Member postings for peak4

I can't work out whether I know your name just from here, or work as well.
Does Eldon House ring any bells?

Bill (though I was knows as Steve there; it's a long story)

Yes I'd guessed, but thanks for the extra info.
FTTP isn't yet available here, so I'd still have to be FTTC, which is plenty fast enough for our needs; the limit for our data transmission is upstream.

I'd wondered about Zen, as I think they have a good reputation, but it looks like their VOIP product, also called Digital Voice, only works by plugging a phone into the router's socket, and probably OK extending wiring, so long as it falls within the router's REN supply capabilities.

I was earlier referring to BT's Digital Voice Adaptor, which would make life easier here, than trying to re-use the pre-wired copper phone cabling which is all plastered in from when the house was built in '95; the way it's been done isn't obvious, and I suspect has hidden underfloor junction boxes.
https://www.bt.com/help/user-guides/phones/digital-voice/digital-voice-adapter

Unfortunately, I think this adaptor only works with a BT home hub.

Bill

Yes, I was one who joined PO Telephones in 1979 on internal construction, and remained on those duties until the end of my working life, though I progressed from exchange construction (Strowger, operator services, & AXE10) to transmission construction, co-ax and fibre.

I'm now supplied at home by Plusnet via FTTC, but they won't provide a VOIP service in the future after copper switch-off.
Hence no landline style phones will be available, mobiles only.

I could do with the use of a conventional phone as well as mobile, so am currently thinking of moving to BT as they supply Digital Voice, which allows the use of a conventional phone in a wi-fi enabled mains adaptor, a bit like a wi-fi repeater/booster.

Has anyone else made that transition?

Bill

I've not tried that, but assuming finances allow, how about an internally toothed gear such as these, along with the appropriate spur gear(s) on the motor.
https://www.hpcgears.com/n/products/6.internal_gears/internal_gears.php

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 28/08/2023 20:31:41

Here's a similar one for Singer Sewing Machine Threads
https://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/screw_threads

Bill

I'm off to the market now, so don't have time to look up the details, but beware connecting an old XP machine to the internet unless it has the very latest security patches.
Even well after MS stopped officially supporting XP, they deemed that one security issue was sufficiently serious that they felt it was worth releasing a final security update.

Back from the market now and the forum is still letting me edit the post
This was one of the articles on the subject
https://www.wired.com/story/microsoft-windows-xp-patch-very-bad-sign/

I think the update is still available; from what I recall, I was able to download it to a USB stick and install on each old computer from there; it that was several years ago, and I don't remember all the details.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 26/08/2023 11:36:45

If this is the correct company, you could ask them
http://aiptools.net/products

Bill

Here you go, a comparison of two models, the new No.225, which arrived a couple of days ago, and my original No.20

The No.20 seems to be about 6.5mm diameter across the knurling, whereas the 225 is about 7.1mm

Going by the catalogue screenshot on the previous page, I assume my No.20 must be pre-1968, but post 1909, when James Neill first started using Eclipse as a brand name (I think).

See also Grace's Guide
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/James_Neill_and_Co_(Sheffield)

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 24/08/2023 19:04:21

It seems John Nicolson MP has been having a run in with them recently
https://www.thenational.scot/news/23741273.snp-mp-fumes-ovo-energy-receiving-thuggish-letter/

Some of the replies on his Twitter account are interesting if you have access.

Bill

Bear in mind that the drawing relates to the original patent from 1916 (not 1956 as per my typo) and the production models of the GKN-Shardlow do differ.

Both my 1" & 25mm ones, which came in the leather cases, were stiff when they arrived here off eBay.

