Member postings for peak4

I'd test them on some known material, which I accept your scrap bin my contain; that way there's only the one variable.

Regards for the New Year

Bill

See P 53 of This pdf Catalogue where it suggests

"For cutting even, parallel cuts often essential in holding tight tolerance slots or keyways. • Normally used in finishing milling slots and keyways. "

Always assuming they're not router cutters of course.

Bill

And the latest news on the carrier for anyone still interested;

HMS Queen Elizabeth to urgently sail to Arctic Circle in coming days to support air transport mission

Bill

I would suggest not, as was pointed out in a link at the head of Page 2 on this very thread.

More likely a bit abandoned fishing gear, or some other such flotsam/jetsam, at a guess.

Quote

" Aircraft carrier HMS Queen Elizabeth has picked up an item of debris around one of her propeller shafts officials have confirmed, quashing earlier rumours of a major malfunction."

Can't see why it wouldn't be genuine enough, just a mistake in allowing ebay to add postage price.

I don't think my postie would like to carry a lathe up from the delivery office, even though it's only at the end of the road. I's not sure the first class stamp would stick to it anyway.

OK Folks, there's any number of videos on Youtube which explain the principal of "Rotational Magnetic Fields"

Inevitably some are better than others, and some longer than others.

Here's a couple of the longer ones,

so make sure you know how to fast forward videos ;

The first explains reasonable well how the generated field rotates, the speed effect of the number of poles and a few other bits.

Start off by getting your head round his explanation of poles and pole pairs, then you can keep fast forwarding a bit to the diagrams from about 22 minutes, where it becomes obvious that what you are seeing is analogous to a N-S pole bar magnet rotating smoothly either clockwise or anti-clockwise.

If one reverses a winding's polarity, as opposed to a phase supply, the N-S,N-S,N-S,N-S,N-S,N-S,etc suddenly becomes N-S,N-S,S-N,N-S,N-S,S-N etc, which clearly isn't conducive to either full mechanical power output or smooth running.

Video-1

When you've got your head round that, have a look at another video in the series, Motor Connection Diagrams, regarding star/delta etc, but please note that most of the discussion in our thread here revolves around a motor running in either 415v Star config, or 240v delta config, rather than using star to start the motor and then switching to delta for when it's then rotating.

Video-2

He also has one on inverters etc, which I've not seen yet

Video-3

Edited By peak4 on 20/12/2017 20:40:07

Edited By peak4 on 20/12/2017 20:40:34

Here, you go folks, a couple of links for you;

SaveTheRoyalNavy.org which has a few comments on the issue.

And for those of you with a Facebook account;

**LINK**

Quote from above, where they also show photos of the seals.

"For those with a more technical interest these are the components of the Wartsila "M" series stern tube seals fitted to HMS Queen Elizabeth. They are designed to be serviced in place on the ship and no need for dry dock. No prop or tail shaft removal needed.

A stern seal face has minor damage, behind this is an emergency inflatable seal. This will be inflated & divers will pack out the stern tube. The rotating faces can then be changed.

BTW since coming alongside the leakage rate has been zero."

**LINK**

DW Please check your inbox

Bill

No experience of storing machine tools outdoors, just machines with two wheels.

The current favourite of motorcyclists seems to be ACF-50 available as a spray.

As well as chucks, tailstock etc, try and do something to keep the damp out of the motor windings, even if it means bringing that indoors too.

Regards

Bill

Sorry I've been late replying, as I intended to line a new drawer and supply a photo, but been busy elsewhere.

I'd planned to show a layer of Ikea Anti-Slip carpet underlay on top of a sheet of Brown VCI paper. but one's still rolled up, and the other's in its delivery envelope.

Must start work earlier tomorrow.

Regards

Bill

Phil, Not wishing to fall out with anyone, but the makers of this particular motor (Elektrim SH71-4B) would appear to disagree with you; when the motor is connected for 240v 3 phase running, they show the following, both on the motor itself, and their instruction manual, which can be downloaded from the link above.

U1 ~ W2 V1 ~ U2 W1 ~ V2

The OP seems to have resolved his issue by fitting an alternative motor now.
Obviously I can't say, for certain, that Peter's motor should follow suit, but presumably it says on his motor cover plate.

Regards

Bill

p.s. looks like we were typing at the same time, but I took longer sorting out the relevant link.

Edited By peak4 on 18/12/2017 22:01:54

Dave, what you are saying is absolutely correct, some of my old PCs used to have both a 9 and 25 pin D Type serial interface ports plus a 25 pin D Type Parallel printer port as well (before moving onto Centronics parallel ports)

The difference, as I recall is that, with respect to the PC, both the serial ports were male, with the pins resident on the PC, whereas the parallel D Type was female with the pin sockets on the PC.

Sam, Does the physical dongle have gold pins or pin sockets on??

