Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

My first port of call would be the two relays on the right hand board , it is possible that these control the power to the heater and circuit for the transducers and would be switched via the timer and start switch on the front panel .

Please don’t go poking around in there with the power connected - ☠️

ISO 68 is just viscosity , proper way oil has additives to stop something called stick slip and is specifically designed for machine slide ways .

Nice looking ring !

So how did you do it ?

Bump.

I have mixed chain bar oil with that lucas oil treatment /conditioner stuff but it didn't help with the stick slip problem but as that Lucas oil stuff is super tacky it did make the oil hang around and is magic on back gears . I intend to continue using bar oil on everything except the ways as it is cheap , it works and is readily available.

Right you are Joe !

This time i watched with me glasses on

I also noticed what could be some smoke coming off the lathe tool in the machining operations that were shown speeded up so he may have had some fluid on in those operations as well.

Looks like he has a cnc Sherline lathe and possibly a cnc mill also.

For many years i have used either motor oil or more recently chain bar oil for a chainsaw on my machines but a comment on a forum (can't remember which one ) that explained that way oil has certain additives to stop something called stick slip started me thinking that i may be missing out on something so i decided to investigate .

I have had a few issues with my mill sort of jumping as i move the Y axis using bar oil , the X axis is less a problem and i would guess it has to do with surface area as the y axis has less surface area than the x axis and i wasn't really happy with the performance of the bar oil on my lathes either .

A few days ago i decided to bite the bullet and get some proper way oil and the reason i hadn't done this before was getting say 5lt or so isn't possible or if you have bottomless pockets you can pay$50 a litre .

I ended up with some Shell Tonna 68 as that is what my local industrial supply outlet sells .

First test was on my C2 lathe and even though i thought i was running the carriage and cross slide a bit tight one application of this stuff i had to re tighten the taper gibs on the carriage as the bed felt loose and the cross slide now feels silky smooth !

Now converted and i can't wait to load my mill with this stuff !

So David  are you complaining about being locked in your workshop

Edited By XD 351 on 13/03/2020 08:16:27

Edited By XD 351 on 13/03/2020 08:25:11

I watched this again for the 3rd time and the only time you will see him applying cutting fluid with a brush is in the first scene where he faces the stainless bolt - after that it is all dry .

You can change the arbour for the drill chucks to work with your draw bar or get an adapter that fits your chuck taper usually a JT to a parallel shank that you can use in your ER collet chuck so you don't need to remove it but it will reduce your z height a lot .

I would kill to buy a mill like that ! 

Edited By XD 351 on 13/03/2020 07:06:08

Edited By XD 351 on 13/03/2020 07:08:14

Not Dissing it but ..

I always get a chuckle when they use cutting fluid with carbide tooling but not when drilling with a HSS drill which would benefit more especially on stainless .

Quickest way i know of to bugger a grinding wheel other than bashing it with a hammer !

I got a good laugh yesterday when i looked on ebay for toilet tissue ( just for something to do ) , one seller was auctioning one roll which was at $5 at the time with one bid but the hilarious thing was the $8.99 postage !

I went to my local industrial supplies store and got all the dunny roll i could ever want and cheaper than what it usually is at a shopping centre outlet .

Could this bog roll buying frenzy spawn a new currency ? Bog coin perhaps ?

Here in OZ this stuff has now become more addictive than Heroin !

My suggestion would be to arm yourself with a tape measure and go out into your workshop and do some measurements of the area you want to place the mill . There is little use in having a mill with (a) amount of X axis travel and (b) X table length if the surrounding area is going to limit its travel to half of its useful range and the same goes for the height . So for my HM46 which has a table length of 730 mm and an X travel of 475mm i need 1505 mm total of space for my machine , 730+475+ (150x2) =1505. The 150x2 is some clearance for the handles on the end of the table and the 1505 mm would be the minimum i could work with.
If you are cramped in the Y axis this will be something to consider before anything else as it is set by the physical dimensions of the base ,Y axis handle and any overhang of the belt drive and cannot be changed without going to a smaller machine .

R8 vs MT - there a pros and cons for both , i went MT just because it is usable on my lathe as well as drill press and i had a heap of MT tooling like reamers and drills for my lathe already .

I generally recommend to buy as big a machine as possible in regards of table dimensions and Z axis height as you would be surprised how quickly it gets gobbled up once you fit a rotary table and a drill chuck !

Nothing wrong with round column mills you just need to be aware that the head can rotate of centre when lifting it which can cause problems but this feature can be useful as you can swing the head around to gain a bit more range in the X axis - the majority of the new machines today are dovetail column .

Nothing wrong with Asian made machines either and most of the time ( especially if you buy from a reputable seller ) you will only need to give it a clean up and adjust the gibs which you will have to do on a used machine anyhow .

Geared head vs belt drive and variable speed :

This may be governed by the size of the machine you can fit in your workshop. Geared head machines are convenient in regards to speed changes but can be limited by the amount of speed ranges available which can to some extent be rectified by fitting a 3ph motor and VFD if the machine is originally an AC machine and the gears can be a little noisy . If i were to buy another smaller mill i would go brushless DC.

Maybe the centrifugal clutch shoes from a 1/5 scale Baja buggy would do the job ? you should be able to get them via ebay or a local rc car / hobby store .

i think the shoes from a line trimmer would be a bit big as would be the shoes from a mini dirt monkey bike but you could also check them out - once again ebay is where i would start as some of the sellers do have stores that sell to the public if you don’t like buying through ebay .

https://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/DRO-.html
I got this off the amadeal site and it shows the pin markings , looking at the rear of the dro the connector pins from right to left are 5v, gnd , and the two wires to the opto sensor in the link below 

https://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/Sensor-Cable-for-CJ18-12A5-IC1-334.html#SID=13

I would disconnect the opto sensor as well when testing your voltages as it may have died and be pulling the 5v rail down .

Please be careful poking around in there with the power on , it only takes a slip and it can be lights out for you !

That schematic is not the official one it was drawn by a guy on another forum
https://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=6980.0

There is a link to it in the first post .

In the documentation it states that some values may not be correct so that 10K resistor could be 100R or 1k .

As Les mentioned it would be best if you can take a few pics as he may pick up on something you didn’t , maybe a bulged top on an electrolytic capacitor that will indicate a dead or leaky cap that will pull the 5v rail down . It is just a simple linear regulator and you may have troubles with a switchmode power supply like used for phone chargers or wall warts as they can be noisy and play havoc with the display .

Edited By XD 351 on 01/02/2020 01:15:53

Edited By XD 351 on 01/02/2020 01:17:53

29/32 ?

That is one weird vernier  - well it is to me anyways !

Edited By XD 351 on 25/01/2020 12:31:03

Edited By XD 351 on 25/01/2020 12:43:04

Not what i had in mind

On thingiverse you can probably also find things like a spring loaded bum wiper along with a laser fly swatter a solar powered torch and many more useless things that mankind doesn’t need .

All of those are just digital clocks that cast a shadow and how does it work in the dark ?
Now a really classy unit could be  made using a gps clock and a laser pointer on a classic sundial face and wouldn’t that make a different clock ! When it is dark a laser dot or line shows the time and when it is daytime it uses a shadow .

Now please tell me you own a rubber surface plate 😂

Edited By XD 351 on 25/01/2020 11:05:01

Edited By XD 351 on 25/01/2020 11:14:39