Here is a list of all the postings MadMike has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Door stay help |
10/08/2020 17:20:40 |
Nine months old? get the crew back that fitted it. Do not alter anything until they have sorted it as they will simply accuse you of tampering. |
Thread: Airbrushing advice needed |
10/08/2020 17:13:52 |
Talking about Pulse/ram jets, here is my totally sane accountant friend who has fitted a jet to his moped/sidecar outfit. Oooops how do i rotate 90 degrees clockwise?
Edited By MadMike on 10/08/2020 17:16:07 Edited By MadMike on 10/08/2020 17:17:58 Edited By JasonB on 10/08/2020 17:18:16 |
Thread: Triumph motorcycle auction |
08/08/2020 23:10:11 |
Are you guys serious about never seeing a Hinckley Triumph? they have been making them in Hinckley for about 30 years and as a business they are a true British success story. However like most companies in the "motor trade" they have taken to building their machines in the far east. there are obvious cost benefits, and of course that is where they see future growth potential. It is simply another case of globalisation which afflicts/benefits nearly all manufacturing industries. For example look at where your American iphone is made......China. Your BMW motorcycle is often made in Thailand or China. Washing machines, clothes all electronic equipment all made in the far east. Indeed even hobby lathes and mills are from where? Oh yes China. Oh yes I forgot to add apart from my Nortons, and a 1959 Meriden built Triumph, I also have a Hinckley built Triumph. Edited By MadMike on 08/08/2020 23:12:00 Edited By MadMike on 08/08/2020 23:17:02 |
Thread: Is a drip feed coolant advisable |
22/07/2020 00:04:15 |
I guess that the coolant feed method is really dependent upon what you make, the material being cut and the type of machine being used. I use traditional machines, a Myford 254S and a Seig mill. So I tend to simply pump feed coolant to the cutting surface. In my early days the use of drip feed and mist were frowned upon, as our apprentice trainer insisted that coolant is exactly that, coolant. He was adamant the simply brushing, squirting from a squeezy bottle or drip feeding would not do very much except make the work piece dirty. I continue in this way to this day and the result is higher cutting speeds, better finish and longer tool life. Other opinions are available. |
Thread: Using Counterbores |
21/07/2020 23:56:50 |
I have over the years found that the quality of commercially available cap screws has deteriorated, particularly if they are sourced from China. As I use them on parts for my motorbikes and on friends bikes, I make two mods. Firstly I mount them in a collet, and lightly remove the radius that has grown over the years where the head meets the main shank. Then I turn the outer diameter of the cap head to make it truly round and concentric with the main bolt shank. Over the years I have made and/or sourced counter bore tools to suit the modified head dimensions. This means a much tighter fit and a much more precise appearance to the finished work.
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Thread: where to buy a good open morse taper 4->3 sleeve |
17/07/2020 16:57:27 |
Well I would have absolutely no hesitation in buying the MT4/3 socket from Arc Euro. However before doing that perhaps it would be wise to clock the machine spindle to see if it has excessive run out, and/or play in the bearings. |
Thread: New hobby lathe for retired engineer? |
05/05/2020 23:09:29 |
I guess that after all this discussion it would help to move things along, and hopefully allow people to make alternative suggestions if we knew your budget. The sort of spec you have identified almost certainly does not exist in the Chinese mini-lathe market. Remember that Ketan, who sells fine machines, has openly turned away your business because of your spec which then may actually exceed your expectations. So how much do you want to spend? It occurs to me also that if we knew roughly where you are located then some, including me and I suspect my friend Chris Evans, may be able to let you see their alternatives. I do not have a lathe as big as Chris's but it will cope with a 10 inch diameter swing. It is a Myford 254S and is far superior in every respect, in my opinion, than the traditional ML7 etc Myford's and every Chinese mini-lathe on the market. I live in Leicestershire and less than an hour from Chris. So when this lockdown is over, and you are close to the East Midlands, come and visit and see what can be done in regard to motorbike parts. HTH.
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Thread: Srorm Ciara |
10/02/2020 14:40:43 |
I /we have no doubt felt the force of Storm Ciara. However I see that Mytholmroyd in West Yorkshire has suffered both flooding and storm damage. Mytholmroyd is, of course, the home of RDG and thus Myford. Does anybody know if they have suffered any damage? I certainly hope that they are all safe. |
Thread: Run outs |
11/12/2019 13:36:45 |
What Howard says is correct and actually very fundamental to the accuracy of turned work. Whilst you have clocked the nose of your lathe, what you need to do, if you have not done so, is to insert a length of bar into your collet and turn the piece. Then clock the work piece itself, and you will probably find that your small amount of run out will disappear. It is run out on a finished piece which matters after all. |
Thread: 3 jaw runout problems |
05/10/2019 00:00:43 |
Thanks for that clarification Richard. I have a 3 JC which has no dimensional problems such as you describe, and if I turned some stock, the opened the jaws and rotated the piece by 90 degrees as you describe, I would not expect the component to be any different to the one you describe. As I said earlier a 3JC is merely a holding device not an accurate fixture or jig. The only ways to get the component to run true after releasing it from the chuck are as I described earlier. If you fancy a trip to Leicestershire then I will happily demonstrate the problems and the solutions for you. I have a D1/3 Camlock fixing on my 3JC and so at least the chuck will always locate in the same place. Let me know if you fancy a trip to discuss and play.
