Member postings for peak4

I know Google or similar should be my friend here, but struggling to find the right item.

I have a Gunson Superstrobe timing light for the car, but the ferrite ring on the HT pickup is cracked, so obviously doesn't work any more.

It's a square U shape and square cross section, as per the attached photos.

There is a sliding cover with a bar ferrite encapsulated to complete the magnetic circuit, and a coil round one leg of the U. I did try using a slice out of a round ferrite ring, but can't get it to work.

Anyone any thoughts for a supplier please?

I did contact Gunson, who put me in touch with their spares supplier, who in turn would only quote for a full replacement lead; Can't remember the exact price, but it was north of £50.

The U shape is dimensioned as follows;

i.e. approx 6mm x section, 16.5mm high, & 25mm wide

Edited By peak4 on 18/03/2016 12:44:03

May sound daft, but for cutting ally bar, I do sometimes use a hand hacksaw, to supplement my Manchester Rapidor.

The difference is, that rather than using a normal 12" hacksaw blade in it, I use a 12" length of bandsaw blade; holes drilled in the end with a centre drill.

Much coarser teeth and a thinner blade makes the job a lot quicker than a conventional hacksaw blade.

No it didn't, Try THIS LINK

Not Starret, but a couple of suggestions for you

**LINK**

**LINK**

**LINK**

Good Luck

I know folks who use Optimate chargers for their motorbike batteries and highly recommend them.

I just picked up a couple from Lidl, (though Aldi also have a similar one sometimes) which so a similar job for a fraction of the price.

They seem to do the business for me and go under the name of Ultimate Speed Car battery Charger ULGD 3.8A1

Several different programs depending on the battery type

uTube link HERE, but there's several others on the net

Edited By peak4 on 12/03/2016 13:36:24

Thanks Ian, I'll add to your list with "AMB Stainless" for alloy bar, and surprisingly stainless too. (not scrap box stuff, but happy to cut short lengths to order for personal visitors.)

Ian, am I correct in thinking you're in the Sheffield area?

if so, would you mind PMing me which stockholder you use.

Thanks

Bill

I'm guessing one of these **LINK**

The inner end of the collet does look different to my Clarkson ones, but the actual milling cutters look to be the standard, Clarkson type, threaded end cutters.

Looking at the price Warco charge for extra collets, I'd suggest that it might even be cheaper to buy new from them, rather than second hand off ebay if one had a Clarkson Autolock.

I actually made a metric set myself, as the Autolock chuck for the Centec only came with imperial collets.

Well to chuck in my two-pennorth, and I'm old enough for that to be 1/120 Pond or half a groat.

I can remember phoning round the local timber merchants to price up some beech for the top of a woodworking bench I was about to build, only to be told " We sell it by the metric foot now sir" It eventually transpired that they priced timber in units of 300mm, but they "Could do it by the metre; which is a bit longer than a yard".

Re. good stuff from France, apart from the calvados and cheese, Michele Mouton for me, who rather excelled in the Audi Groups B rally cars, and even set a record time for Pikes Peak.

Edited By peak4 on 25/02/2016 00:38:25

Thanks for that Emgee, That was what I assumed looking at the head. It would seem that the parallel hole in the body is a smaller diameter than the hole in the nut.

Not quite sure how long the parallel bit is in between the tapers though, and whether the tapers are straight or convex; I'm presuming straight.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:31:34

Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:36:47

Some time ago I picked up an Ackworthie Tapping Head, quite cheaply as it came without any collets; I think I gave a tenner for it.

Now I have a little more time, as I retired last year, I was going to knock some up, but have no idea what the originals looked like. I'm sure I can make something that works OK, As I've made a set of metric collets for my Clarkson milling chuck in the past, but I knew what I was trying to achieve, as I already had an imperial set.

I can't find any photos or diagrams on the net anywhere, other than this one for sale on ebay. **LINK** so at least you can see what type of head it is.

Does anyone have one the same and is able to show me either a photo or some measurements of an original collet.

Many Thanks

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 21:19:07

Maybe use your 65 tooth gear off the ML7 as a dividing pattern, with a suitable detent, and cut a replacement from a slice of cast iron?

Just to throw in something completely different; the motorcyclist's favourite for de-rusting decorative chrome etc is Coke/Pepsi rubbed in with crushed aluminium kitchen foil.

Wipe it off with paper towels and oil it immediately.

It's effectively a very gentle phosphoric acid cleaning, rubbed in with something which is both relatively hard, compared to cloth/paper, but soft compared to the iron of the bed.

It really does work.

Cheap nasty 7 or 13 core trailer cable maybe?

Just been having a look through my boxes of springs, and didn't find anything suitable. However, I did spot a windscreen wiper arm tension spring about the correct size.

How about a trip to your local car spares for one, and then stretch it suitably so make it a compression spring?

Screwfix have a couple on offer at the moment, but I've no idea how good they are.

Just had a spot of bother with my workshop/shed, which it seems has been leaking with all the heavy rain we've just had. I put a new roof on over the weekend and am running a dehumidifier I got cheap from a neighbour when he was having a house moving sale.

It pulled out quite a bit the first night, then very little. I then went down yesterday and ran a fan heater for a couple of hours. This seemed to work and the gizmo pulled a load more water out last night. It's fairly well insulated and reasonably draft proof, barring the single glazing, so with the dehumidifier generating a bit of it's own heat and the residual heat from the fan heater, it seems to work well enough.

I'm not sure I'd want to leave it running full bore all the time though for cost reasons - it seems to be rated @ 250W

How much do they work out at John.

I don't have a gearbox at the moment, but I'm likely to end up with one after I've found a new house later on in the year.

Thanks

Or you could try this outfit, who list imperial **LINK**

Certainly worth considering. I've actually got the 2B, which does the job well enough SEE HERE too.

Also, save a bit for making lead headed/faced hammers