Here is a list of all the postings Chris machin has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Will electrical 'multicore 'solder adhere to brass ? |
22/07/2012 21:53:17 |
Hi All,currently making one of Elmers engines (no 24 beam engine) which calls for a couple of 1mm drilled holes to be 'plugged'. I have some silver solder and the correct flux but am unable to reach the neccecary temperature to use the solder due to incorrect torch and an almost empty gas bottle. I'm wondering if for this simple job I could plug the holes with the much lower temperature electricians solder ? Is this possible and will it 'stick' to the brass ? Any help appreciated Chris. |
Thread: Elmers #24 Beam engine - Can anyone help with question about the cylinder ? |
08/07/2012 10:43:57 |
Hi All, Just attempting the cylinder for Elmers no 24 beam engine but have a query about the bores.I see that the main bore is 1 1/32 long but the smaller bore seems to go right through the length of the block and hence has no bottom - is ths correct or am i missing something ? I've know i've posted no drawings but am hoping someone has built this engine before and perhaps are aware of the bore i'm mentioning ...... Any help much appreciated Chris. |
Thread: #3-48 on Elmers drawings - is this a standard pitch M3 die. |
25/06/2012 22:54:29 |
Once again , thanks everyone for taking the time to help - much clearer now. Much appreciated
Chris. |
24/06/2012 22:08:22 |
Hi , just after a bit of info : Got to turn a 3/32 brass rod with #3-48 threads on either end. Do i use a standard pitch M3 die nut for this and what size do i turn the end of the rod to before running the die down it ? The material is brass.
Thanks for any help....Chris. |
Thread: Firefly .46 crankcase |
23/06/2012 20:47:22 |
And has already been mentioned , here's another 'yes' for a build thread.......Please.. Chris |
Thread: Firefly article in model engineer |
22/06/2012 08:59:23 |
Terryd - Many thanks , i'm going to print off and laminate those drawings and have a good look before starting.Think this will be my next project after i complete my current which is Elmers #46 Beam engine.By that time you'll be well ahead of me so might be asking a few questions if thats ok ?
Thanks again for the drawings Chris. |
21/06/2012 17:29:03 |
Hi Jason B , Thanks for your reply , i've already had a look at your very helpful photo's. I am a beginner and have succesfully made a couple of Elmers engines but fancied an i/c engine so when this came up i thought i'd give it a go but definitley need guidance. Always a worry when there's a possibility of confusion over the drawings
Don't fancy doing a full detailed build thread for the absolute beginner do ya Thanks again for your help Chris. |
21/06/2012 16:24:23 |
Hi All , I bought Vol 208 (number 4432) of model engineer and am interested in the Firefly I/C Engine. I see this is part 2 and was wondering if i have missed any drawings or critical info in part 1 ? Chris. |
Thread: Fitting Digital readouts (DRO's) to Clarke CMD10 mini mill. |
19/06/2012 14:31:32 |
No-One Surely someone must have some pics of the way they fitted them regarding bracketry e.t.c. ?
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18/06/2012 18:21:25 |
Hi All , I'm looking to fit DRO's to my Clarke CMD 10 Mini mill soon to make machining easier. I believe this machine is almost identical to the siek x1 mill ? Measuring the travel of the table , the 'left to right' axis travels approx 12"" and the front to back axis travels approx 6". Just wondered where to buy and if anyone has any pics or advise regarding how and where to fit them. Any help apprciated.
Many Thanks ...Chris. |
Thread: Marking out / drilling holes in precisley the correct place ! |
01/06/2012 17:13:45 |
Hi All , Having had to mark out several holes in plate , bar e.t.c. since i started a few models i'm finding it very hard to get the drilled holes in exactly the correct place. The problem is centre punching the hole in exactly the correct place ! I mark out the metal with a very sharp scriber then centre punch using a good sharp punch and even using a magnifying glass to try to ensure the punch mark is precisley on the marked out centre and then centre drill and drill but i always find the hole to be out by 10 thou or perhaps more. How do you guys get the hole spot on. Any advice / echnique much appreciated Ta Chris. |
Thread: Anyone got a list of Elmers abbreviations ? |
18/05/2012 13:08:22 |
Hi all , As per thread title has anyone got a list of the abbreviations used on Elmer Verburgs engine plans ? I am having a go at no 24 Beam engine and there are letters such as c,s,b on the drawings , what do they mean Any help much appreciated Thanks Chris. |
Thread: Chester Conquest lathe just gone 'pop' ! |
22/04/2012 21:29:38 |
Oshb5 , At what speed does the lathe turn when the rotary speed pot is set to zero ? If it turns very slowly (probably accompanied by a 'buzzing sound from the motor) it sounds like the 'min speed' potentiometer on the circuit board needs turning down (anticlockwise) very slightly. As mentioned take great care if you attempt this , let me know how you get on Chris. |
19/04/2012 14:11:04 |
Hi All , Many thanks for all the help and advice. I have replaced the D8010L Diode that was blown and now the lathe is back in action. As a precaution i have ordered some spare diodes as they are hard to come by and delivery from digi-key e.t.c. is expensive. If anyone needs any diodes let me know. Thanks again everyone
Chris. |
Thread: Why not have a profile? |
09/04/2012 20:46:32 |
Hi Ian , Point taken , just updated my profile , I'm in Matlock in Derbysjire. Cheers
Chris. |
Thread: Chester Conquest lathe just gone 'pop' ! |
09/04/2012 20:02:23 |
Hi Les Thats excellent info , many thanks. Hopefully after replacing the blown diode i'll be up and running. Going to my local electronic component shop tommorow and i'll give it a go and report back. Once again , thanks for taking the time and effort to help - its much appreciated. Chris.
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09/04/2012 17:56:05 |
Hi , The speed controller is made by KB Electronics in America and is the model KBLC-240D. I have removed the circuit board from the lathe and after examining it i have found that one of the power diodes has 'blown'. Apparantly these (or an alternative part) are available so i'm going to have a go at replacing this one component and hope for the best.I'll post the result as hopefully this will help someone else Chris
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09/04/2012 11:30:03 |
Hi All , Just been taking about 30 thou cut on my conquest and there was a pop and the machine stopped with a blown fuse on the control panel (5A Fuse). I have replaced the fuse but it blew again immediately. Just wondering if anyone has knowledge of these lathe electrics. Is it likely that the motors burnt out or perhaps the triacs ? How do i test it ? Any help appreciated Chris. |
Thread: How do i make this eccentric part for elmers beam engine ? |
08/04/2012 10:58:16 |
sorry , here;s the pic http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/whitebeetle/beameccentric001.jpg |
08/04/2012 10:55:13 |
Hi All , looking thro the drawings before i order the materials for Elmers #24 beam engine , can anyone tell me how this eccentric part is made ? Any help appreciated Chris[ IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/whitebeetle/beameccentric001.jpg[/IMG] |
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