Also, before expending to much time and energy, will your software run on a later version or windows? It may struggle if it used unconventional codes in conjunction with the dongle

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 18/12/2017 10:38:36

Before I retired I was involved in using laptops without Rs232 ports to program kit with serial interfaces.

Most USB to serial leads didn't work for some of the kit, due to limitations/restrictions in the particular terminal emulation software used for that particular box of tricks.

From what I remember, it was because the terminal software on the laptop used the serial port in a non standard way, perhaps using odd interrupts. We did eventually find a particular brand of cable that worked, but I couldn't use it on some different kit.

Since your use involves a dongle for copyright reasons, it may well use the Rs232 port in an unconventional way, so it might be a bit hit and miss which lead works and which doesn't.

I'd certainly try an extra internal IO card, if a conversion lead(s) doesn't work first though.

As a last resort, how about leaving your old PC/laptop running the CAD, but network it to the new PC and run it remotely.

Do the CAD publishers have a solution?

Bill

Phil and Dave, I've limited experience with inverters, just having the one running at the moment on my Centec, but with a couple more ready to wire up when I get the chance.

The easiest way for me to check out windings is to use a "megga" (or megohm meter), mine can be set up to measure high resistances, at 240, 500, or 1000v (i.e. to seek winding to earth, or winding to winding faults)

It can also be set up to measure very low resistances (i.e. earth continuity, and in this case coil winding continuity)

The combination of the two readings should help point to any faults in the motor, other than winding polarity reversals. It won't help deduce whether a motor will work with a digital inverter happily, even if it tests OK

N.B I'm not a qualified sparky, though I have produced the odd spark or two over the years.

I've just been out to the workshop and taken the cover off a brand new motor, bought to go on the Dore-Westbury mill; I've not had chance to fit it yet. The photos below show the interior terminal strip and the cover plate which shows where to fit the bus bars for 415v Star configuration, or 240v Delta config. As you can see, it's presently wired for Star, so I'll need to re-jig it for my 240v output inverter.

In this case, rather than A~B~C the windings are labelled U~V~W. so the following, and my previous diagram may be leading you the wrong way up the garden path.

The top row of bus bars are configured to give a star point, commoning all the coil-2 terminals together, with 415v 3 phase to each coil-1 terminal.

They are numbered left to right out of alphabetic sequence W2~U2~V2 but that doesn't matter for Star as they are commoned together. (It's to make it easier to re-config for Delta)

The bottom row are labelled in sequence U1~V1~W1. As you can see, winding U ~ red, V ~ Brown & W ~ Black

The "1" terminations have even been dabbed with blue paint/lacquer.

Now for 240v Delta, the bus bars are oriented North/South, as per the diagram in the lid below. (We're only concerned with the left hand two diagrams, as the RH ones are for single phase.)

Thus the common points are, from Left to Right;

U1 ~ W2 assuming U=A, V=B & W=C I think this equates to A1 ~ C2

V1 ~ U2 """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" B1 ~ A2

W1 ~ V2 """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""C1 ~ B2

Which is what I think my previous diagram shows,

N.B  I may be in error assuming an A~B~C motor is equivalent to U~V~W one, which I accept may well not be the case.

Does your cover plate have a similar diagram, if so, make sure you follow that in case AEI use different terminology for their windings; I can't find anything on the net about their config.

Good Luck

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 17/12/2017 21:02:16

I hope this copies OK and explains the thoughts of some on here.

Peter, before I read your last post, I've tried to answer that one in a PM. The suggestion isn't to swap the supply wires round, rather swapping the orientation of one of the sets of windings which form one side of the triangle of windings in delta configuration.

Bill

I've rarely, if ever, come across a normal carbon type resistor go Short Circuit, only go High Resistance, or Open Circuit.

Capacitors on the other hand...........

Regarding the little beepy flashy pen mains detectors, I've never been comfortable with them to detect the absence of mains, just the presence of a voltage. It's always hard to prove a negative.

The way I sometimes use one is to clip or place it next to the circuit to be tested, such that it is bleeping/flashing permanently. Then when you turn off the switch and the detector notices, you know you've isolated the correct circuit; assuming that it's not dual fed of course.

Also, even with a meter, test the tester before testing the circuit, to help prevent false readings.

Bill

A photo of the wiring inside the motor's connection box may assist someone to help you diagnose the issue with your motor.

Whereabouts are you in the country?

Bill

Roberts and Pure were the first two I looked at, but no LW, though I thought TMS was on DABS+
JL are good to buy from though due to the 2 year warranty.

Bill

The only thing I can find is an old Sony, now discontinued. **LINK** though there's a used one on ebay at the moment.

Good luck in your search. I understand your difficulty; last week's birthday present didn't seem to hit the requirements, so fingers crossed for Christmas.

Bill