Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

If you want something a lttle bit thinner use araldite 24 hr . Not sure how cyanoacrylate would go on bronze and the stuff is also brittle . Ideally you want a drop in fit for epoxy so if the bush is a tight fit you may need to fettle the hole a little.

When you are as bad a nicotine addict as i was where you would forgo food to buy smokes because the withdrawal symptoms were worse than hunger pangs ,it is very easy to fall into that rut and you begin to live a life that is totally controlled by that addiction .

I tried 4 times to quit the longest time lasted 12 months and it wasn't until my doctor prescribed some medication that i finally broke free from the damned things , i now cannot stand to be near someone that is smoking as i get headaches from it and have to leave the area . What irritates me the most is the government ( yours , mine and everyone else's) prey on these addicts for revenue , they should just ban it like all other addictive drugs and stop making money from others misery . Yes i know about the black market supply of tobacco and another strange thing is how is it legal to buy cigarettes but you can't grow your own tobacco - well not here in OZ as far as i know - only one thing can explian it - it can't be taxed .

Here in OZ we were trialling a benefits card where those on the dole could only buy food and pay rent etc on this card - they didn't get money deposited to their bank account just to this card but they circumnavigated that by buying food and re selling to pensioners cheaply for alcohol , drugs and smokes - true you just can't help some people no matter how hard you try !

JB weld , put a very light knurl on the outside of the bush or at least key it with coarse sandpaper or emery paper., degrease the bush with acetone or isopropyl alcohol then coat both parts with the JB and fit together . The join can only ever be as strong as the wood around it .

Seems i forgot how to count as well !

Anyhow i might as well add another one to the list - irritating the hell out of people , something ( probably the only thing) i have truly mastered .

I'm using "A" section V belts so i will have to loosen to change the belt from one pulley to the next as there is no stretch in these belts , I'm using them because they are readily available from many suppliers , cheap, reliable and so are the pulleys . Iused the multi v belt on the spindle because of its low profile otherwise i would have to hack away most of the alloy cover that the banjo fits to . I could use the inching function on the vfd for tapping also .

The guy in the back hanging onto the spare wheel cracked me up ! I have seen a few of these videos where the look of terror on the faces of some of the passengers is priceless !

One thing for certain Mal is you arein for a riveting experience !

Strictly speaking - no but they do make some operations easier and faster like power tapping / threading with a die . It also makes operations where you have to stop and measure frequently a bit easier and faster as you don't have to wait for the electronics to react to your input or for the motor to stop and start ,i know i can use the brake function to stop the chuck dead and use no or very little ramp up but I don't like such abrupt operations as it is hard on the driveline . It still remains to be seen if the friction or drag in the drivetrain will be enough to overcome the the drag from a loosened belt or open clutch and be enough to stop the spindle from turning while the motor is running but the benefit of being able to slip a clutch while power tapping makes the idea more attractive to me anyhow . I still have to make a mechanism to loosen the belt to change ratios and this would incorporate a lever and cam of some sort so that may be something that i can kill two birds with one stone with .

Ian.

Just a quick update as to the progress of my conversion so others can use the info if they wish .

My lathe has a previously fitted taper bearing conversion so some of the parts can be reused , i have now added grease nipples and grease ports to lubricate the bearings if wish . The alloy bearing covers have double lip seals fitted so the grease can only exit through the bearing and to the inside of the headstock .

The pulley and belt were purchased , they were cheap enough to not bother making the pulleys which are steel and come with a 10mm pilot hole . The 4mm key slot on the spindle for the back gear has been lengthened so it picks up the pulley bore and the collar that the seal rides on was made for the previous conversion and just needed shortening .

The alloy cover that the banjo fixes to will have two slots cut into it to allow the belt to exit to the rear of the headstock and this will run around the same size pulley that is on the spindle , this pulley will have transmission power fed to it via a set of "A" section V pulleys to allow a ratio change .

I still have to finish the layout of those pulleys as i want a clutch which can be activated by pulling a lever to loosen the drive belt , i did briefly consider modifying a manual clutch from one of those cheap minibikes on ebay but i think it may be more work than what it is worth - still undecided .

I will also be doing something with the tumbler gear set up as having the lever at the back is a pia , i might make a linkage system up so i can mount the positioning lever ontop of the headstock .

If Neil doesn't mind i will keep posting in this thread , I didn't want to start a new thread to post the occasional update.

Ian.

South coast of where ?

Anyone planning to look at the comet that is set to pass by earth on the 16th of Dec (  Comet 46P/Wirtanen ) not sure if will be visible worldwide though .

I started reading that in the news Michael but it just made my head hurt !

Edited By XD 351 on 06/12/2018 04:14:38

Edited By XD 351 on 06/12/2018 04:16:53

I reckon the guys in this video came away with "Jeep Bottom " and probably a few other serious injuries !

**LINK**

Any hints as to what they are ? By the time i type this you will probably have finished two of them 😁

Can't see why not although there can be no guarantees as t the amount of interest from other forum users but this is the same for pretty much all build threads , maybe post a preview to show what you intend to build ? Are you intending to build this from your own drawings or a set of plans that you have purchased ? Either way you may also want to look at doing a write up for M.E for the model and MEW custom tooling and fixtures you may have had to make .

Under the heading of hobbiesor interests which are all sort of interrelated to "Model Engineering " i would include 3D printing , CNC stuff & electronics .

Other than that Fishing/ camping , boating and 4wd , motor racing and Rugby league .

Used to target shoot but got sick of the travel and costs but still love the ballistic sciences , occasionally have a crack on playstation although this is nowdays becoming a rare event .

I do have a fairly broad interest in history , archeology, palaeontology etc but these are really only satellite interests .

I really try to keep my interests to a fairly narrow field as i am easily distracted and tend to go off on a tangent at the drop of a hat !

if it is clogging up the sight glass i wonder what it is doing to the oilways inside the headstock ?

I'm not familiar with the model of lathe but on my lathe the spindle bearings are lubricated using oil fling off from the gears , wouldn't a tacking agent in the oil cause it to string and not want to fling off ?

Hi Phil,

Model engineers have been coddling together these sorts of thing for donkeys years , Harold Hall has some useful designes which you can get either from the workshop practice series of books or iirc his website or if you want to go the whole hog the acto tct design does just about everything but is a far more complex project .

One thing to be mindful of with bench grinders is armature end float , all electric motors have to have some end float to allow for expansion and this is usually taken up by a wavy washer in one end bearing housing so check to see how much end float you have and minimise it as much as possible .

But check out that finish on the Gold paint !

I usually look for unopened boxes , if the seller has posted a photo of the code on the box and clearly stated new old stock in unopened boxes or at the worst have opened one box to photograph contents i will buy or bid . If as most of the time happens they are selling part boxes i usually move on , you also need to check what the retail price is so you know you are getting a reasonable deal . I have seen sellers put a price on inserts that is on par with what my local retailer asks and then slug you with exorbitant postage costs . One thing i did do was to minimise the types of inserts i need so I don’t have to buy a heap of differnt types.

The look interesting ! Can’t say i have seen them before ,i wonder how long it will be before a clone show up on ebay ?

My bank started charging for printed monthly statements so it kind of forces me to go to the E - statements .

If all shose sheets are only printed single side you could use the other side for a workshop sketch pad