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04/10/2019 19:32:23 |
I was aware of the nature of the chuck jaw mounting from Richards description. However there remained the real state of the term "running out" and he has now clearly identified that there is no run out when in operation. Which leads me to one last question for Richard if I may...……….when you measured the "run out" of 0.3mm on one jaw, was that with the jaws clamping on a piece of stock, or were the jaws unclamped? |
04/10/2019 13:44:03 |
Richard, thank you for confirming that in reality there is zero run out using your 3 jaw chuck. So your concern is really that if you remove the part from the chuck and turn it, presumably end for end, to turn the unmachined end then it will probably not match the pre-machined diameters. Frankly this will occur using any 3 jaw chuck, no matter how true it appears to rotate. Remember that a 3 jaw chuck is no more than a work holding device, it is NOT an accurate fixture/jig to allow for repositioning. How to overcome this problem? Well there are a number of options which will depend upon size of turned piece, available equipment, your skill level and, not least, your available funds. (1) Get a 4 jaw chuck and clock in the reversed component to stand a chance of matching the pre-turned diameter. (2) Get some soft jaws and turn a suitable size to receive the part. (3) Use a collet to re-locate the piece. (4) Turn the component between centres and remove the problems associated with any kind of chuck. Although there are many "valid" suggestions on this thread, you will only truly resolve the problem by identifying the cause, rather than focussing on the symptom(s) that you have seen. As Howard has asked, where are you located? If you ere near to Leicester then you will be most welcome to come and visit me for a more detailed discussion, or I am happy to come to you if that is easier. |
03/10/2019 23:02:34 |
Richard thanks for your reply. I understood what you had discovered from your earlier posting. What I was trying to establish was what happens when you put a piece of say 3/4 or 1 inch bar in the chuck and turn down the OD by say a 1/4 of an inch (6mm). Do you get a round bar of common size along its length, and which is not tapered or eccentric? |
02/10/2019 23:44:31 |
Richard, I wonder if you could just clarify what you mean by the 3 jaw chuck running out, please. Is it simply the fact that one jaw is 0.30mm further advanced than the others? Or is it an out or round condition on a turned length of bar? You haven't explaibned just what you have measured. I ask because a 3 jaw chuck body is not guaranteed to run true. What matters is whether the turned component is true and parallel. |
Thread: Total Beginner |
26/09/2019 14:45:34 |
Welcome Ian. Before you pick a lathe, I suggest that you really think about what you want to make, and more importantly, with old motorbikes, what you might need to make. Wheel spindles? You will need to be able to work over a 12 to 16 inch length of component. Skim a brake drum? perhaps a 10 inch diameter will be a necessity. the list goes on and on. If making studs and other fasteners then for originality you will need to be able to cut Cycle threads (26 and 20 TPI thread pitch). For old British bikes you can buy hexagon bar in stainless to allow the use of BSW spanners. So I would suggest you look for an Imperial machine rather than a metric one. Many of the cheaper Chinese lathes are possibly only available as Metric machines. I am in Leicestershire, and if you want to come over and discuss what you need etc just let me know. |
Thread: Work holding? |
24/09/2019 14:43:09 |
I have just seen this thread so my apologies for a late entry, as it were.
As usual there is a lot of well meant, and good advice. However perhaps we need a tad more information. How long is your piece of 32mm stainless? What OD do you want to achieve? How accurate do you want the concentricity of the OD and the Bore? How accurate do you want the final thickness? The nominal difference between the OD and the bore is a mere13mm, that is a 6.5 mm thickness of metal. Why has nobody suggested the obvious. Face off the bar, turn your required OD, drill and bore, if it needs to be that accurate to require boring, the through hole and then simply part of the required thickness. If the finish is critical, turn it in the jaws. Set it accurately in place and just face off the second side.
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Thread: Why does the micrometer have a second knurled segment |
06/09/2019 23:18:31 |
Chris TickTock, I see you are after a 0 to 0.5" micrometer. there is a Moore & Wright one for sale on e-bay. Seller is in Esher. HTH. |
05/09/2019 14:42:44 |
Not wishing to be controversial, but is this a serious question? |
Thread: Stripped the drive belt on my Chinese Mini lathe |
03/09/2019 00:13:29 |
Jim have you spoken to Ketan at Arc Euro? He is very helpful. |
Thread: Mini mill or handtools for this job (rectangle with slots) |
03/09/2019 00:08:31 |
Jim if you have access to a Sieg mill then I would use it. It will give you a much better finish, repeated accuracy and in a fraction of the time you would take with hand tools. Although I have not made any of these I have recently made some aluminium adjustable brackets of similar proportions and with similar slots. They took minutes on my Sieg.
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