I didn't need to risk dismantling them, and I'd avoid it if possible, particularly as the tiny spindle in the gearbox is made of plastic.
I'd try and keep any lubricant away from there, but the main spindle thread can be oiled as normal.
Unwind the thimble almost as far as it will go, I don't think it will come all the way out without removing Nut No10, but do be careful; this should expose the adjustment collar.

edit- just checked my 1" version, and unwinding the thimble doesn't expose the adjusting collar in the way it did on my 25-50mm, so it looks like you need to remove the thimble from its taper to alter the backlash; I must have just added a couple of drips of oil down the gap without removing the thimble.
The exposed nut is Nut No10, not the backlash adjustment, so don't remove that unless you need to

As regards oil, I've taken to using Balistol Universal oil as an instrument lubricant. It's strange stuff with an odd aroma, and originates from Germany; I have ½ litre bottles as well as a spray can.
https://ballistol.co.uk/products/ballistol-universal-oil?variant=39852136366262
It claims to be OK with metal, wood, leather and plastic, so you can even use it for cleaning wooden micrometer boxes and leather cases.
I'd try and keep it away from the display end though in case it mists the windows, or strips the paint off the dials.

I did pick up a Borlotti direct reading micrometer a while ago, but by the time it arrived here, the vibration in transport meant that most of the paint had vibrated off the plastic wheels, so whilst they turned and counted OK, the display didn't show many numbers.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 24/08/2023 12:44:22

Just for info, I'm sure Jason will be aware; if you do decide to download any album photos, the original file name will be lost, as when you download a photo, the new name will just be of the form 123456.jpg
Your photo title page in the album seems to be lost, as well as any explanatory text.
Also any exif appears to have been stripped as well, and the photo will have been optimised in size for display v storage size, so likely stored at a much smaller size than you uploaded.
I've tried to download a few, just as an experiment; it doesn't seem to matter if you "Save Image as" from the main album page, or the "Show Full Size" page.
The image has the same name and size.

Bill

Reassembly

Much trial and error here, in order to get the indexing correct for workpiece length.
For this particular instrument, as you screw nut No10 into the bore, the spindle moved outwards, rather than in, presumably there is a double start thread involved, but it has the overall effect of a differential screw.

I selected a 35mm gauge block and slid the main spindle down the bore to contact it (I didn’t have one, so used a 25mm block on end; it doesn’t need to be exact, but should be close to a known measurement to allow for the differential screw compensation).
Since the spindle moves outwards, as you screw in nut No10, I pre-set the display to 55mm.
Run nut No10 down the spindle No14, but make sure the spindle doesn’t rotate, as we don’t want to alter the display from 55.0mm.

As nut No10 engages in the internal thread of the bore, the spindle will start to withdraw away from the block, so keep an eye on the engagement and re-adjust accordingly; as soon as the outer thread becomes engaged by a couple of turns, you can dispense with the block for now.

Don’t screw nut No10 fully home, though it will tighten slightly as it gets closer; I left about a 1mm gap; readjust the wear compensation sleeve ring to allow a smooth movement.
Now use the 25mm block the correct way around and advance the spindle as though you are measuring it.
It’s unlikely to read 25mm straight away, but the differential screw effect of turning nut No10 allows for fine adjustment.

I then tried several other measurements up to a 50mm block and had good repeatability.

Slide on the thimble, don’t forget the ratchet spring, with the micrometer still measuring a block, and replace the end screw, align a suitable mark, gently nip up the taper, only lightly finger tight.
I very carefully slid the block out of the way, held the thimble in some curved jaw, rubber coated pliers, and then fully tightened the end screw. I didn’t want to strain anything whilst the micrometer was still measuring a block.

I then re-measured several blocks and slightly adjusted the outer engraved sleeve to align with a mark on the thimble in the conventional manner.

I’m getting repeatability all the way, with a variety of blocks, through the range from 25-50mm to within 0.01mm, so quite happy with the final result.

There is a copy of the diagram (only) from the US patent in the same album as the photo from my earlier post on this thread.
I've just included it for ease of reading the above notes.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 23/08/2023 19:28:33

For completeness in case anyone searches for this in the future.

A Few Notes on Re-indexing a GKN-Shardlow 25-50mm Speedread Micrometer.

N.B. is isn’t an official procedure, and very much trial an error, with lots of the latter.

Please read in conjunction with the US patent for a micrometer from 1956 by Davenport.
**LINK**

A recent purchase of a good used example of this micrometer arrived with the direct reading numeric display out of sync with both the spindle and adjacent digits.

