Member postings for peak4

Many thanks, now had I looked in my "Watched Items" list, rather than searching then whole of ebay, I might have re-found it before you posted.

Maybe need more coffee in the mornings

Bill

I wondered that, but the headstock end pulley seems domed, as for a belt drive, but the tailstock end seems flat.

I did wonder if it was to allow a friction drive of the tailstock for a rubber wheel, perhaps driving, rather than driven??

Is the listing still up?

Nick, where in the country are you?

If it's within sensible travelling distance of Buxton Derbyshire, come and look at one in the flesh and drink coffee.

Regards

Bill

I saw it myself, but can't find the listing now.

I wondered if it was for grinding between centres?

Certainly not a gimmick; I only have the tool you see in the photo, but it works fine up to 6mm.

If access is tight, you can make up a one off tool using a nut and allen bolt to compress the insert.

I just wish that the chap who built my Marlin kit car had discovered them, rather than using loose nuts and washers that need a major stripdown to get anything off.

All the best

Bill

Just spotted this on Gumtree for £250, which I guess is worth it even to break for parts.

**LINK**

Not seen it personally and have no connection with the seller.

All the best

Bill

This may well open a can of worms, but have a look at Rollie's Dad's method of lathe alignment,

It's essentially the same method I used, before I was even aware of it, where, in my case, I employed a 2MT test bar and a dial gauge. Because you are only using a clock gauge, there are no cutting forces to consider.

In my case I couldn't afford a proper certified test bar, but found a brand new, beautifully machined and ground 2MT extension sleeve for £5 from a government surplus store.

I used that to set up the twist in the bed, though using the screw threads on the Myford raising block, rather than sheets of paper. Because it's 2MT, I didn't even need to use a chuck.

I then added a 2MT stub arbour to the 2MT extension, which allowed me to set it up between centres, and was thus able to set the tailstock offset correctly.

When I then used the "dogbone" testpiece mentioned above, with a very light cut, everything came out closer than I could measure with a micrometer, albeit not a 10,000" one.

"Levelling" the lathe is advantageous, but not vital. I've no personal experience of it, but from what I can gather, it's more important with large lathes in industry where the sheer size can allow the bed to distort under its own weight, if the cast in concrete floor mounts aren't perfectly level. I this case the precision level is used across the bed, at both ends in the same way that a wood worker would use "winding sticks" to check for a twist in the workpiece.

Sorry, too far from me in Buxton/Sheffield.

Are you sure you have all the windings the correct way round?

Lets call the old connections A,B,C, and their relevant star points As, Bs, & Cs.

I believe the delta connections should be;

As-B, Bs-C, Cs-A with the inverter supplying those connection points.

I've not yet done this myself, but have brought my motor up here to do the job.

Jason, any idea why it's died?

It may end up being easier to get it mended, with it wired as star, and get a suitable inverter to drive it.

Whereabouts in the country are you?

Bill

Here's some 6mm in China

**LINK**

According to the links, the Imax B6 does up to 15 cells.

I have a 19.2v pack I'd like to improve a bit as new ones are a small fortune, so does anyone have any recommendations for a reconditioning charges for 16+ cells please. (Sealey CP3004 1/2" impact driver)

Failing that I may try one of these B6 chargers and dive into the battery pack and split it into two halves.

I appreciate I could re-cell it for about £45

Thanks

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 07/05/2017 11:00:21

It does separate, but I just keep it in a small resealable bottle and shake vigorously before use.

Seems to work well enough compared to other commercial products, but obviously has the same limitations.

Here's an interesting link. referring to a comparative test, apparently from April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison.

Bill

Have you given it a good soaking in a freeing agent and left it to rest for a while.

Plusgas is highly recommended, but I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.

Obviously the acetone evaporates off quite quickly, but keep dribbling it into the thread over a day or three, whilst regularly tapping the end of the bolt/stud. Think about which way it was loaded before it sheared; tapping it "end on" might help loosen it. Similarly tightening slightly before trying to release it might assist too.

I'm with John on the things you screw into a hole in the stud; as he says, they're prone to expanding it, the if they get enough grip, when they finally break in the hole, you're left with a hardened plug to try and extract.

The Bolt Extractors on this page from Irwin are well thought of by the bike and Landrover fraternity, if you have enough of the bolt sticking out..

Also, you mention Adjustable Spanner, do you mean small stilsons, or are you using an adjustable on the end of a stud extractor?

Maths obviously isn't the vendor's strong point. He had 5 when I posted, I nabbed one, as did you, and now he's only got 8 left if anyone else wants one.

Seems a good price.

A bit like one of these on ebay you mean?

Regards

Bill

OK, so different to the diagram in BobH's link then; that would explain the problem, so don't try just pulling it out then. Unfortunately this forum's software won't let me edit my previous post.

Edited By peak4 on 01/05/2017 12:13:43

I may be missing something blindingly obvious here, but isn't there a second bronze piece below the one in your photo, seen on the underneath of the tailstock casting?

If so, surely tapping the end of the thread downwards will extract both stud and bronze part downwards.

The two brassy coloured bits should be free to move in the hole in order to clamp the tailstock barrel in place.

If it's a blind hole, so the parts won't punch through downwards, straight through the casting, then I guess you need to pull them upwards using a length of tube, a washer and a nut on the end of the stud. Since you've not got much thread to play with, you might need to pack it up several times.

On the H&S aspect, the majority of the pulleys wouldn't concern me personally, but unless you're folically challenged, I'd be tempted to arrange a basic curved sheet metal guard for the front of the top pulley.

It might just save getting scalped.

Has the previous owner dived into the windings to find the star point, and re-wired it as delta?

If so, it would effectively be a 220v motor.

I've got exactly that job to investigate myself when I get more time.

You could have a read of this post and see if you can find out how the OP got on.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=123870

Edited By peak4 on 26/04/2017 21:30:14

Edited By peak4 on 26/04/2017 21:30:41

Has anyone here tried Evaporust on the inside of motorcycle petrol tanks, prior to sealing them from ethanol attack?