Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Sphincter surfacing tool 😀

I once machined down the diameter of the cutter to use as a spot face cutter for spot facing the opposite side of a base mounting hole on one of my model engines , a bit fiddly but it worked !

Here is a home made unit for small tools that doesn’t use any power .

**LINK**

i use a degaussing wand that is designed for degaussing tv screens , bought it of ebay and is ok foe small tools like digital callipers.

Plenty of wiring diagrams out there to fix that .

**LINK**

If you don’t want a certain voltage rail like 3.3v or 5 v or a negative rail just leave it disconnected .

When you open up a supply just identify the voltage you want by either wire colour code or looking at the board as it is sometimes written on it and unsolder the wires from the other pads then trim off the wires you won’t need from the supply rail you won’t use or as i did remove all the wires and solder on some heavy duty cable to the solder pad for the voltage i wanted to use .

Seriously these power supplies are something that many model engineers overlook because we don’t understand how they work or don’t know how to utilise their ability, you can get a 20amp , 12 volt pc power supply for under $50au here in OZ from just about any computer shop and even more power is not that much more expensive considering my local electronics shop would ask well over $100 au for something similar in their power supply units .

P.s , Dave slotted in a reply while i was typing this and as he says - the OP is not electrically minded so the power supply that Dave shows is the  simplest approach - i have never had a problem running motors off them and my cnc engraver uses the exact same type for its spindle motor but utilised the voltage control potentiometer  as an RPM control via a remote potentiometer instead of the trimpot on the circuit board .

Edited By XD 351 on 31/08/2019 10:44:37

Edited By XD 351 on 31/08/2019 10:54:39

+1 for the ATX - pc power supply and there are plenty of videos on youtube or infoon the internet showing how to set them up.

I used one for my dehumidifier project (photos in my library ) but found when testing this unit using 3 halogen headlight globes in parallel the unit wouldn’t fire up as it was detecting a heavy current flow so it shut down suspecting a dead short . I would use a cheap PWM controller between the power supply and motor as this will allow the power supply to fire up without any current flow and you get the added bonus of speed control on your spindle . Even the old 550w unit i used was rated at 20 A @ 12 volts and they are dirt cheap to buy new if you don’t fancy using a second hand unit which can usually be scavenged for free from an old pc .

Cap screw or torx screw .

I once had a 6mm hex driver punch a hole a tyre - it was the long type you use in a drill/driver , the front tyre must have flicked it up when it ran over it and it landed at just tue right angle for it to puncture the back tyre . The other one was when i got a new car i took the entry to my drive a fraction wider than usual and as my water meter is buried in a cut out in the concrete driveway i ran over it and the shaft for the shut off valve went straight through a brand new tyre - i have now fabricated a cover for the meter !

A question i would like to ask is what voltage do the steppers operate at ? If it is around 40v then you have a serious power supply problem , i would try isolating the power supply from the machine and see if the problem disappears.

So now that you have it fixed will Stub be playing a few licks on YouTube?

Who brushes their dogs teeth???? Next thing you will be telling me you wipe it’s bum !

I would take the belts off the motor and see if it runs cooler , 100c seems too hot for my liking - somewhere between 30- 60 deg would seem more normal to me . Cold = happy for induction motors .

Nup went through the whole lot step by step each time and the only thing that changed was the amount of subscriptions i wanted to buy which i had to edit so it didn’t try to charge me twice for one subscription.

This is the biggest PIA of a subscription to renew that i have ever encountered !

Whats the bet on clicking the auto renewal icon going through faultlessly ? I reckon they would have that set up so it works properly and once they have your CC details stopping your subs would be an ordeal !