I believe Screw No.60 on the original patent diagram vibrated loose whilst the parcel was in the post
This led to an eccentric spindle, Part No.52 moving and allowing the small gear No.46 to disengage.
Unfortunately, unlike the original from 1916, this spindle is made of plastic, and also seems to have an eccentric pivot allowing an adjustment of the gears’ engagement.
Screw No 60 is the one just below and to the left of the first digit display window.

Disassembly (partial)

First I needed to partially disassemble the instrument, but fortunately I didn’t need to dismantle the gearbox or display itself.

The thimble is held on a taper at the end of the main spindle No.14 but just removing the end screw only releases the knurled adjusting collar.
N.B don’t lose the ratchet spring, and note it’s orientation before removing.

I’ve no idea how you are supposed to release the thimble from the taper without a special tool, but this worked for me; unscrew the thimble as far as it will go and wind it back in very slightly to avoid straining anything.
This exposed the collar used to compensate for thread wear, nut note that’s it’s the plain black ring with the C spanner hole, rather than the nut No.10 on which it’s mounted. I used the end of a 12” steel ruler in the gap as a lever, and the thimble pinged off without too much effort, though a mini hot air gun might help if it’s tight.

Wind the main spindle half in towards the 25mm end, and remove the nut No10, complete with the thread wear compensation ring; I loosened the ring as well so I had a better feel for what was happening. You might need to adjust the spindle in one direction or the other as the nut comes out of the main bore.
The main spindle No.14 will slide out complete with nut No10 Put the nut to one side, but note that the outer thread on it appears to be coarser than the one on the main spindle.
I think that the spindle thread might be multi-start, as when you screw the nut back in later, the spindle moves outwards.

Note the collar No34 on the spindle No.44 with the lug No. 30 and look down the bore for the groove in tube which it engages to turn the gearbox/display.

I now re-inserted the spindle, which is a sliding fit and used that to turn the inner tube/sleeve to line up the numbers on the display wheels. Gently tightening screw No60, in conjunction with rotating the plastic grub screw, locked the eccentric spindle No 52, and allowed a smooth drive to the display wheels. (The plastic screw is effectively No 54 on the patent, but slightly different in this production version)

Re-assembly to follow in the next post
Bill

To rejuvenate a very old thread, does anyone have a manual, or a knowledge of how to re-set/calibrate these mics please.
I've got a pair of imperial and metric 0-1" & 0-25mm already, which are fine, but just picked up a 25-50mm where the number readings are well off.

I also have an older 0-1" Slocomb version of the same, which was made according to the original Davenport Patent of 1916, which I've downloaded, so I assume the GKN Shardlow is similar.
https://worldwide.espacenet.com/patent/search/family/003277953/publication/US1210051A?q=US1210051A

Bill

I too assume that WF in this context is probably Whitworth Form, but when Joseph Whitworth came up with his thread dimensions, it wasn't a British Standard, though obviously later became one, along with a fine thread to become BSW & BSF, so perhaps there was a Whitworth Fine before the BS was added.
I can't find when the finer thread form was originally started.
There's an interesting article on The History of Whitworth here, which includes some info on the origin of the spanner sizes.
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/whitworth-hist.html

Interestingly JW himself proposed a thread series based on decimal, rather than fractional, which did include a 0.2" diameter, though that was in 1897, which rather predates those taps by the looks of it.
https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Miscellaneous_Papers_on_Mechanical_Subjects/A_Paper_on_Standard_Decimal_Measures_of_Length

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 21/08/2023 22:33:38

I was going to post a link to the excellent Dan Gelbart video, but came across this which has the video embeded.
The relevant part is from about 2 min 20 on
https://www.printables.com/model/58546-dan-gelbart-laser-center

I don't have a 3D printer, but it might be of interest to those who do play with them.

Bill

It might be worth pricing one up as Warco at the moment for one of their 6" centre height lathes.
They have a 15% off sale at the moment.

Bill

At least the pug hasn't overheated much.
This was on an Ebay purchase, described as tested, working and in regular use.
The centre screw was so rusted I had to use a Warrington screwdriver to get the cover off

Bill

I believe only in the forest surrounding Montallegro, on Caissa Inferiore, in the San Serriffe archipellago.

Bill

I think maybe someone has missed the point in Lee's post where he differentiates between upper and lower case B

Bill