/32" to inner edges. I would have posted a pic of the plans but camera battery has just died. I'll post one later for info. It might help other beginners to visualise it.

Gary