Edited By XD 351 on 25/08/2019 08:24:41

I just renewed my subs and as usual it let me get to the final part where i click the renew icon and it shoots back a message the we don’t deliver to that part of the world which is strange considering my subs are digital only ! I tried the rest of the world setting , i tried setting it for the U.K but to no avail it just wouldn’t let me pay for my subs . In the end i filled out the delivery address with a lot of the letter X and it accepted it ! Seriously it needs to be fixed as i get this every time i renew my subs and surely they can sort out the section for delivery with the digital only subs as there is no delivery . In the end i got a good laugh out of it as this is the only magazine that i know of that tells you when your subscription is due but won’t take your money ! 😁

One trend i noticed recently especially when buying things for Arduino is certain sellers will advertise an item usually with multiple quantities available and a price range from a few dollar to $30 or $40 which one would usually expect the low end to be for one unit and the other end for multiple units , if you look carefully at the pictures there will also be another item in there like a cable or something cheap and useless. So you think this is a good deal and click the drop down menu to grab 10 units and it will be listed as out of stock and the only thing you can buy is the useless part ! They also tend to have multiple listings for the same thing with slightly different prices just to fool you into buying something from them , Another really irritating thing is when a seller lists their entire range of brand X products ( drill bits for example ) and list them in 0.1 mm increments so to get past their advert you nearly wear out your scroll wheel on your mouse getting past them !

Looks like a Wylex plug which it clearly says on the front of the socket at the bottom .

**LINK**

Edited By XD 351 on 15/08/2019 06:25:20

The consensus from my clock experts and many here is that the way to go for precise work is the micrometer and this probably means a good brand

True but even a cheap set of digital callipers have many uses in the workshop , You can speed up your job by using the callipers to check your work until you get close to the finished dimension then switch over to a micrometer for final sizing -don’t forget to let the part cool down if the dimension is really critical ! This also means your good tools stay safely tucked away from harm until you really need them which will increase their longevity .

If you are going to buy precision measuring tools then buy known brands and i would recommend you buy from a certified retailer as Chinese knock offs are prolific on places like Ebay and are usually marketed as new old stock , you also need to be careful buying used items off those sites as well .

I don’t know about the rest of the world but here in Australia you can (or could last time i checked ) go on to the website for the RMS ( Australian version of DMV or motoring regulatory authority) and download the Australian design regulations for the construction of trailers which sets out all the design rules right down to the placement of the required reflectors and lights etc. It might be worth checking with your local Authorities to see if they do a similar thing as it makes designing and building a trailer so much simpler !

We call them cup oilers but I’m sure there are other names for them , i shipped some from ARC to here in Australia a few years back as it was cheaper than buying them here !

The inaccuracy of the callipers may just be an adjustment issue , on the side next to the little locking knob there are two tiny screws that adjust the jaw tension so maybe giving these a tweak will sort the problem out . I adjusted mine so they just start to cause some drag but still operate smoothly . After that clean the inside surfaces of the jaws by lightly clamping some clean paper ( i use printer paper) between the jaws and pull it through then close the jaws and hold it up to a light source and look at where the jaws meet there should be no light shining through - if there is repeat the cleaning process and if it doesn’t improve they are stuffed so only good as a scriber or checking approximate sizes only .

A picture of the board would help!

From what i can gather from the OP it is the tracks from some sort of rotary switch that are damaged so a conductive pen won’t fix it .

If the board is fairly simple in layout the press and peel / etch system will be ok but if it is very complex, double sided or multi layer forget about it . If it is a fairly simple board you could re draw it using one of the free pcb design programmes like easy eda and send it as a file to jlcpcb in china as they can make it for you ( there are others also ) , you could also try contacting them via email and see what they say .

I’m not sure if you can import a scanned image into easy eda and convert it to the required file that a pcb manufacturer needs, there is also i believe some sort of pcb function in fusion 360 but i have never opened it to see what it is or does so maybe having a look around on some different forums for fusion and easy eda( if there is one ?) may help .

Have a look at the Clickspring channel on youtube, Chris shows in one of his videos how to make a square broach .

The real problem is getting the taper exactly the same on all four facets and the hardening/ tempering process on such a small broach will need some consideration as well .

If they don’t fit any of the machines your Dad had is it possible he may have been using them for indexing purposes ?