Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

I’m wondering if there might be some sort of friction clutch with a one way bearing in it to release the drag from the clutch when it is lifting , this could give a more controlled rate for lowering as the one way bearing would lock and activate the clutch . Maybe the 12v is enough to make it work in the lifting direction but not enough torque to overcome the clutch if it has one fitted ? What is hidden under that copper band ?
Just a thought !

I know that a local electronics mag has had issues with publishing projects that use mains power or control mains powered items , they have ample warnings throughout any published project warning of the dangers of mains power and the usual warning telling the reader that if they don’t know what they are doing with mains power get someone who is to wire it or at least check it before use- It is becoming more and more of a legal minefield !
I don’t see any problems as long as it mainly concerning electrical work after the wall plug and not how to re wire your workshop !

You could also add basic electronics into this thread to cover things like wiring stepper motors and drives , digital tachometers and Arduino/ microcontroller stuff.

What colour are the Metric ones ? I have been looking for these for donkeys years 😁

(The video seems to be the kind Neil's complaining about so it may not last long).

Why?
I must have missed that post
It is a link to a very popular channel that does some amazing things with 3 D printing .

It is not my Channel and i have no affiliation with but i do subscribe to it along with a couple of hundred other channels !

If it is to do with the sponsor/ sponsors he has or any advertising of them I can’t rectify that , i just fast forward past it ! Unfortunately more and more channels are going this way as the mighty dollar and mankind's lust for it has ruined a lot of if not all of youtube !

You might find something interesting in this video By cnc ktchen regarding nozzle size ,tolerance and bore finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zi5gA_tDE4Y&feature=share

I wonder if a 0.4 mm nozzle cleaner for oxy torches may be better if they are available in that size ?
I run stainless Nozzles and can honestly say i have never even give the tolerance of the hole a thought !

Did you try is at operating temperature ?

Just a thought .

Edited By XD 351 on 01/07/2020 20:04:35

If you take a look at Bundy bears YouTube channel you might get a few ideas for setting up in a container , Lance did this recently he seems happy with it . I have been considering moving into something a little bit bigger than a car trailer but this would mean downsizing on a major scale and there are other drawbacks like the trailer has to rego’d then inspected every year as it would have mass of over 750 kg which is the maximum mass before brakes must be fitted - a yearly PIA i could do without !

I can attest that the Lion build series is fantastic - i enjoy watching it very much !
I really should get off my lazy butt and make your floating reamer / tap holder although i would need to make an adapter to fit my morse taper reamers or modify the design to fit them .

Ian.

Edited By XD 351 on 21/06/2020 14:19:22

I’m guessing that these are for the governor ?
It isn”t difficult to make them , if you turn up some brass to the correct OD or just a little oversize then part off most of the way through at the same dimension then set up and cut a bit of a 45deg chamfer on each side and file to finish with the lathe rotating slowly you will be surprised at how quickly you can produce a ball .
I did this on my Roseberry engine and it worked out ok - they called for a 7/8 bronze ball which would have cost me $50! Probably half an hour of work on the lathe had that sorted for free!
Unless you are going to present this model in a show where it would be scrutinised to death no one is going to notice the fly weights on the governor .

I was wondering where the quick change gearbox for my mini lathe went to 😂
3D printers are really very good for “proof of concept “ when designing things .

https://www.lionlocomotive.org.uk/
https://youtu.be/C8ZlPa7rLEc

May be of some help , you could try contacting the guy in the video Via the comments section .

Ian.

Derek ,

I think your comment has epitomized the essence of what this forum is about !

There is no requirement to own any machinery , just a willingness to ask , learn and enjoy !

So you want a hole at x spot that runs true to y axis etc , etc so you drill a hole , now you need to bore it to make it run true before you ream it so why don't you just bore it to size anyway ?

That way you have full control and you cut out an operation that uses a tool you may not own !

I think you will find the Torx bit is only driving on the tips and in a high torque situation will fail - a bit like a 12 point socket verses a hex socket on a hex bolt or nut . There is a reason why impact sockets are all hex design .

Ok for PLA on my printer  i start with a nozzle temp around 210c and drop to 200 after the second layer but if i find the filament is a bit stringy i might drop to 180 - depends on how it prints .

0.4 nozzle

Bed temp is 80c and drops to 60 after second layer

Using buildtak a build surface which is on a piece of borosilicate glass on my hot bed .

Even batches of the same material from the same manufacturer can like different temps and you can sometimes pick this up on the first layer as one will put down a nice flat layer but the next filament  will look all knobly and rough along the edge as it lays it down - up the nozzle temp by 10 -15 deg and see if it gets better.

If you buy cheap rubbish filament you will suffer - trust me i know !

Speeds - start off slow work your way up - you have to crawl before you walk!

Don't buy into the exact temp crap as every printer is different so use what works for your printer , you may need to run a nozzle temp like 220  and a bed temp like 90 - it all depends on what your machine likes but the lower the better .

When you have maximised your constants you will have invariably minimised your variables 

Edited By XD 351 on 07/05/2020 14:32:14

Hi Boris ,

Also from Sydney and welcome to the forum .

Life long fisho - not so much with the fly but i used to build my own rods , mostly for beach and estuary fishing but they were all from modern materials like fibreglass and graphite . I thought that making split cane rods had become ( unfortunately ) a lot art in Australia and it makes me ever so happy to see someone practicing the art !

The feeling of catching a fish regardless of size on something you have created whether it be a fly , lure ,float , rod or reel is something only a Fisho knows !

Ian.

The hard thing is determining the thread angle on such a small fastener - that will tell you if it is UNF or BA for sure .

I would try a 4-48 screw and see if it fits , if it screws in and is a better fit than the BA screw then run with that .

You can buy some BA size fasteners through E&J Winter out at Bathurst along with taps and dies (Ben is pretty good to deal with )

You could also could try Model engineering supplies in Victoria ( never used them )

If you want taps and dies try LPR toolmakers they have a good range of carbon steel and HSS taps and dies and i can attest that they are decent quality and nice and sharp !
They all do internet sales and postal delivery
If you are having trouble getting 4-48 screws try Nepean boltmaster or if you are really really desperate blackwoods - although man will probably be living on the moon before you get your screws if they have to order them !

Ian.

I know what you mean ! I have the same printer !
Have you run a test at or near full capacity ? IIRC there are some X,Y,Z axis travel settings in the firmware (possibly to act as soft limits on the opposite end of each axis To where their respective limit switches are ?) Can’t 100% certain as it is a while back that i had to re load Marlin on my board . I know there are these settings in the slicer i use -Cura to stop one from trying to print something bigger than the build plate .

I had a similar problem and it would even occur if i left it in there overnight and i thought it was moisture doing it .

I mentioned this to a person i knew who has many years of experience with 3D printing ( as a profession) and he said it was one of the funny things with PLA and some brands will do it , others won’t , he also stated it was more likely caused by stress cracks forming as the filament is being forced to comply to a different shape than what it is on the spool which is what it had when made - ie it is being straightened out by the tube .

I had a couple of cheap rolls that did this and changed to a known brand and the problem went away - i still remove the filament when i finish a set of prints as it could be weeks or months before i use it again , this is stored in an airtight plastic box with some moisture absorbent beads .

This is only one in a long series of videos from Chris - each one more jaw dropping than the last ! His work is simply stunning !

If you are living in temporary exile like most of the planet sit back and watch all of his videos then if you still want more videos go to MrCrispin channel and have a look at the loco he is building then even after that if you still have a hunger for Youtube videos try Robrenz and Joe pieczynski.